longbeard
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Posts posted by longbeard
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Taccom works great and won't break the bank. Also about the lightest there is.
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Post a picture
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Curious about your thoughts between your MPX and AR9. Is there a significant enough difference as to think the MPX has a competitive advantage?
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Nice lookin' rig!
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To the best of my knowledge you want to use an AR9 firing pin.
http://www.primaryarms.com/cmmg-ar-9-firing-pin-for-9mm-ar-rifles-90ba4d7
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3 hours ago, stick said:
Here are two results. The top set is from a 16" AR, The bottom is from a Taccom ULW Barrel.
Bullet Brand Everglades Bullet Type Round Nose Bullet Weight 147gr Powder Name Titegroup Powder Weight 3.0gr Primer Federal COL 1.130-1.135 Average Chronograph Speed 973.9 Standard Deviation 52.48 Chronograph Speed Low/High 890 1033 Power Factor 143 Bullet Brand Rocky Mountain Bullet Type Round Nose Bullet Weight 147gr Powder Name Titegroup Powder Weight 3.0gr Primer CCI COL 1.130-1.135 Average Chronograph Speed 890 Standard Deviation 8.86 Chronograph Speed Low/High 877 903 Power Factor 130 This seems inline with what I have now. I'm roughly 100fps difference between ULW and 16". Not too far off your results.
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6 minutes ago, troupe said:
I run a MPX hand/barricade stop on my AR. I hook my index finger around it at the start and I can pull the rifle back into me. Works for me and my finger is not at the muzzle. Offers better control.
I think this a must for an SBR.
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I started having malfunctions a while back. It took a few days before I discovered the receiver-installed feed ramp from Taccom (which is great) had some wiggle in it. If you use this device make sure you check it frequently. Mine was epoxied in and lasted over 10K rounds.
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Go with the AR platform. Tons of support. Tons of parts availability. Scorpion is a neat gun and definitely fine for casual PCC shooting, but if you plan to compete I think you'll want an AR 9.
I would also recommend a 16" upper. SBR are definitely cool, tactical is not always practical in competition. Having the long barrel allows you to firmly plant that stock into the shoulder which will tighten your groups. Also, getting in and out of position with an SBR configuration always bothers me. Easier to sweep yourself.
OP. I think we shoot together at Friday Night Steel. If so come check out my rigs next week.
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30 minutes ago, JAFO said:
I like the barney mag idea. Do you download your first mag as well? I think I'd be more worried about the mag not seating properly on a closed bolt than I would be about the first round not loading. I fear the dreaded "bang, thud" as the first round fires and a fully loaded 47-rd mag hits the ground shortly after.
I think downloading would defeat the purpose of the barney round.
My DP base pad does +7. I always barney one first to start with 39. With new springs it's very tough to load the stuffed mag with a barney round. You can clip 1/2 a coil and get a little relief. As far as it dropping out. I make sure it's seated securely by slamming it in and gently tugging.
I also always take a peek into the chamber as the last step in my make ready.
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I'd go with the Hiperfire. Good support. Great trigger. I like the 24c.
That being said I like the JP trigger best, but it can be a bit finicky.
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5 hours ago, Franimal said:
I have a Glock mag with a TF extension (42 capacity). Jams on the 1st or 2nd shot and when I only load 30-34 it cycles fine. I tried manual cycling with 42 rounds and it cycles fine. Hope someone can enlighten me lol this is my first build btw.
Typically caused by so much mag spring tension that the bullets are nosing up. Are you using a round nose bullet profile?
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1 minute ago, JAFO said:
NFA seems to believe it's the strike angle of the hammer on the pin (from their website)...
"**NOTE: Many Aftermarket drop in triggers use modified hammers which may not reset properly, or hit the firing pin square on the carrier which could cause firing pins to bind and snap. We recommend using only MILSPEC hammers with any 9mm, .40, or .45 blow back bolt carrier groups."
That's gotta be what's going on. A sharpie and some dry fire should show this. I may try later. Curious....
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Most seem to be made of tool steel. The upscale ones are stainless steel. How they are made I do not know. The tool steel ones I had all broke in the middle. The stainless one broke off at the head. Makes me think that they are being flexed by either being too long like when you bow a stick into the ground. The harder steel broke at its weakest point (the joint at the top) while the softer steel just fractures in the middle.
Thoughts?
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5 minutes ago, MikieM said:
Faxon has been out of Gen II bolts for sometime now. I emailed them and asked when a new batch might be available. They have been strangely silent.
Do you suppose they are trying to remedy the problem, or are they just behind in manufacturing.
I was discussing this subject with one of our local gunsmith's, at our last match. His opinion was that frequent firing pin breakage was part of the price to be paid when using the AR platform for something it was never designed for. He may have a point, but I think a better mouse trap can be had.
What exactly is causing the breakage? I've seen speculation on this forum, but do we know for sure?
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18 hours ago, Darqusoull13 said:
I run JP bolts
Crap! Now I gotta sell everything to buy JP bolts so I can use JP firing pins!
This game... I swear!
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1 hour ago, Darqusoull13 said:
Here's the advice I give folks. Buy the JP firing pin. The new design should last well over 20,000 rounds. Once you get to 20,000 rounds on that pin, swap to a new firing pin if you feel like it. They are a $15 part.
Don't gamble your match fee, hotel, travel and ammo budget for a major match on a brand of part that is being reported to break at less than 5,000 rounds. $15 is cheap insurance
I thought they were only for JP bolts?
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6 minutes ago, 01svtL said:
Legality reasons? Too much ambiguity and not wanting to even be involved with the ATF and what someone's intentions were etc, huh? Just avoid it altogether? I would completely understand this viewpoint.
I suspect it has more to do with keeping the division on a level playing field.
I would recommend that as a new competitor you get into a 16" carbine. To be candid, I have some seen some SBR configurations that I deem less than ideal for some of the handling requirements in USPSA. You'll want plenty of room out front to mount that gun safely coming into a position. Being wary of not sweeping yourself with an SBR (or worse) is a headache a new competitor doesn't need. There's a lot going on at once when you first start.
Once you are adept if you want to SBR your PCC you will have a good understanding of what might suit you best.
My .02
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2 hours ago, alanm said:
What firing pin brand are you guys running that you have had the most luck with not breaking? I’m at the JP PCC championship and had my taccom firing pin break on the very first stage. Got a big fat zero for that one. Anybody try the Wilson bulletproof firing pins?
Feel your pain. My Taccom sheared off at the top within 2k rounds.
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15 minutes ago, robert3405 said:
So I took my PSA 9mm PCC down for a good cleaning last night. When I went to reassemble the bolt I had a total brain fart. On my other AR15's there is no firing pin spring, of course, so the retainer pin goes in a little different. I put it back together with the retainer pin holding the firing pin in under slight pressure of the firing pin spring. I think this is correct? I feel like an idiot for asking this question.
Spring goes in. Firing pin goes in next. Your pin has a circular lip at the top of it (depending what brand it may vary how it looks). You depress the firing pin with your finger to get the lip below the retaining pin hole and insert the retaining pin. When you are done you release the firing pin and the retaining pin will hold the entire firing pin in place because the circular lip cannot pass the retaining pin.
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Stoned out the flaw. Gave it a good cleaning and light polish, and reinstalled. I'm taking a quick video of the timing for reference this time. One more time and it's time for something else!
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Used to have yellow, and it stopped being reliable even after a new spring replacement a few months ago.You might flatten out the top of the sear to see if the "nick" is forcing the sear to ride a little lower on the bottom of the hammer. With how little clearance we have between the disconnector and the hammer, it would not take much to cause the problem that you are having.
Not sure that you have the yellow spring on that hammer (not that it has anything to do with your problem) and that could lighten the pull some.
I'm going to call and talk to them, but suspect it might be time to replace it. It's got a good 20k on it which really shouldn't be much.
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2 hours ago, L9X25 said:
It just proves my point ... cleaning is over-rated!
I get lazy with cleaning the AR, and just resort to blasting it with brake cleaner and then lubing it back up (not taking anything apart).
That usually works, but crud can build up on the bottom of the trigger and hammer and that area is not hit by the brake clean. From time to time, when I feel the travel decreasing, I have to pull the pins and clean the trigger thoroughly. My powder builds up and can get the consistency of concrete in places not reached with the solvent.
No crud to be found
I did find the sear has a nick and the hammer has worn unevenly. It's a QC lower. I can't imagine the pin holes are off.
Whether this is the cause of my issues or not I am not sure. There are over 10K rounds on this trigger I expect wear. Not sure to what extent.
The ding in the sear makes me think at some point something got caught in there, but I don't think it's from whatever happened lately.
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6 minutes ago, L9X25 said:
I clean my guns every 10 years, or when they stop working, so you will get no judgement from me.
LOL!
I cleaned it Saturday. It failed Sunday. What's that tell ya?!
Pcc handguard recommendations taccom
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
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