gmich

I didn't mean to imply I discovered some unique method. As with most things returning to the basic is all we need. I just wanted to point out that you can get more use from a Chrono by using it rather than not using it because of fear of shooting the box. (another obvious statement) Simple but effective precautions can get you shooting and enjoying. Just don't skip the very basic ideas and you are good to go. As I learned, you can only forfeit these methods for so long before your number is up, or in the case of a Chrono not up. The 223 is small enough it should self center in almost any chamber and allow for a method to avoid hitting the box. Usually I just look down the bore or place a 2.5" block of wood on the front top edge of the box. Then I sight in for the to[p of that block. Since most scopes are 1.5" above the bore, you can be assured that if you are sighting in on something 2.5 to 3" high you will miss the box by at least and inch. Of course the block falls down from the blast as the bullet screams by but that is hardly an issue. Enjoy yourself, that’s what it’s all about either way.

If you are worried about shooting your chronograph, there are steps you can take. After 15 years I finally caught the edge of mine and spent $50 getting it back in order. One time ignoring my safety precautions was all it took. Here is what works for me...if I do it. Bolt action guns, I remove the bolt with the gun on sandbags sighted into the target. Look thru the bore. If you don’t see your chronograph its all good. OR… if you don’t have a bolt then buy a cartridge laser sight tool. Get one small enough to fit into most chambers, a 243 works good. Align it so your beam shoots down and out the barrel. Hold a white card in front of the chronograph, if you see the dot on the card you can easily determine if the dot would line up on the chronograph or over the chronograph. Really simple, so simple you will get lazy one of these years and blast the carp put of your Pro Chrono. No need to ever dust it if your careful and there is no need to ever own a chronograph if you never use it, Get out there and enjoy your chronograph. And in your free time make me a Bluetooth adapter, I built the cable but think the BT is over my head. After all, I did shoot my chronograph, how smart could I be? Good luck.

When I soldered up my cable my connections looked something like this. Connections.png As you can see, the wires coming from each cable are cut to different, but complementary, lengths so that the solder joints for the wires overlap with the ends of the resistor. I used heat shrink tubing over each solder joint and then a larger piece of heat shrink tubing over all 3 wires and the reisistor. Once it's all connected the resistor is pretty much inline with the rest of the wires, and it all collapses into a short, but somewhat stiff, bundle. It still looks a little like a snake that ate a rat, but it's better than a monkey fist in the middle of the cable. If you're really good with spacial relations and a soldering iron, it is possible to solder the resistor between the tip and sleeve terminals inside the 1/8" stereo jack. But, I haven't tried that yet. The only Android efforts I'm aware of are over on the ProChrono Bluetooth option thread. Great, I appreciate the idea. I am very close with my soldering iron but as usual there are places I am forbidden to even try for, that sounds like one of them.

If its in here already I apologize. I have found the number one thing that allows me to reload for hours is to manually pull out the indexing arm rather than let it hit the nubbin that allows it to back itself out and reset. I found that it doesn’t slow me down at all and now I do not have to worry about if the index arm is fully extended or not, everything works like a charm. That and keep the primer tray clean. As long as you pull out the arm and watch for primer issues you are golden with the loadmaster, so much time saved and so little money spent for red rather than blue.

Midway is easy to work with but I cannot recall it ever being cheaper than just finding a local sporting goods store that carries what you want or have them order it next time they place a bulk order. They buy in bulk and the hazmat fees are absorbed easily by them into the multitude of items they order. It helps your local provider and in the case of powder and primers is much cheaper

I built the cable and once I added the resistor (FYI, turns out if Radio shack doesn’t have the 10K 1/4w the 10K 1/2W works just as well) it works great. My question is, how do you make the connections with the USB and the resistor to the audio cable without it looking like some scary mess? I have soldered and then put a thick coating of the liquid insulation on the connections then brought the two cords together in the middle and tied it off with tape to keep the cords from pulling against the connections. It is the resistor that makes it hard since it is not inline but jumps from the red tip to the ground. So I cannot just heat shrink them into a nice thick cord.So it is stable but looks Butt Ugly. Any suggestions are appreciated. Anybody know of a way to have this work on a Android tablet, any apps?