longbeard
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Posts posted by longbeard
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Blitzkrieg Buffer.
A full length barrel. JP/KVP/Shooting Innovations
Taccom Extreme bolt.
You'll get much smoother performance if you avoid ULW barrels which require hotter loads and have a sharper impulse compared to a 14-16" barrel.
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As stated above. Depends on the game. USPSA for me, I sight in @ 15 yards. I use target sticker spots on a USPSA cardboard target. I use a table and set my range bag on it. I use my bag as a rest for the muzzle. Free hand works as well.
After that I would record hold overs as you move in every 5 yards. It's roughly a 1/2" every 5 yards.
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Try Alliant Sport Pistol.
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Ejector is the first thing to check. Make sure it's not hanging up the bolt.
Maybe remove the lrbho as well.
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Less about price than what works. AR9 has his gap between the mag and the chamber that causes feeding issues. Particularly when u add a high cap mag that changes the bullet angle. This is why you see things like ramped barrels.Really? I never noticed I allways go cheap on the lower care to explain? sounds sarcastic but im actually curious
There's no mil spec on this. Different lowers do it differently. QC10/JP have it down. The others are hit or miss.
Truth is the AR 9 platform is sort of a mess. Jams, breaking "gas keys", ejector issues, broken firing pins. Most of the things recommended by regulars on this form can save a lot of frustration.
Entirely possible to have a flawless PCC. Just takes the right combination of parts.
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4 minutes ago, DannyBoyy said:
Would you vote a for:
a new frontier 290
https://www.newfrontierarmory.com/shop/complete-c-5-lower-b5-milspec-stock/
or a fox trot mike 299
https://www.newfrontierarmory.com/shop/complete-c-5-lower-b5-milspec-stock/
or is there a solid other choice that offers LRBHO?
or this complete rifle?
I would strongly steer you towards a QC10 lower. They are terrific, and have the mag angle correct. It's a proven lower on this forum time and time again.
Yes, you will spend another $75 to get a lower parts kit from somewhere, but it will be worth frustration saved due to potential feeding issues from other lowers.
They currently have blems for $242.50
As far as a LRBHO. I just remove mine. If you're shooting a high-cap PCC I'm not sure what purpose it serves to have one. It's just more mechanicals to potentially malfunction.
Good luck!
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I ordered the BCM upgraded spring kit. I DO NOT recommend using it. To stiff.. Stay with milspec. I used the O-ring. Feels fine.
After 20K rounds, my extractor still looks great. No issues.
What is the pin? I ordered a standard AR extractor pin. It doesn't appear to be the same as what is in this bolt.
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Anderson. $47. Look around. Some places carry them a little cheaper sometimes.
https://www.andersonmanufacturing.com/product/no-forward-assist-no-dust-cover-upper-reciever/
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As Homie said. It's not going flat.
If you look on the blitzkrieg website you'll see they recommend 308 rifle for full length barrels and carbine for shorter. You'll be fine with either. I use a carbine 308 with my setup.
If there was a concern, it would be using the carbine in a rifle length tube which would be too short.
Also,
.223 is technically a weaker spring than 308 so you're actually moving up in weight from what you currently use.
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Lots of tools to use when it comes to starts. I switch out depending on distance and sight picture. 7 yards and under I use the muzzle pointed at A zone, and bring stock up to shoulder. It's the equivalent of point shooting from a pistol draw. Just lift up the stock and pull the trigger.
Longer shots/better sight pictures I keep a more level from the belt position and pull the gun up to the weld ready to shoot. Make a mental note to keep the muzzle low and try and just put the dot right where you are looking.
Live fire. 15yd. head shot draw from belt: .85 consistent is what I strive for. Faster sometimes, yes. Slower, yes... Looking for my consistent time though, not my best time. We can all sit out on a drill and run it 20 times to get a nice social media time (Guilty!). Better to know what you can do cold.
10 yd. full A zone from belt .65 consistent.
Index shot 7 yd. and under. Muzzle pointed at A zone is slightly quicker. I never really practice it anymore.
Above got to me GM by simply showing up and shooting classifiers. Not much of an achievement in USPSA unfortunately. Although, better since the updates.
An interesting exercise.. Practice laser hip shots and see what it takes to just hear the timer and pull the trigger. Gives you an idea of reaction time.
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I use the Coda Evolution. 1.85"
Rock solid mounting. Barrel nut. Followed by a trunnion that the CF slides on.. Love it.
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Used to race offroad RC cars, and we would tune shocks with pistons and fluid. It was much easier to see what we called "pack" by holding the 10 lb. car and dropping it. The more the pack, the less that initial drop made the shocks move. You could work the shocks by hand, but never see it in action until you dropped it.
Theoretically, the harder and faster the blow to the plunger, the more the initial dampening effect. Not a linear equation really, but that's the idea. Initial jolt absorbs the brunt and the rest of the travel smooths it out. IMO. That's what a hydraulic has over a spring which in my mind is more linear (and predictable). Not sure how you would visibly see this without special equipment on these buffers.
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6 moa in cmore is a pretty established PCC size. Plenty bright on a sunny day. Be sure to buy extra batteries. I toss mine at 2.6 volts. Cmore dots eat batteries.Thank you everyone, your feedback has been incredibly helpful in guiding my decision making.
I've selected most of the parts and they are on their way, last thing is the red dot, I might wait on it until I have received all the parts.
So it's between the Holosun and C-More. The C-More 4 MOA can be found for $185 and I think that's a great bargain, so I'm more likely to go with that option. The only thing is that I'm not sure what MOA dot will work best. Planning to try some out next time I'm at the range.
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Really recommend you go with one of the PCC buffer systems. For reference they are 6oz buffers.Thank you JsK and longbeard that was extremely helpful. I think that I'll probably go the standard barrel route and keep the QC10 bolt.
My biggest concern is the buffer assembly, if I just go with the standard buffer, how do I calculate the proper weight given the ammunition shooting, length of barrel, weight of bolt, etc?
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1 hour ago, JsK said:
C-more- yes, great pistol/uspsa match optic. If your planning on shooting beyond 50 yards there are better and cheaper options.
The foam handguard works with the ULW barrel system from taccom not the tension barrel. If you really like that style setup I would just get the whole taccom upper and keep your other bolt for a spare.
If you decide to build an upper with a standard barrel ( shooters inovation is my suggestion) then the taccom carbon handguard is a great option.
Finally if your gonna shoot factory ammo your giving up one of the biggest tuning aids for your pcc. Nothing against the taccom system but with factory ammo I would spend my money other places and just get a standard 9mm buffer and a sprinco or JP spring. Short stroke it with a cheap plastic spacer( not quarters) and shoot it until you start reloading.
Agreed on all counts. If you were going to go Taccom ULW you're best bet is the whole upper IMO. I'd go the full barrel direction unless you can cancel the QC10 bolt. (Always good to have a spare too)
Additional options:
Optic: Holosun 510c
Odin Works makes a popular rail that many on here use. Can't recall what it is, but should be easy to find. Note the Taccom CF has no way to attach things if that's important.
Blitzkrieg buffer with JP 308 spring.
Trigger: Hiperfire 24c or similar. With PCC stick with a trigger that is well-known to work.
Have fun!
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Love mine.
As far as ETS. I cannot make mine work with any extended base pad. The bullets hang and dont get picked up or they end up coming out nose up. I have zero issues with factory stuff.
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Probably going to vary by sport. I shoot uspsa. Cr speed race belt. I keep two cr speed mag pouches in the production position for classifiers at 9 o'clock. This is my preferred reload position.
I have a coda under the belly button at at a cant with a 36 round big stick. I shot with the coda guys and they suggested this.
I go the line with my tti 42 in a pocket or one of the side pouches.
I secure the belt behind me.
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Looking for some big stick factory mags. Anyone seen a good deal anywhere?
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A note on the shoulder switching... Dont forget to practice switching after doing a reload. Pretty common classifier situation
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https://rg4arms.com/holosun-he510c-gr-reflex-sight-circle-dot-grn/
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I think he meant ejector which should be flush against the bolt.
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Build Recipe for 2019 - Please Help!
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Second the trigger. JP is dead simple. Hiperfire has more parts. And, on top of beating the firing pin to death the springs forms a real nice cage to capture debris. Not ideal for a blowback gun IMO. I had mine fail more than once due to this. Further, should you ever "wear out" a JP. They will replace it for $35.