longbeard
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Posts posted by longbeard
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LOL. Can of worms on here. Personally, I would buy neither. I would build my own AR9, but if you don't want to do that I would say a JP. Many argue that a Sig is softer shooting, but you have many more tuning options with an AR 9. Particularly with JP's bolt and buffer system.
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Thanks all. I'll go with a Midway bag.
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Anyone have one of these and also have an offset optic or side mounted rail laser? I've seen a lot of guys here who recommend them, I just want to make sure it will actually accommodate offset items.
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Situational. You will need to use all three approaches depending on what you are trying to negotiate and what direction you are moving. If you have to break grip and really move, I like the buttstock above shoulder. This works well for weak side movement as well as many times moving weak side with both hands risks a 180. A lot of times moving forward or strong side you can keep grip. For a few steps I try not to drop the muzzle at all. For longer steps I drop the muzzle, but keep the stock on the shoulder.
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Field course shooting uses the same principles regardless of the platform. Biggest difference is you will need to learn how to handle a 7# broomstick while moving. Learn how to move to your weak side and backwards. You'll have similar stage plans as open shooters. Don't think sitting back and picking off targets is faster than moving and engaging. It's not.
The fundamentals will get you far.
Grip. You want a good planted shoulder mount or your second shot will drift. Get this habit now. I'm still battling "soft shouldering" after a few seasons.
Gun up. Come in ready to shoot. Keep the stock glued to the shoulder. You save the most time here.
Balance/Stability. How much do you need for the position.
Have fun!
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I spent hours on this once. Then I grabbed a dental tool and it popped right out.
Stepped brass is a problem with AR9. FM, Ammoland, IMT head stamps all separate like what you described. Best to sort those out.
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Congrats! Welcome the club.
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20 hours ago, mark2734 said:
I've been following this because I'm gathering parts for a build. I plan to use a conversion block in a standard AR receive, largely because I have several and buying a dedicated AR9 receiver in the communist nation of California is a head ache.
Anyway has anyone tried the new setup offered by Taccom? Seems they found the smily spring too.
https://taccom3g.com/product/taccom-short-stroke-upgrade-kit/
I have one, but it's my backup. I bought mine before their short stroke kit. I short stroke it with a smalley still, but put the smalley in the bottom of my tube with a quarter.
It's a much harsher felt recoil than the Blitzkrieg this way, but patterns about the same on paper. I've considered switching to it completely as it's pretty fail-proof compared to a hydraulic buffer. I wish Tim would sell a spring tuning kit for the internal spring.
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1 hour ago, RaylanGivens said:
I think I have a similar situation... I seem to be spending a little extra time making sure the safety is completely off during the draw... Thinking that not pressing the safety lever completely vertical might make it easier, faster to get it completely off consistently... Just a flip instead of a complete 90 degree turn.
What you are describing doesn't sound like a well-functioning safety. It shouldn't be difficult to flip off. Are you positive it doesn't need tuned a bit? My JP requires some oil from time to time.
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8 minutes ago, xtian999 said:
I bought a Ruger 10/22 type carbine to shoot local steel matches. I say “type” because it is a Brownell’s 10/22 pistol receiver with a Ruger SR-22/Nordic system. I bought it so that I could use the new Ruger BX-25 rd. mags and finish a round w/o a mag change. So far, the BX-25 mags have been a letdown. They jam frequently and are basically useless. The 10 rd factory mags work flawlessly with any ammo, so I assume that the problem is with the 25 rounders, not the gun or the ammo.
Anyone here have the same problems with the new BX-25’s?
I have issues as well.
Currently using duct tape to tighten the fit of the magazine. Pretty well documented fix if you Google it. I haven't shot enough with the "fix" to prove it.
Also,
This forum is more geared towards 9MM carbines You might get some better info elsewhere if you don't get what you're looking for here.
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Whatever you use for your pistol loads will work fine as it's a similar barrel length.
Plated/Coated bullets are not recommended for the ULW. The shroud will accumulate crud and eventually you'll end up deflecting bullets. I know this from experience. You can find info on various cleaning approaches on this forum, but best to use FMJ and save yourself the aggravation.
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After lots of tinkering I believe that Titegroup + coated bullets = leading. I now use Sport Pistol and Blue Bullets. No leading whatsoever.
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34 minutes ago, tha1000 said:
Do you need the buffer spring detent for the taccom unit? It's not captured, correct?
Detente is only there for convenience in disassembling gun. Often times is inconvenient. Many do away with it.
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A plug for Coda Evolution as well. Very stable mounting system.
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The answer is yes, it will improve your felt recoil. Yes, short stroking helps.
There are two main systems most use. One is the Taccom. The other is the Blitzkrieg. There's a wealth of information in this forum about both.
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There's no absolutes here. It's possible to spend your days constantly tinkering with a spring or a weight or a load and "testing". I think this basically comes down to two approaches.
Snappy charge with snappy dot return.
Light charge with little dot movement.
I like the latter, but have shot both. My .02 is a higher charge benefits from a heavier stroke to help absorb the energy. I also think the weight was added to protect the buffer because so many were breaking. Love my Blitzkrieg, but I have Taccom one as a backup because I expect the Blitkrieg to fail eventually.
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1 minute ago, DKorn said:
Maybe that’s not uncommon in some areas. Locally to me, the USPSA matches all limit themselves to 32 rounds except for a couple of specific “monster” matches at the end of the year.
When you say +5/+10, etc. what magazines are you referring to? 33+10/5 and 17+5 round glock mags? Personally I shoot a Scorpion so my stock mags are 20 or 30 rounds before I add extensions or splices.
31 +10
31 +5
17 +5 for classifiers and such
I would go with a +10 big stick. It'll get you through most things, but one day you might hit a 38 round stage, take a few make-ups and run out. You don't want to run out of ammo with PCC. People will make fun of you to no end (sarcasm).
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24 minutes ago, DKorn said:
USPSA PCC Shooters- we all know that one of the biggest advantages in shooting PCC division is the ability to run extended magazines that avoid having to reload on field courses.
Not having enough capacity obviously gives up a lot to your competitors since you’ll have to reload and they won’t.
In your experience and opinion, what capacity is enough to avoid having to reload on 32 round stages, and avoid having to shoot more conservatively to avoid reloads?
35? 40? 45? 50? More?
It's not uncommon to show up and see 36-40 round stages at a local match so you want to be able to handle that.
I have a +10 I use almost exclusively, and I carry a +5 big stick on my belt as a back-up. I carry two +5 standard mags for use on classifiers.
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You can shoot with anything of course, and they are neat guns, but as far as competition goes they're not real popular. An AR9 from PSA would be a competitive price point and offer some customization if you wanted to tinker with it. You'll find a lot of us did the PSA thing once, and ended up jumping in and buying nicer equipment.
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Ideally its straight back into body as firm as you can get it. Not in the shoulder pocket. More towards the sternum so you can avoid rolling your head to see the dot.
I use skate tape on my rail to get a good grip. Trigger hand isn't over gripped at all. Play with the rearwards tension. You will see a difference in your splits spread.
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For something that filthy....
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner to start. You can flush a lot out with a nice constant spray. Follow by using compressed air to blow it out.
Follow up with CLP and let it soak for a while. Take a cheap tooth brush and scrub a bit. Use the air compressor again. You will want to lubricate with oil after using brake cleaner.
Probably best to keep up on PCC cleaning. They are filthy beasts.
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27 minutes ago, RaylanGivens said:
Using a Holosun 510c for my main optic... Thinking about adding a laser using the TruGlo 45 degree mount... Which mount did you use?
I have a Taccom carbon fiber hand guard, so mounting anything on the handguard is a no go for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RSMZGC0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works well with a little loctite. Only complaint is unloaded starts I sometimes gouge a finger on the set screw.
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I run a laser in the offset position behind my Holosun.
I'm considering moving to the front of the gun, but on the side of the rail vs. the top. Thinking this could be useful for shooting through skinny ports where hold overs can get dicey
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A CZ will get be able to get a much better trigger since it's a hammer and sear based gun. You'll be able to get custom grips as well. It will also make you have to fire your first shot double action.
That being said. I doubt you can go wrong with the Walther.
22/45 Lite Mark IV Internals Advice
in Ruger
Posted
I have one on the way along with the Volquartsen trigger. Should I be looking at replacing the firing pin and/or extractor with TK or VQ parts for reliability?
Thanks