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Walleye

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About Walleye

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    Bill

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  1. I didn't realize there was continued interest in this thread, and that you were asking questions. My "subscription" to the thread must have been broken. I wrote a tutorial last year to make the bluetooth option and saved it as a PDF, but it is was too large to upload and I lost patience at the time. Since there is some interest now, I have saved it to SlideShare. You may view it within Slideshare, if you want to download it you need to create a free Slideshare account. I'll email the PDF to you if you PM me your email address. http://www.slideshare.net/Bublanski/diy-chrono-bluetooth-procedure-bt2-s Here are a few pics, the finished product and the "guts": To Boxerglocker, you're welcome, making the cable is a fun, easy project. The bluetooth option is fun too but as I said in my original post about it, it's not for the faint of heart and I'm not sure how I got it working in the end.
  2. Bluetooth to my Win8 PC. Not for the faint of heart. Needed to configure the BT2S board, then needed correct the "virtual" COM ports created by Bluetooth pairing. And I'm still not exactly sure how I got it working in the end. It seems bulletproof now, however. Wow that was fun. Will post as much info/details as possible if anyone is interested.
  3. I think you've done it! I think that is the cable I spent 2 hours building. It should be plug and play compatible. No soldering required. Good news/bad news is, to build the Bluetooth version with the converter will probably require a 3.5mm jack and a DB-9 connector and a 10k resistor. But in the meantime I think the cable you found will work. Please post your results!
  4. M852 your post may have just cost me $45! This might work. I'll have to do some research. Will keep you posted.
  5. Glad you got it worked out. How about Bluetooth to iPhone or Android? That would be the ticket.
  6. @TheDave, I had exactly the same problem you're describing until I installed the 10K resister between the Chrono TX/UART RX and ground. The resistor is required. "rdy" on the display is what you should see right at power-up. When you click "String Change" there will be no shot data displayed until you click "Get Velocities" and there will be no statistics for the string until you click "Get Statistics". These are oversights in my opinion; the data should be pushed to the computer when you change strings.
  7. @TDH, thanks for the report, I'm glad my instructions were repeatable. I always wonder if I've forgotten something... Agreed about the software, it is reliable but usability didn't seem to factor into the design. Even if you could export all strings at once, rather than having to export each string individually, that would be a HUGE improvement. But since I downloaded the software for free from their web site, I don't think I have the right to complain to them. Surely somebody must have already told them how clunky their software is?
  8. No problem, I would think the only Mac option would be to use the "windows emulation" within OS10x, but then I don't know if the serial connection to Mac via USB would be compatible. Would be a fun experiment. Ideally the data collection would be Bluetooth to iPhone OS (since I have an iPhone). Next choice would be Bluetooth to Android phone, but then I don't have an Android phone...yet... Then the data could be picked up by email from whatever computer you wished, and the data massaged and plotted etc. independent of the data collection device. These all sound like fun projects but I barely have enough time to get to the range!
  9. @Histate, this is a two-step process: (1) Build a serial cable that connects your Pro Chrono to your laptop computer. (2) Download and install the software from the Pro Chrono web site. Both of these steps are outlined in sufficient detail in the PDF in the original post. If you can't figure out how to do either of these steps from that PDF, then you need to either (a) find a friend who can figure it out from the provided document or ( spend $50 to buy the cable and software from Pro Chrono. I'm sorry but I can't make it any simpler than that; there is some basic understanding of soldering, wiring, software installation, etc. required in order to complete the project. If you don't already own and know how to use a soldering iron and a volt/ohmmeter then this project is probably not for you. The other guys are talking about how they are writing their own software to collect and analyze the chrono data. That is beyond the scope of my original post, and beyond the scope of my technical capabilities.
  10. A similar thread was started in 2009 and has been added to a few times over the years. Thanks to that thread, I have created what I think is the definitive set of instructions for making your own cable for the Pro Chrono Digital USB Interface. The instructions in the attached PDF are sufficient for those who are comfortable with an Ohmmeter, a soldering iron, and heat shrink tubing, and who know how to install and configure drivers for a USB converter. If this is not you, then please get help from a friend or don't try this project. I assume no responsibility for any damage whatsoever. I purchased the 25' 3.5mm headphone extension cable ($4.65) and the TTL UART USB converter ($9.30) on Amazon. Links and keywords are below. I discovered that the USB Converter is not Windows 7 compatible, so I have included a link to one that is, that one is currently $15.99. I purchased the 10K 1/4W resistor at Radio Shack, it was less than $2 for 4 resistors. I have less than $15 into the whole operation. You can use any TTL UART USB converter you want, but I know that the Win 7 compatible converter listed here works with my setup. Have fun and let me know if it works for you. 25' 3.5mm headphone extension cable (Keywords mini headphone extension cable) Win 7 and prior compatible USB converter (Keywords Prolific 2303HX) (The attached wiring diagram color code is for this cable) Win 8 compatible USB converter (Keywords Prolific 2303HXD) (The attached wiring diagram color code is NOT for this cable) DIY Pro Chrono USB Interface.pdf
  11. Does the MIKROE-483 plug directly into the "standard" USB port on a computer, or is an extension or adapter needed between it and the computer? I already have a 3.5mm 25' audio extension cable on-hand so if I only need the MIKROE-483 to make this thing work then I'm ordering it ASAP. Thanks!
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