fastlane604
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Posts posted by fastlane604
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Is it worth having? Yes. I do shoot local steel challenge type matches with it. But even if I did not shoot matches, I would still shoot it. Running the plate rack is a blast, whether it is from 10 yards or 25 yards.
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I don't know if there is a difference in the coating between Acme and Bayou and Blue. But Acme and Bayou leaded my PCC comp so badly that I swore off them for PCC. The barrel was fine. The comp had lead welded to it.
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I have two CMC AR9 triggers and an Elfmann AR9 trigger. Both are good. The Elftmann is adjustable from 2.5 to 4 lbs. The CMCs are rated at 3.5 but both break under 3. The Elftmann may break just a little crisper, but the reset on the CMCs is very quick and quicker than the Elftmann. I had one of each and needed a third. I bought the second CMC.
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24 minutes ago, JDIllon said:
I use 510Cs on everything. I have it set up on my open CZ Chezmate. And on my black Mamba 22lr. I love the large window and circle dot setup. The other thing that is great is their warranty, they pay shipping both ways and stand behind the product. JD
I have a 507 C-Gr. I have often said that if I had my choice, I'd have the 507C's 32 moa circle and dot on an SRO or DPP (I have both) window. You obviously don't feel like the 64 moa circle is too big?
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Thanks again for the replies.
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I resurrected this thread because I'm debating between a C-More Railway and a 510c for a RFRO gun. I will use it only for steel challenge. I have 507c so I am familiar with the circle/dot combination but not a 65 moa circle. If I get the C-More I will get the 16 moa dot. My main question is the brightness of the dot. How do they compare? Also, I like my 32 moa dot on my 507c. Do you ever find the 65 moa dot to be too big?
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Thank you all for the replies. I appreciate your input.
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Az and Earl,
Do you have the standard switch or the click switch on your C-Mores?
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4 hours ago, EarlKeese said:
12moa C-More is my choice as well. Plenty bright in full sun and very quick to pick up.
Do you run a Railway, also?
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5 hours ago, AzShooter said:
Of all the dots I've tried the C-More is the brightest. I run Railways on my pistols with 12 MOA dots and they work great even on the brightest sunny days.
You don't feel that the 12 moa dot is too large on 10 inch targets at 18 yards?
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55 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:
So can you not see the dot even on the brightest setting?
Maybe look at the C-more slide ride, you can get that with a 16 MOA dot. It's not brighter but bigger maybe that'll help you see it.
I can see the dot. On very sunny days it isn't as bright as I would like it to be. On cloudy days it is fine. We don't have many cloudy days where I live.
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56 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
If you are indicating the dot in the SRO is bright enough but you need to "acquire the dot quicker" is that not a matter of indexing the dot to the eye properly? Maybe I am not properly understanding what you are tying to convey. If you feel you need something to aid you in "acquiring the dot quicker" I would think something with a dot and a ring like the Holosun would make more sense.
Increasing the dots brightness is not going to make you index the optic correctly, and a dot that is too bright leads to other issues when you do acquire it.
I have experience with most RDS in some capacity, and I do not believe there is a brighter dot than that SRO on the market.
I will say using a Holographic optic like the EoTech, or the Vortex Huey may be an option. The EoTech gets every bit as bright as my SRO, but has the ring and a dot. Target acquisition with that optic feels faster than with my old Holosun 410C. I would try to barrow this optic before buying. They are both over $500 and would be expensive mistakes if they did nor work out.
The SRO is my brightest dot. I would still like it to be brighter. I live in the middle of Kansas. We are blessed with many days of very bright sunshine. On the most sunny of days, the dot is not bright enough for me. When I am inside at home, I have no trouble picking it up. It is plenty bright.
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Currently I have an SRO 5moa, DPP 6moa both red dots and a Holosun 507c with 2moa dot and 32 moa reticle in green. All are slide mounted on pistols. I had a DPP with the triangle and traded my buddy for the SRO. I am 70 years old and need a bright dot. The reason I traded the first DPP was the dot was not bright enough. When the DPP 6moa came out I figured Leupold had corrected that shortcoming. Wrong on my part.
Now, if you are 30 years old you are probably wondering what the heck is this old man talking about. Those dots are plenty bright for me. If you shoot long enough you will understand. Old eyes need more light and in the case of red dots, more brightness. I just bought a 10/22 for rimfire rifle open. The SRO is my brightest red dot, but I still need more brightness to acquire the dot quicker. Are there any red dots with a brighter dot than an SRO? Thanks for the help.
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On 11/30/2020 at 8:41 AM, SGT_Schultz said:
Does anyone know what could be done to a P-10 to have a rolling break instead of takeup-wall-break on the trigger?
I've done nothing to my trigger except change the trigger blade to a flat HBI.
Sounds like a question for Earlan357. He is very well versed in P-10 triggers. The only way that I know that you can create a rolling break in a P-10 is to trade it for a Glock.
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18 minutes ago, earlan357 said:
A G17 length guide rod is long enough. The P10F shares nearly the same amount of travel and free space for the spring as the P10C, so G17 springs will bind and reduce rear travel. A Wolff or Springco roundwire spring for a G19 works with the .275" diameter rod and won't coil bind.Thank you, Earlan. I always appreciate your extensive knowledge and your willingness to share.
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On 8/24/2020 at 10:24 PM, earlan357 said:
The CGW SS rod weighs 0.7oz.
The Jentra .275" Heavy weighs 2.0oz after it's cut to length.Earlan, There are two Jentra Tungsten guide rods listed on NDZ Performance for G17, G17L and G34s. I have the longer one, Jen-JTGR-1, that extends to the end of my G34. It runs past my p-10F muzzle .5 inch, as you say. The Jen-JTGR-2 is shorter, but by how much I don't know.
Do you know if the JTGR-2 is long enough to work on the P-10F? I don't care if it is not perfectly flush. I'd sacrifice a little weight to not have to cut down the JTGR-1.
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On 6/24/2020 at 9:57 PM, floater said:
Give Johnny Glock a call, bet he can answer your question.
On 6/25/2020 at 12:35 PM, Jamese35 said:I'm with floater, give Johnny Glock a call. If there is any formula for Glock triggers, he has it.
Plus 2.
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I have a Gen 5 G34 MOS and have had many CZ 75s, Sp-01s and Shadows. However, I have only handled (not owned) an S2. The G34 will fill up your hand more. Most likely, it will feel bulkier and not as comfortable as the CZ. Does that mean the CZ shoots better than the G34? Not necessarily. I am growing to like my G34 more and more. It has been a love hate relationship. However, trending more towards love.
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I have a Gen 5 G34 MOS. My second ever Glock. I bought a G17 several years ago and quickly sold it because I didn't like the trigger and consequently did not shoot it well. Shot mostly CZs since the first glock. All had good to exceptional triggers from CZ 75 SA to SP-01, converted SA only, to P-10C. All were modded. Pull weights ranged from 3 to 3.5 lbs. I had to go to Tanfoglio sear springs on the SP-01 to increase it up to 3 lbs. In short, all were much better, in my mind, than the stock Glock trigger. Understand, triggers likes and dislikes are highly subjective.,
I bought the G34 because I wanted a long barrel and MOS. I worked on the trigger myself and improved it some with a polish job and a spring change. I converted all my CZs to flat faced triggers so I bought the Apex flat face trigger with trigger bar and Apex connector. I could have bought the trigger shoe alone and had the same results. Pre-travel was reduced a little. Pull weight did not change. I had to do the polish job all over again because the Apex trigger bar and connector were not polished. The Apex flat face trigger shoe is very wide. Wider than I like. I still had quite a bit of pre-travel. Also, reset was longer than I was used to with my P-10C. Pull weight was 3.75 lbs with creep. Some call it rolling break. It is creep to me.
I agonized over ordering a Johnny Glocks trigger for several months. I had already spent over $100 on the Apex system and did not want to tack on another $200. But, I wanted a quicker reset. I ordered the comp trigger and I have made one range trip with it. Pull weight is 3.25. Pre-travel is much shorter and reset is very short and positive. Creep is reduced but is still present, however I can live with it. My accuracy is better with this trigger and my follow up shots are quicker. I did not buy the JG flat faced trigger and with this system I don't miss the flat face. All in all, I am very pleased with the Johnny Glocks trigger. In retrospect, I should have spent the $200 to begin with.
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Yep. Johnny's triggers use OEM parts and mods are internal.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I guess taking it down and putting it back one more time can't hurt anything.
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2 hours ago, mrvip27 said:
did you get the correct HBI kit? The older variations won’t work with the new OR models. HBI has a picture/warning about it in the description..or at least at one point.Thanks, I will check.
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1 hour ago, ElvisUSMC said:
1) I have a US made P10F OR, and it's slide to frame lock up is rather loose (0.04" play L/R with vertical play as well) and rattles like an old 1911 when shaken. I've put about 300 rnds through it and can't get it to hold a tight group. For example, using the same ammo, I can shoot inside its group by half with my P-09, P-10C, and Shadow 2.
2) Also, I installed a HB industries Theta Trigger and striker spring and 15lb recoil spring. Every 2-3 rnds the trigger doesn't reset, although the slide has fully cycled and loaded the next round. I could cause this malfunction during dry-fire by functioning the trigger, pulling up on the slide, and cycling it while pulling up.
I've taken the pistol back to stock but I can't replicate the malfunction. I like how this pistol feels and my P10C functions flawlessly with the same mods above. It's very frustrating and eroding my confidence with this specific pistol.
Edit: PS: I should also add that I originally installed the aluminum CGW trigger before the HBI Theta, it did the same malfunction.
Thoughts?
Same thing happened to me. Put an HBI trigger in my P-10C and it works great. Put one in my P-10F and it won't reset. Put the OEM trigger back in and works like it should.
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11 hours ago, dapribek said:
With the 2.5 DPP, I had a hard time finding the dot. The SRO, with the 5.0 dot solved my problem.
I see. My DPP has the 7.5 Delta. I would be going the other direction on dot size. Sometimes I feel like the 7.5 is a little big. Although the point on the delta is very nice for the long tight shots. Thank you.
PCC trigger prone to fouling?
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Thanks for the post. I have experienced this exact issue with my CMC PCC triggers. When mine get dirty, they do not reset. When I get a dead trigger, I can push it forward with my finger and it resets and will fire. Not conducive to good steel challenge times. As you, I very much like the trigger pull and quick reset of CMC triggers. I am interested to hear CMC's response.