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M852

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  1. Since it's a Bluetooth option you may want to post it over in the DIY Bluetooth Interface for ProChrono Digital thread. Or just have an admin move it over.
  2. Check some earlier posts in this thread. I posted a link to the cable I bought and a link to the cable I would buy if I had to do it again. Both use FTDI chipsets. Edit: Links: What I ordered: FTDI TTL-232R-3V3-AJ What I should have ordered: TTL-232R-3V3-WE Rationale in the prior posts.
  3. Here's the schematic for a USB-to-TTL Module to 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo connector I used to check wired connections from a PC to the ProChrono Digital. It sounds like you've done this, but it bears repeating: make sure the TDX wire from the USB module/cable is connected to the RDX (ring) connector on the plug and make sure the RDX wire from the USB module is connected to the TDX (tip) connector on the plug. The 10k resistor is connected between the USB module RDX (TDX/tip on the plug) and the common ground. I got this wrong a couple of times during the builds and ended up learning the foll
  4. When I soldered up my cable my connections looked something like this. As you can see, the wires coming from each cable are cut to different, but complementary, lengths so that the solder joints for the wires overlap with the ends of the resistor. I used heat shrink tubing over each solder joint and then a larger piece of heat shrink tubing over all 3 wires and the reisistor. Once it's all connected the resistor is pretty much inline with the rest of the wires, and it all collapses into a short, but somewhat stiff, bundle. It still looks a little like a snake that ate a rat, but it's bette
  5. Check this post for additional info: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176086
  6. Walleye, did you ever get an "Apro exception" error when you were setting up the Bluetooth COM ports?
  7. Now that I have the cable behind me, I'm starting to look at the Bluetooth option. There's a surprisingly insightful Amazon review on the BT2S that explains how to program it (with the help of a USB to TTL Serial Converter). It looks like most of the other Bluetooth serial slave options (here and here) are based on the HC-05 or HC-06 chipsets. Couple of questions: What configuration changes did you make to the BT2S? Did you use a USB-to-TTL serial converter to make the changes? What power supply did you use? I'm thinking the end game would be to have the Bluetooth module mounted inside t
  8. Okay, unfortunately the FTDI TTL-232R-3V3-AJ cable did not work right out of the box (er, bag). I had to swap the Tx and Rx wires (yellow & orange) to get the chrono to receive, and I still had to put the 10k resistor between the tip and ground to get it to transmit back to the PC. I wanted to keep the molded 1/8" stereo plug, so I spliced the cable about 8" from the stereo plug to swap the wires and solder in the resistor. Used heat-shrink tubing to keep everything together and in-line. If I had it to do over again, I would probably get the TTL-232R-3V3-WE with the bare wire end and j
  9. Thanks for looking into it. I just ordered the FTDI TTL-232R-3V3-AJ, which looks like all of the parts in your original solution (except with a FTDI FT232RQ vs. the Prolific) integrated into one molded cable ($19 shipped). According to the datasheet, the pin outs (pg. 13) look the same. My only concern is whether the 10k resistor is still necessary. So did that cable work? =) Don't know yet. Chrono went out-of-stock & didn't ship.
  10. Thanks for looking into it. I just ordered the FTDI TTL-232R-3V3-AJ, which looks like all of the parts in your original solution (except with a FTDI FT232RQ vs. the Prolific) integrated into one molded cable ($19 shipped). According to the datasheet, the pin outs (pg. 13) look the same. My only concern is whether the 10k resistor is still necessary.
  11. Love this thread. On going wireless, is there any reason why you wouldn't be able to use a Serial-to-Bluetooth adapter (like this one) on the chrono end (serial wired to a 3.5mm plug) if you're using a laptop with a Bluetooth receiver? It seems to me the only trick would be getting power to the Bluetooth adapter.
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