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fastlane604

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Posts posted by fastlane604


  1. I have a Gen 5 G34 MOS and have had many CZ 75s, Sp-01s and Shadows.  However, I have only handled (not owned) an S2.  The G34 will fill up your hand  more. Most likely, it will feel bulkier and not as comfortable as the CZ.  Does that mean the CZ shoots better than the G34?  Not necessarily. I am growing to like my G34 more and more.  It has been a love hate relationship.  However, trending more towards love.  


  2. I have a Gen 5 G34 MOS.  My second ever Glock.  I bought a G17 several years ago and quickly sold it because I didn't like the trigger and consequently did not shoot it well.  Shot mostly CZs since the first glock.  All had good to exceptional triggers from CZ 75 SA to SP-01, converted SA only, to P-10C.  All were modded.  Pull weights ranged from 3 to 3.5 lbs.  I had to go to Tanfoglio sear springs on the SP-01 to increase it up to 3 lbs.  In short, all were much better, in my mind, than the stock Glock trigger.  Understand, triggers likes and dislikes are highly subjective.,

     

    I bought the G34 because I wanted a long barrel and MOS.  I worked on the trigger myself and improved it some with a polish job and a spring change.  I converted all my CZs to flat faced triggers so I bought the Apex flat face trigger with trigger bar and Apex connector.  I could have bought the trigger shoe alone and had the same results. Pre-travel was reduced a little.  Pull weight did not change.  I had to do the polish job all over again because the Apex trigger bar and connector were not polished.  The Apex flat face trigger shoe is very wide.  Wider than I like.  I still had quite a bit of pre-travel.  Also, reset was longer than I was used to with my P-10C.  Pull weight was 3.75 lbs with creep.  Some call it rolling break.  It is creep to me.

     

    I agonized over ordering a Johnny Glocks trigger for several months.  I had already spent over $100 on the Apex system and did not want to tack on another $200.   But, I wanted a quicker reset. I ordered the comp trigger and I have made one range trip with it.  Pull weight is 3.25.  Pre-travel is much shorter and reset is very short and positive.  Creep is reduced but is still present, however I can live with it.  My accuracy is better with this trigger and my follow up shots are quicker.  I did not buy the JG flat faced trigger and with this system I don't miss the flat face.  All in all, I am very pleased with the Johnny Glocks trigger.  In retrospect, I should have spent the $200 to begin with.

     

     

     

     

     

     

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  3. 2 hours ago, mrvip27 said:


    did you get the correct HBI kit? The older variations won’t work with the new OR models. HBI has a picture/warning about it in the description..or at least at one point. 

    Thanks, I will check.


  4. 1 hour ago, ElvisUSMC said:

    1) I have a US made P10F OR, and it's slide to frame lock up is rather loose (0.04" play L/R with vertical play as well) and rattles like an old 1911 when shaken.  I've put about 300 rnds through it and can't get it to hold a tight group. For example, using the same ammo, I can shoot inside its group by half with my P-09, P-10C, and Shadow 2. 

    2) Also, I installed a HB industries Theta Trigger and striker spring and 15lb recoil spring.  Every 2-3 rnds the trigger doesn't reset, although the slide has fully cycled and loaded the next round. I could cause this malfunction during dry-fire by functioning the trigger, pulling up on the slide, and cycling it while pulling up.  

     I've taken the pistol back to stock but I can't replicate the malfunction.  I like how this pistol feels and my P10C functions flawlessly with the same mods above.  It's very frustrating and eroding my confidence with this specific pistol.

     

    Edit: PS: I should also add that I originally installed the aluminum CGW trigger before the HBI Theta, it did the same malfunction. 

     

    Thoughts?

    Same thing happened to me. Put an HBI trigger in my P-10C and it works great.  Put one in my P-10F and it won't reset.  Put the OEM trigger back in and works like it should.


  5. 11 hours ago, dapribek said:

    With the 2.5 DPP, I had a hard time finding the dot. The SRO, with the 5.0 dot solved my problem. 

     

    I see. My DPP has the 7.5 Delta.  I would be going the other direction on dot size.  Sometimes I feel like the 7.5 is a little big.  Although the point on the delta is very nice for the long tight shots. Thank you.


  6. On 12/26/2019 at 3:24 PM, dapribek said:

    I have the 5MOA Trijicon SRO. Not sure about the auto shut-off, but I really like it much more than my Leupold DPP. 

     

    I too have the DPP.  I've been thinking about another optic.  What is it about the 5 MOA SRO that makes you like it better than the DPP?


  7. On 12/26/2019 at 3:24 PM, dapribek said:

    I have the 5MOA Trijicon SRO. Not sure about the auto shut-off, but I really like it much more than my Leupold DPP. 

     

    I too have the DPP.  I've been thinking about another optic.  What is it about the 5 MOA SRO that makes you like it better than the DPP?


  8. I appreciate the opinions.  And I know, at least one is very well informed.  I would like to think there is a little bit of pre-travel.  However, that is not what the website, rangerproofswag.com, states. And there is an explanation as to why.  Is there anyone on this board that acutally has one?


  9. Does anyone have the Long Ranger trigger or the Task Force Ranger trigger for Glocks by Ranger Proof Swag?  Failing that, have you shot one? The website advertises these triggers as eliminating all pre-travel.  In practice is that correct?  Is there no pre-travel at all?


  10. I am beginning to give thought to a building a P-10 F Open gun for steel challenge type events.  Since there is no power factor requirement, 9mm works.  I would use a slide mount optic and probably buy a barrel/compensator combo, maybe from Primary Machine.   Can a slide mount optic be competitive in steel challenge?  I know the trigger is not going to be in the 2 lb or less range, but that is OK.  I prefer 3.5 lb triggers.  Is this viable, or just a waste of money?  Thanks.


  11. 1 hour ago, Superpipe9 said:

    Do you guys think the HBI theta trigger or the Cajun trigger is worth the money?

    I have both. I prefer the HBI because it is flat.  The HBI reduces the pre-travel but does not remove it.  It is not adjustable.  The CGW is slightly curved and the pre-travel can be adjusted until it is almost gone. If you prefer a flat trigger, I suggest the HBI.  If adjusting out the pre-travel is more important, I suggest the CGW. To answer the original question, if I buy another P-10 I will install an HBI trigger.


  12. 1 hour ago, obsessiveshooter said:

    There is an easy fix for this.  Chuck the guide rod up in a drill as if it were a drill bit, and with it spinning in the drill, take material off the head with a file until it matches the diameter exactly for the factory guide rod head.  I had to do this exact thing with a Jager glock guide rod that I was adapting for a non-glock project gun.  

    Thanks for the tip. Cajun Gun Works has their P-10 F rods in stock now so I have installed one of the., But, I will remember for future reference.


  13. Yes, i did.  I first removed the striker. I have unstuck both Glock and CZ slides doing that in the past.  That did not work.  I turned the gun upside down and initiated the slide removal protocol.  That did not work.  Out of frustration, I moved the slide as far forward as I could, about 3/8".  I then sharply rapped the back of the slide with a rubber hammer and the slide slid right off. I think the head of the Glock guide rod was hung up on the frame just enough to keep the slide from moving freely forward.  All seems good.  Thanks for asking.


  14. On 7/1/2019 at 10:08 AM, fastlane604 said:

     

    I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring.  Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would.  Slide went into battery.  Everything seemed to function fine.  When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch.  The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame.  The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker.  I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ.  I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success.  I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck.  

     

    So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are,  extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring.  The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops.  It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up.  There is no movement after the slide stops.  Any thoughts?

     

    A word to the wise. If you try a Glock rod, or any non OEM rod in your P-10, make certain that the head size does not exceed the head size of the OEM rod.  That is what was causing my problem.


  15. On 6/29/2019 at 7:32 PM, CHA-LEE said:

    I am fiddling with a CZ P10F for a Carry Optics setup and found the following discoveries....

     

    1 - Full size style Glock Guide rods will work along with Glock recoil springs. I got a Tungsten Glock Guide Rod and trimmed a little off of the end to make it flush with the muzzle. Obviously Glock recoil springs work as they are the same diameter.

     

    2 - I have tested Glock Recoil springs in 11, 13, 15, and 18lb ratings. I prefer the 13lb recoil spring the best with factory Winchester White Box 115gr ammo.

     

    3 - I tested factory ammo in 115, 124, 147 and 150gr bullet weights. For me, the 115gr ammo produced the least amount of muzzle bounce as the slide snaps back forward.

     

    4 - Springer Precision P-07 140mm base pads work well on the P10F tubes. I used a Taran Tactical "Thin" follower for STI/SV and cut material off of the back to make it 29mm long front to back. This makes it fit inside the P10F tubes without binding. Then I used a Grams 11 coil magazine spring. This setup allows me to cram 24 rounds in the mag and I can reload to it fairly easily. I will likely only cram the 24th round in there when I really need it as that does coil bind the spring excessively. But 24+1 is totally doable. I didn't test the last round slide lock back function with this setup as its not needed in Carry Optics. If you are running the gun dry mid stage run, you are doing something way wrong already and the slide locking back isn't going to make any difference.

     

    5 - Glock striker springs are direct replacements on the P10F. I tested 2, 3, 3.5 and 4lb striker springs. The 2lb striker spring obviously produces the lightest trigger pull but it also creates a few light strikes on factory ammo. It would likely work if I was using reloaded ammo with soft Federal primers. After switching to the 3lb striker spring I have yet to experience any light strikes with any factory ammo. The 3lb striker spring along with polished internals produces a buttery smooth trigger pull at about 3.5lbs.

     

    6 - There is no need to buy an expensive after market trigger shoe. The stock trigger can be tuned up to dramatically reduce the Pre/Over travel by using 2-56 button head screws in the trigger shoe itself. It took me about 30 minutes to get these Pre/Over travel screws installed and tuned up to dramatically reduce the overall trigger travel. I am not going to explain how to do this. If you can't figure out how to do it yourself, then leave it up to a qualified gunsmith to do it for you.

     

    7 - CZ Custom currently makes the most cost effective optic mounts. They are made out of aluminum and have the proper "key" machined into the bottom to engage the top of the slide properly.

     

    8 - I am using a Holosun 510C red dot sight with the CZ custom aluminum optic mount. This combo weighs 1.75oz. The stock slide mounted plate that covers the optic mounting portion also weighs exactly 1.75oz. This means that removing the plate to add an optic doesn't change the overall weight of the slide which is really cool. 

     

    9 - The portion of the grip where the removable back strap attaches has a HUGE empty spot where you can add lead weight to the grip if you wanted. Stick on wheel weights can easily be added to this area of the gun and I would venture to guess you could get at least 2oz of extra weight in there.

     

    10 - The Cajun Gun Works striker is dimensionaly identical to the stock CZ part. When the sear engagement surface on the stock CZ striker and CGW striker are polished the trigger pull feel is identical. Could the CGW striker potentially last longer because its machined out of bar stock instead of the MIM stock part? Probably. But I find it hard to believe that the stock MIM part will have a high failure rate or they wouldn't have used that type of metal for it.

     

    11 - The only portion of the grip that I felt needed more friction over the stock stippling is the left side of the grip. The heel of my support hand rests on the side of the gun where there isn't any stippling. I tried adding grip tape to the whole side panel with the stock stippling in place, but the grip tape would shift around on the stock stippling. I ground off the stock stippling on the left side of the grip to make it smooth then added grip tape to the whole area. Now it has consistent friction from the bottom all the way to the top and the grip tape doesn't move around. I am using Black Magic skateboard tape for the grip tape.

     

    12 - For my level of grip on the gun (Significant pounds of grip force) I will likely need to remove 1.5oz of weight from the slide to produce an optimal snap forward of the slide when shooting 115gr bullets. The Carry Optics division allows you to make these type of slide lightening cuts and still be legal. That is my next step in the "Modding" process on this blaster. Once that is done it should be fully ready to rumble for Carry Optics division.

     

    I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring.  Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would.  Slide went into battery.  Everything seemed to function fine.  When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch.  The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame.  The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker.  I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ.  I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success.  I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck.  

     

    So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are,  extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring.  The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops.  It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up.  There is no movement after the slide stops.  Any thoughts?


  16. 1 hour ago, dr_boone said:

    My P10F after north of 2000 rounds and a #15 recoil spring is still very hard to operate the slide release. I don't think time and a lighter spring is the answer.

     

    I understand and I feel your pain.  I bought a G34 because of it.  But, spend 30 minutes dropping the slide over and over and see if it doesn't help some.


  17. 6 hours ago, nick779 said:

    I have about 3k through my P10C. It never loosened up so I helped it with some 800-2k grit. I run a #18 spring that loosened it up a little as well.

     

    I almost bought the CZC release, but for $90 ill weld and shape a tab onto the release. 

     

    For the record, I shoot a Gen 5 G34 now and honestly I really enjoy it. Ive got the trigger near the p10C (with HBI), for not a whole lot of money too.

    Here is my trip down P-10 slide release hell. I have two P-10 Cs.  Both slide releases were tight as a tick when new, as well as, having horrible mag releases.   No amount of reprofiling or polishing helped, but replacing with the Apex mag release did the trick.  The single side mag release on new issues has cured that problem.  But, I digress.  Back to the slide release.

     

    I handled a G34 gen 5 one day and couldn't believe how easy it was to drop a mag.  It was like Glock used my hands to design the slide release.  I bought one a few days later and then embarked on the trip down Glock trigger hell.  I put an Apex trigger, trigger bar and connector on it.  It is better but still nothing like the HBI trigger on my second P-10 C.  By this time my first P-10 C had loosened up enough to be tolerable.  But, my second P-10 C which has the HBI trigger and which I shoot the best had a slide release just as Rowdy describes.  I began repeated slide drops without rounds or snap caps in the magazine.  At first, I had to use two hands on the slide release.  I kept working it until I could drop it with one hand, as well as, many trips to the range.  It now has loosened up pretty well and I shot an IDPA style  match with it last Saturday and did not feel hindered by my slide lock reloads. On one occasion it even autoforwarded.  So, you ask why didn't I just shoot the G34 and forget the P-10 C and now the P-10 F I just received?  Because I  shoot the P-10 C better.  It feels better and I have more confidence with it.  The trigger is crisper and has a faster reset and less pre-travel.  Since I don't shoot USPSA I don't need the 19 round capacity of the P-10F and I find the F's grip a little unwieldy, so sometimes I put the F slide on the C frame and I have a very quick gun with less muzzle flip.  I really like the combination.

     

    So back to how to break in the slide release.  For me, it just took a lot of dropping the slide, over and over.  Plus a lot of shooting. 

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