CrawfishStu

I wound up trimming the spring a hair on the safety tang. Did exactly what I wanted. Now the tang compresses before get trigger travel but works as the safety should when you just pull the trigger.

Got any pictures of what you did? I feel like a lighter tang spring would solve everything that I am feeling but I would love to check that out.

Notes. Even with locktite, the frame screws for the sjc mount and the compensator all came loose. Put the forward set trigger kit on it. It took a lot of tweeking with the trigger bar to make it work right. I finally got it to where the reset and the break are pretty close together and work perfectly reliably. The safety tang spring is too strong. I need to adjust it a little or wear it in some. You can feel your finger come off of the trigger face and just the contact with the safety tang is letting the trigger travel to return. It's an off feeling and throw me way off from feeling the reset to click out anothe round. The "engagement" of the safety tang leaves a little to be desired. Requiring a little less pressure to activate the tang would probably help and it is hard to describe. Put your finger on the trigger. By the time you have enough pressure on the safety tang to get to the trigger face the safety tang has started to push the trigger back a little. This causes the tang to hang up on the frame as it is intended to do in the event of the trigger grabbing on something or momentum from a drop where the trigger wants to travel but the tang isn't depressed. Basically, it requires more force to push the tang in all of the way than it does to start the trigger travel. I was tired and didn't measure these amounts yet. Anyway, you get the feel of the trigger breaking when the tang catches the frame, then the trigger bottoms out, then the tang becomes depressed enough to slide over the frame and dissengage the safety function. If feels like shooting the gun. I would not make the edges softer as that might defeat the purpose of needing it to be depresses to slide over the frame and allow the trigger to be pressed. So it would seem that a lighter safety tang spring or heavier trigger spring would fix it.

I am. I am going to figure out a way to mount it to a QLS to go on my belt. You really need to locktite the screws when you get it set up. I wish the tension adjustment would go a little higher but I locks very securely with the finger lever. I wished the lever was a little longer when I started practicing but it soon felt pretty natural to flip it when drawing. I love the changeable blocks for different pistols.

A couple of things kind of came together in deciding to put together an open M&P. I decided that I wanted to give open division a try mainly because I wanted to run my Firebird MKA1919 in 3 gun comps. I'm sure I'm not alone in saying that I love owning multiple firearms, so this was probably just a gateway into owning a 2011. Before deciding to drop the money on an open pistol costing over $3k plus mags and optic, I wanted to see if I even liked having an optic on a pistol. I had recently semi retired my competition use M&P 9L from IDPA use in favor of an X5LW. I would probably have built a standard length M&P but, both of the 9mm ones that I owned were 5" guns. I figured if I really loved it, I would wind up with a bunch of parts that could be moved over to a shorter M&P save the barrel. The optic could even be used on a different pistol and most of the parts sold off if needed From my IDPA setup: M&P9L Apex CAEK TFO Sights Pachmayr Grip Reversed Mag Release Added: Carver 4 Port Comp Storm Lake Threaded Barrel Springer Precision EZ Slide Racker Speed Shooter Specialties Black Brass Magwell Speed Shooter Specialties Brass Magwell Stud Speed Shooter Specialties Tungsten Non Captured Guide Rod 13lbs Spring SJC CMore Mount 6 MOA CMore TF 170mm Mag Extensions I have the Carver mount and it would not work with the DAA Race Master holster. Nor did I like the height of the optic. Nor did I like how loose it fit. I was a little nervous about the permanent modification of the M&P frame to mount the SJC but it is extremely nice, solid, and the low mount of the CMore is just ideal. The Carver mount is easier to take apart/remove for cleaning etc and has a blast shield. But, it just really didn't seem up to what I wanted to do with it or to my personal preferences. The SJC also clears the ejection port completely so there are zero worries about ejection issues caused by the mount or optic. The slide racker was meant to work with the Carver mount. It isn't ideal with the SJC mount. I didn't have an issue with it at the comp I shot with it but I'm sure it would shave a little off to have it in a different position. It is a nice product. It just doesn't fit this application perfectly. I'm impressed with the CMore. The range of brightness is great. With the SJC mount, it points very naturally and is easy to pick up in the natural movement of pushing the pistol to the target. In a pistol that I have shot 10k rounds through, it just still felt pretty natural. It is much heavier. So, it is not the same and drawing from the DAA is going to take a little tweaking to get used to. Overall impressions: I like open. I like a lot about this setup but would make some changes that may or may not be achievable with an M&P. Though, it is probably better than I ever will be able to shoot it anyway. I like the optic, optic mount, holster, comp, magwell, capacity, reversed mag release, ease of part fitment, replacement part availability, overall cost, and lack of muzzle rise. It's fun to shoot. I don't like the trigger, drilling holes in a plastic pistol, the overall length of the pistol, or the slide racker. I was pretty happy with the trigger for IDPA. That was before the X5 and a gunsmithed loaded target SA1911. The mastershop trigger on the X5 for competition has spoiled me a bit. Moving to a pistol that stays on target and really wants to test how fast you can double tap is a little beyond what this trigger does. I have an Apex Foward Set Trigger that was going to be put in another pistol that may wind up in this one to see how much of a difference it makes. I would also really like to have the slide cut up to see what kind of difference that it makes but it starts to add up. At what point do you cut it off and step up to a 2011? I probably have about $1700 into the package already with the original pistol and the mags I used for the extensions. While this is way shy of what a 2011 setup with mags would cost, we are not exactly comparing apple to apples. It was fun to put together and is fun to shoot. I'm glad I gave it a shot. As for the results of the first comp I ran with it, It was a 3 man 3 gun competition and about 2/3 of the way through the match I tossed it in a bucket on top of another shooters pistol for my first ever DQ. This pistol was impressive though and ran with zero issues.

I think they are nice products. The variences I felt seemed to be from the mags or the use of the mags bending and banging them around slightly.

Make sure you load the mags up and see that they hold the extra rounds. There is a commonish issue where the back ledge catches the follower. All 4 of mine did it. The fix is in the instructions.

Just a note because I had seen this thread when looking for a holster. The DAA RaceMaster will not fit the Carver M&P mount.

This was actually from my post on the FN forums when I first did it. It has held up great. I beveled it just a hair in the middle so it would let high brass slide in with no catching. The clearances and tolerances are pretty tight. You don't have much room in front of the fork and you don't have much room under the fork. It goes up just far enough for shell to clear.

I used a hard set epoxy, prepped the surface, and let it set nice and hard. Then began shaping and sanding. It still needs a little work/filling/sanding but I test fit it and I like it a lot. Feeds dummy shells perfectly into the tube and the gun. I could have/would have done a better job on the holes if I knew I was going to use them at the time like I did. But since I was going to just use a dremel to cut the slot out.....I didn't bother getting them anything other than straight.

I run a storm lake 40 to 9 barrel in my Core Pro Long. I did check out the fit of my 9L barrel into the 40L slide. Did not shoot it. I remember several tolerances that I mic'd out being different. What would cause the lack of lock up at an empty mag?

Put mine on my open m&p build. It's quite nice and I like that it doesn't replace the rear sight should I need to pull the optic in case it dies.

I've been stalking the forum for a long time. It comes up in a lot of searches for comp gear, modifications, etc. Finally logged in. I've only been shooting competitively in IDPA and 3 Gun for a couple of years. I was bitten by the bug pretty hard and will shoot everything from SSR to Open 3 Gun. It's a nice hobby and I enjoy doing it with my friends. Just wanted to introduce myself before I started posting. Same username on Pirate4x4, MDShooters, Saiga-12.com, etc. Joseph "Stu" from MD.