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fastlane604

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Posts posted by fastlane604


  1. 1 hour ago, Superpipe9 said:

    Do you guys think the HBI theta trigger or the Cajun trigger is worth the money?

    I have both. I prefer the HBI because it is flat.  The HBI reduces the pre-travel but does not remove it.  It is not adjustable.  The CGW is slightly curved and the pre-travel can be adjusted until it is almost gone. If you prefer a flat trigger, I suggest the HBI.  If adjusting out the pre-travel is more important, I suggest the CGW. To answer the original question, if I buy another P-10 I will install an HBI trigger.


  2. 1 hour ago, obsessiveshooter said:

    There is an easy fix for this.  Chuck the guide rod up in a drill as if it were a drill bit, and with it spinning in the drill, take material off the head with a file until it matches the diameter exactly for the factory guide rod head.  I had to do this exact thing with a Jager glock guide rod that I was adapting for a non-glock project gun.  

    Thanks for the tip. Cajun Gun Works has their P-10 F rods in stock now so I have installed one of the., But, I will remember for future reference.


  3. Yes, i did.  I first removed the striker. I have unstuck both Glock and CZ slides doing that in the past.  That did not work.  I turned the gun upside down and initiated the slide removal protocol.  That did not work.  Out of frustration, I moved the slide as far forward as I could, about 3/8".  I then sharply rapped the back of the slide with a rubber hammer and the slide slid right off. I think the head of the Glock guide rod was hung up on the frame just enough to keep the slide from moving freely forward.  All seems good.  Thanks for asking.


  4. On 7/1/2019 at 10:08 AM, fastlane604 said:

     

    I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring.  Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would.  Slide went into battery.  Everything seemed to function fine.  When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch.  The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame.  The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker.  I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ.  I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success.  I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck.  

     

    So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are,  extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring.  The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops.  It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up.  There is no movement after the slide stops.  Any thoughts?

     

    A word to the wise. If you try a Glock rod, or any non OEM rod in your P-10, make certain that the head size does not exceed the head size of the OEM rod.  That is what was causing my problem.


  5. On 6/29/2019 at 7:32 PM, CHA-LEE said:

    I am fiddling with a CZ P10F for a Carry Optics setup and found the following discoveries....

     

    1 - Full size style Glock Guide rods will work along with Glock recoil springs. I got a Tungsten Glock Guide Rod and trimmed a little off of the end to make it flush with the muzzle. Obviously Glock recoil springs work as they are the same diameter.

     

    2 - I have tested Glock Recoil springs in 11, 13, 15, and 18lb ratings. I prefer the 13lb recoil spring the best with factory Winchester White Box 115gr ammo.

     

    3 - I tested factory ammo in 115, 124, 147 and 150gr bullet weights. For me, the 115gr ammo produced the least amount of muzzle bounce as the slide snaps back forward.

     

    4 - Springer Precision P-07 140mm base pads work well on the P10F tubes. I used a Taran Tactical "Thin" follower for STI/SV and cut material off of the back to make it 29mm long front to back. This makes it fit inside the P10F tubes without binding. Then I used a Grams 11 coil magazine spring. This setup allows me to cram 24 rounds in the mag and I can reload to it fairly easily. I will likely only cram the 24th round in there when I really need it as that does coil bind the spring excessively. But 24+1 is totally doable. I didn't test the last round slide lock back function with this setup as its not needed in Carry Optics. If you are running the gun dry mid stage run, you are doing something way wrong already and the slide locking back isn't going to make any difference.

     

    5 - Glock striker springs are direct replacements on the P10F. I tested 2, 3, 3.5 and 4lb striker springs. The 2lb striker spring obviously produces the lightest trigger pull but it also creates a few light strikes on factory ammo. It would likely work if I was using reloaded ammo with soft Federal primers. After switching to the 3lb striker spring I have yet to experience any light strikes with any factory ammo. The 3lb striker spring along with polished internals produces a buttery smooth trigger pull at about 3.5lbs.

     

    6 - There is no need to buy an expensive after market trigger shoe. The stock trigger can be tuned up to dramatically reduce the Pre/Over travel by using 2-56 button head screws in the trigger shoe itself. It took me about 30 minutes to get these Pre/Over travel screws installed and tuned up to dramatically reduce the overall trigger travel. I am not going to explain how to do this. If you can't figure out how to do it yourself, then leave it up to a qualified gunsmith to do it for you.

     

    7 - CZ Custom currently makes the most cost effective optic mounts. They are made out of aluminum and have the proper "key" machined into the bottom to engage the top of the slide properly.

     

    8 - I am using a Holosun 510C red dot sight with the CZ custom aluminum optic mount. This combo weighs 1.75oz. The stock slide mounted plate that covers the optic mounting portion also weighs exactly 1.75oz. This means that removing the plate to add an optic doesn't change the overall weight of the slide which is really cool. 

     

    9 - The portion of the grip where the removable back strap attaches has a HUGE empty spot where you can add lead weight to the grip if you wanted. Stick on wheel weights can easily be added to this area of the gun and I would venture to guess you could get at least 2oz of extra weight in there.

     

    10 - The Cajun Gun Works striker is dimensionaly identical to the stock CZ part. When the sear engagement surface on the stock CZ striker and CGW striker are polished the trigger pull feel is identical. Could the CGW striker potentially last longer because its machined out of bar stock instead of the MIM stock part? Probably. But I find it hard to believe that the stock MIM part will have a high failure rate or they wouldn't have used that type of metal for it.

     

    11 - The only portion of the grip that I felt needed more friction over the stock stippling is the left side of the grip. The heel of my support hand rests on the side of the gun where there isn't any stippling. I tried adding grip tape to the whole side panel with the stock stippling in place, but the grip tape would shift around on the stock stippling. I ground off the stock stippling on the left side of the grip to make it smooth then added grip tape to the whole area. Now it has consistent friction from the bottom all the way to the top and the grip tape doesn't move around. I am using Black Magic skateboard tape for the grip tape.

     

    12 - For my level of grip on the gun (Significant pounds of grip force) I will likely need to remove 1.5oz of weight from the slide to produce an optimal snap forward of the slide when shooting 115gr bullets. The Carry Optics division allows you to make these type of slide lightening cuts and still be legal. That is my next step in the "Modding" process on this blaster. Once that is done it should be fully ready to rumble for Carry Optics division.

     

    I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring.  Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would.  Slide went into battery.  Everything seemed to function fine.  When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch.  The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame.  The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker.  I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ.  I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success.  I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck.  

     

    So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are,  extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring.  The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops.  It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up.  There is no movement after the slide stops.  Any thoughts?


  6. Tighten up the reset, if it is possible with your gun.  My CZ P-10 C with an HBI trigger has a much shorter reset than  my G34 Gen 5 with an Apex trigger and connector (which has a shorter reset than the stock Glock trigger and connector).


  7. 1 hour ago, dr_boone said:

    My P10F after north of 2000 rounds and a #15 recoil spring is still very hard to operate the slide release. I don't think time and a lighter spring is the answer.

     

    I understand and I feel your pain.  I bought a G34 because of it.  But, spend 30 minutes dropping the slide over and over and see if it doesn't help some.


  8. 6 hours ago, nick779 said:

    I have about 3k through my P10C. It never loosened up so I helped it with some 800-2k grit. I run a #18 spring that loosened it up a little as well.

     

    I almost bought the CZC release, but for $90 ill weld and shape a tab onto the release. 

     

    For the record, I shoot a Gen 5 G34 now and honestly I really enjoy it. Ive got the trigger near the p10C (with HBI), for not a whole lot of money too.

    Here is my trip down P-10 slide release hell. I have two P-10 Cs.  Both slide releases were tight as a tick when new, as well as, having horrible mag releases.   No amount of reprofiling or polishing helped, but replacing with the Apex mag release did the trick.  The single side mag release on new issues has cured that problem.  But, I digress.  Back to the slide release.

     

    I handled a G34 gen 5 one day and couldn't believe how easy it was to drop a mag.  It was like Glock used my hands to design the slide release.  I bought one a few days later and then embarked on the trip down Glock trigger hell.  I put an Apex trigger, trigger bar and connector on it.  It is better but still nothing like the HBI trigger on my second P-10 C.  By this time my first P-10 C had loosened up enough to be tolerable.  But, my second P-10 C which has the HBI trigger and which I shoot the best had a slide release just as Rowdy describes.  I began repeated slide drops without rounds or snap caps in the magazine.  At first, I had to use two hands on the slide release.  I kept working it until I could drop it with one hand, as well as, many trips to the range.  It now has loosened up pretty well and I shot an IDPA style  match with it last Saturday and did not feel hindered by my slide lock reloads. On one occasion it even autoforwarded.  So, you ask why didn't I just shoot the G34 and forget the P-10 C and now the P-10 F I just received?  Because I  shoot the P-10 C better.  It feels better and I have more confidence with it.  The trigger is crisper and has a faster reset and less pre-travel.  Since I don't shoot USPSA I don't need the 19 round capacity of the P-10F and I find the F's grip a little unwieldy, so sometimes I put the F slide on the C frame and I have a very quick gun with less muzzle flip.  I really like the combination.

     

    So back to how to break in the slide release.  For me, it just took a lot of dropping the slide, over and over.  Plus a lot of shooting. 


  9. 6 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

    on my p10f, the stock guide rod is just slightly flared at its end to capture the spring. i just depressed the spring, with some effort to hold it there, and turned the guide rod against a grinder really quick. the flare was removed and voila, a perfectly fitting ss guide rod that will take other springs. for free.

     

    Rowdy, you the man.🍻


  10. I am using a CGW 15# spring on a CGW stainless guide rod.  I shoot 145 Bayou Round nose and N320 that run 128+ power factor.  Very accurate load but the brass drops from 0 to 2' from my feet.  Has anyone tried using a 13# spring on their P-10 C?


  11. I converted my SP-01 to SAO.  It already had the CGW Pro Package which includes the comp hammer and adjustable sear.  I removed the disco. I also removed the firing pin block and lifter arm and installed the spacer next to the sear.  The trigger pull was a little light for me, under 3 lbs.  I installed a Tanfoglio sear spring and an extra power trigger return spring and bumped it up to 3.5 lbs.  It is very crisp with no creep and quick reset.  I installed the CGW flat faced trigger with pre-travel and over travel adjustment.  I also put on the wide paddle left hand safety from CZ Custom.  I can really bear down on it to help with recoil control.


  12. I have the NDZ Performance Gen 5 extended mag release for my G34 Gen 5. They sell a couple different lengths. Mine is most extended. It is aluminum.  $15.  I have not noticed any problems with it, but I have only put a couple hundred rounds through the gun since installing it.  Good purchase and extended enough to get on it well.


  13. 13 hours ago, Superpipe9 said:

     

    Will be really nice when Apex comes out with a complete trigger kit for these P10’s. I’m still surprised no one has done it yet. The HBI and CGW triggers are just the actual trigger shoe and nothing else. 

     

    What are you hoping to accomplish?  With the HBI trigger and the lightest HBI striker spring the trigger pull on my P-10C is 3.5 lbs.  The break is crisp and the reset is lightning fast. There is a little bit of pre-travel.  If you don't like the pre-travel, the CGW trigger will adjust it out.  I have the Apex enhancement kit on my Gen 5 Glock 34 and it is better than the stock Glock trigger but far from my P-10C trigger.


  14. 17 minutes ago, Paul49 said:

    Customize, customize, customize and you keep running into reliability problems. 99% of problems I see at local USPSA matches are due to shooter modifications. 

     

    Stock parts, factory ammo, stock snap caps and NO problems or at least rare. Off the shelf snap caps don’t cost very much either.

     

    If people didn’t continuously tweak things there would be fewer problems and then this Forum might even go out of business. And the aftermarket folks, too.

     

    Call me the Grinch that tried to kill the aftermarket tweaking business. 

     

    Paul, get up a little grumpy today?😉


  15. 10 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    @fastlane604 gen 5 Glock “marksman barrels” have much shorter chambers than the We-Eat-Everything arrangment we’re all used to with Gens 1 - 4.

     

    Every time they improve perfection, it gets worse.

     

    😂🍻  Back to the plunk test.


  16. 58 minutes ago, floater said:

    Your snap cap has an OCL to long for the gen 5. The gen 5 glock chamber is a lot shorter. It might be the "fake bullet" of the snap cap is jamming? Just a thought.

     

    It wasn't a problem with the snap caps but it was a problem the other day at the range.  I had loaded some 124 TC Bayous at 1.10 OAL and I had a couple that were too long.  Really suprised me.  I have always dealt with short chambers on my CZs, but didn't think I'd have to worry about it with a Glock.  Only the TCs caused me trouble.  The RN ran just fine at 1.13 OAL.


  17. I tried the case with only a live primer and I tried a homemade snap cap with a spent primer installed backwards.  Both racked just like they should.  It appears I created much adieu about nothing.  Thank you all for the suggestions, especially HCH on the case with a live primer and BoyGlock with the primer backwards.  You assuaged my concerns.


  18. 14 minutes ago, BoyGlock said:

    Home made using empty shells? Could be the caulking in the primer pockets is too soft that the fp tip goes into the primer flash hole and binds in the hole holding it there not letting it retract. I use spent primer inserted backwards to plug the holes to prevent such thing. Had same problems in 2011s and prevented me to rack the slide. 

    Thanks for the tip on the backwards primer. I will try it.


  19. 2 hours ago, HCH said:

    I would just skip using snap caps

     

    What happens if you put a fired case in it and drop the striker? Or better yet, load only a primer (no powder or bullet) and see if it still happens. 

    Good suggestion. I will try it and report back.  As I mentioned earlier, skipping the snap caps is an easy thing to do.  My real concern is in the event of a high primer or a misfire.  I want to know that I can rack the slide to clear the chamber without taking the slide off the gun.


  20. 8 minutes ago, fastlane604 said:

    No problems with a laserlyte.  I inserted it into the chamber, closed the slide and pulled the trigger. I racked it like normal.  The only difference I see between the laserlyte and a 9mm case is that there is no rim on the laserlyte.

     

    I suppose I could take the striker out of the slide and try it with a live round.  That should determine whether the striker has any part in the equation. I have never had a reason to do this before.  There should be no tension on the trigger but it should still pull to rear, just like when it is pulled with the slide off.  I can't think of any reason this could cause a collateral problem (as long as I take out the striker, of course).


  21. 1 hour ago, fastlane604 said:

    I have one of those bore lasers somewhere.  I will dig it out and try it.  I am guessing the result will be no different.

    No problems with a laserlyte.  I inserted it into the chamber, closed the slide and pulled the trigger. I racked it like normal.  The only difference I see between the laserlyte and a 9mm case is that there is no rim on the laserlyte.


  22. 14 minutes ago, fastlane604 said:

    Yes and yes.

    I have one of those bore lasers somewhere.  I will dig it out and try it.  I am guessing the result will be no different.

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