cvincent
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Posts posted by cvincent
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Initially I was thinking an ammo issue since factory rounds worked fine. I did try the TTI extension on the “bad” mag body when swapping your extension, those rounds exhibited some lethargy as well , that 100% confirms that its a mag issue.
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Load the mag with 40 rounds.......strip out the first 5 rounds. If they move up slow......the mag is not a good mag for an extension. It could be too fat, too much flash, ect.
This past summer, I put 4 mags together and to this day, they still run 100%. The bad news is......I used 6 magazines, that all loaded 33 rounds perfectly. The 2 magazines that would not work with the extensions......are in my bag and I use for classifiers.
Bottom line......and this is not only with our extension, but pretty much any extension that will give you 40 rounds or more........not all glock magazines are created equal. they have multiple molds for the bodies and lets face it......the magazine was not designed to feed thru the bottom.
Try another magazine........in fact, try it with the mag that you have the TTI extension on.
One thing i did do to one of my extensions as it was soooooooo close to running. The mag was just a little 'fat' and I found that out when I loosened the screws. I took and sanded the body and bottom lips a tad and boom!!......worked like the other 3.
That’s exactly what was happening. The rounds moving up slow while being stripped by hand. I did try loosening up the screws significantly, after reading your posts on the mag splices. No dice. However, after swapping mag bodies with the TTI mag, it seems to work perfectly. Will have to test in live fire, but looks promising. Probably ought to pick up a few more 33 rounders. Thanks TRUBL.
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1.200” seems pretty long for a Glock mag..
I just tried 124 gr aguila factory ammo measures 1.146”. It seems ok. Doesn’t look like the OAL is the issue. The acme reloads work fine in a 33 rounder with a TTI +10 base pad..
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Brand new factory 33round mag. The follower and magazine have been blended and chamfered to what I believe to be sufficient. I’m having issues with spring binding when loading it up to 55 round capacity, with my reloads, 124gr Acme RN. Starts to bind as the follower enters the extension at about 33 rounds or so. It does not seem to bind with factory 115gr FMJ. I’ve reduced OAL to at or below the factory ammo that works (1.115”). Still binding. The only other variable that I see is the Bullet profile and diameter. Any suggestions or proven Bullet profiles?
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Make sure the bearings and clip is in the proper holes for the length of Bullet being used. Also make sure there is no side load on the spring/dropper assembly, and that the dropper moves up and down freely. If all that fails you could use the rubber band or spring to return the dropper to the down position.
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shot a .431” 5 shot group with Faxon Pencil barreled AR. Front and rear bags at 100 yards. 21.9 gr of 8208. 73 gr elds. LC brass. ~ 2.250” oal. Processed on a 650. Avg 2515 FPS.
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I quit case gauging all together. The rounds that failed the hundo, even the failures that failed case rim down, worked fine in both my infinity and edge. I check the rounds for flipped primer or shaved Bullets as I’m loading mags. Thousands and thousands of rounds later, no malfunctions. Dillon size die, MBF powder funnel, Redding comp seat die, Lee FCD. Mark 7, 650. Even police range glocked brass. Case gauging really sucks. Try to eliminate it, IMO.
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I have a mark 7 for 650. I think I only have access to 650 and 1050 autodrive forums. I don’t see any posts regarding evolution or revolution. It seems they are limiting those forums to actual users as well. Anyway, no one seems to use the forum anyway. There’s like 20 posts and mostly from M7. Maybe the Rev and Evo forums are more active, I don’t know.
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Also, I doubt static electricity is an issue. In my quest to make an alarm for the primer wheel not indexing , I connected a 9volt battery directly to a live primer and it did nothing to the primer but pass the current through it.
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Winchester white box was 930-940 fps out of my infinity 5”.
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Check this. Pretty common issue with .40.
https://www.shockbottle.com/faqs-1
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Are the JP triggers working with QC10 glock receivers and bolts?
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Hmmmmmm I don’t know if any of those will cycle An AR.
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What inconsistency?
I’ve loaded Prima V with an unmodified powder measure on a 650 for a year straight. The Standard Deviation on my last chrono test was 1.62, which I didn’t believe would be possible.
It’s always shown an SD under 6.
How many rounds? The best I’ve gotten is 7.6 with 15 shots of vv320
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Do the bulletfeeder for now. It will make a huge difference. It’s worth the money no doubt. For a press that was never designed for automation and made of plastic and recycled natty ice cans, mark7 works very well.
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Bulletfeeder And mark7 for the 650
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Same. Brass juice or One shot. Don’t worry about removing it. The Dillon lube is not necessary for pistol IMO. I use lots of Dillon lube for rifle. But I wet tumble after processing to get it off. Too sticky for me.
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I don’t even think twice. Or look at lot numbers. Same powder, dump it in.
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I believe the newest version does not have the zinc plate. The new version also has a plastic block thing inside the bowl to the right of the output hole. Also an adjustable slider shim thing on the output hole. If any of that makes sense......
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That thing looks sweet!
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Post a video
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Why buy an evolution with an autodrive and primer collator vs. buying a revolution?
Just curious..
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I asked a guy that I shoot with, that works at Dillon, only thing he told me is that the R&D dept still has it under wraps. I inquired on a price point, he didn’t know, but sounds like it might not be an attractive price.
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You can also remove the failsafe rod from powder measure. Hold a case to powder funnel and actuate the powder measure by hand to drop charges.
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Switching from 180gr to 200gr.
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted
For what it’s worth, I once made some minor 180s and it felt sluggish in a tanfo with an 8 lb recoil spring. Didn’t like it at all. Now in an Infinity i shoot 180s for major and just swapped in some 140s with the same powder charge for steel. The difference is noticeable, same 11lb recoil spring, but not like holy cow that’s super soft noticeable. I chrono’d them and was in the high 700s I think. If I was to make a load for a major all steel match, I would drop the powder charge and probably stick a lighter recoil spring in. Then again I couldn’t get the 140s to feed in the MBF at all...
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