Brassaholic13
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Posts posted by Brassaholic13
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As designed on our press in house, it has 0.020" based on SAAMI specifications. We cannot help manufacturing tolerances of the press manufacturer, unfortunately. Only so much we can do. Glad you found something that works. Yes, plastic is often difficult to file, but most people try to use metal files. Wood files work better.
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File the slot. Not all Dillon's are machined the same, unfortunately.
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On 1/6/2019 at 10:53 PM, abigger04 said:
How do you tune the index spring?
First, have a spare on hand in case you cut off too much.
Then, remove the entire bottom "base" coil. From there, start cutting 1/4 coil off at a time. Usually 1/4 or 1/2 of a coil will suffice. The goal is to remove tension from the coil. The spring's only job is to keep the index arm from dragging the shell plate backwards. Any pressure more than that only contributes to shell plate snap. Bearings/O-rings, and low mass detent balls are also gimmicks.
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More items to lighten your wallet and not address the issue. If you want to smooth the indexing, tune the index spring. It's way over powered and is what causes the snap. Everything else is a gimmick.
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On 5/29/2018 at 7:34 AM, Tokarev said:
This fellow has a boring bar. I haven't used it so have no idea how well it might work.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323264406393
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
That's not a boring bar. That's an end mill with a "socket" over it.
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On 5/30/2018 at 10:00 PM, Tokarev said:
Alright. The Titan adapter has been received and installed.
The Bosch router makes crazy short work of converting 223 into 277 Wolverine. My only complaint is all the shavings. Some fall back into the cases while others get trapped in the adapter itself. After about 250 cases I had a big wad of brass strings and bits inside the adapter and around the end mill.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
That's because Titan didn't do a good job at copying the Honey Badger. There's a bit more to it than just the outer dimensions and putting a hole in the center.
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9 hours ago, rjacobs said:
When i got into it in 2011, there was Whidden and CH4D. The CH4D dies, at the time were supposedly being cut with Whisper reamers which aren't QUITE like 300blk reamers(supposedly CH4D is now cutting to 300blk spec, but I have heard of other issues with other trim dies they make, so I will continue to stay away from them). Whidden was what everybody pretty much was using. Then Dillon came out with the 2 step dies in order to try to save the RT1200 trimmers from blowing up in 22-25k rounds(I blew up 2). Then Dillon came out with the RT1500 which solved the trimmer blowing up problem and negated the need to do a 2 step processing. Now guys(like you) are running routers with end mills and other stuff which to me is a bit crazy, but to each his own. I dont know how fast you can run that router setup, but an RT1500 maxes out at about 950-1000 rounds per hour. Faster than that and the cut is not clean and a lot of swarf is left on the case mouth. This was confirmed with Dillon engineers on inches per hour feed rate.
BUT as far as dies go, Whidden would still be my personal go to. They will go 100k or so rounds before you wear the die out, thats presuming no spinning of the cases... You can destroy any die quickly if the cases are spinning. Ive yet to destroy a die except one where the head broke off. Whidden said it look like bad heat treat(or something) when I sent it back for warranty(I cant honestly remember, it was in 2012 or so). Ive got 1 die in my tool head now and 2 sitting in my spares box.
Dillon has engineers? Since when? They have yet to figure out what clearance to use on a bearing to bore on the 1050. The slowest speed on the Bosch is 8k, and it leaves a perfect cut.
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Bearing kits increase snap, as do the lightweight balls. Those parts are designed to do nothing but lighten your wallet. Gimmicks.
Putting grease under your shell plate is doing nothing but asking for problems by collecting dirt.
If you want to decrease snap, tune the detent ball spring. The detent ball is only there to prevent reverse rotation of the shell plate when the index arm retracts. Any additional pressure above and beyond that only contributes to shell plate snap.
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Wayne, to advertise here, you have to pay.
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On 4/7/2018 at 7:49 AM, jmorris said:
I don’t see any metals in “supported materials”. The steelfill filament, that is metal particles in PLA would be as close to metal as a metallic paint job.
Bronze isn't a metal? Hmm....
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10 hours ago, jmorris said:
You are saying a $600 3D printer can print something like the video I linked?
Tell me more!
Right off their page. I've printed the carbon fiber filament, and it's some damn tough stuff. I'd use it to print a polymer frame if I had the need/desire.
- Supported materials – PLA, ABS, PET, HIPS, Flex PP, Ninjaflex, Laywood, Laybrick, Nylon, Bamboofill, Bronzefill, ASA, T-Glase, Carbon-fibers enhanced filaments, Polycarbonates...
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3 hours ago, jmorris said:
It will be cool if I live long enough for the metal 3D printers to become affordable. Would be a real game changer.
My Prusa can print metal filament.
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41 minutes ago, jmorris said:
Just clicked on your link, that looks very similar to the Anet 8, what does it do different/better for the extra $440?
No idea, I didn't buy something to tinker with, or a facsimile thereof. As such, I have no experience with the A8, other than to see people constantly asking for help with it on the Facebook 3d printing groups.
I've had my MK2 Prusas, upgraded to MK2S specs now for almost two years. No issues. I slice the models I want to print, load them onto the memory card, and hit print. Prints come out dimensionally accurate every time.
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Buy once, cry once. I have a pair of genuine Prusa MK2s printers.
If you hate the Lee Loadmaster, buying a cheap 3d printer is not for you.
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When you're using it to make money, you figure out how to do things a bit quicker.
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8 hours ago, tanks said:
That puzzles me. Dillon says lube the units at every 10K. So, a production facility would be taking it apart and lubing it twice a day.
Yeah, and? It takes about 20 minutes to clean one.
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17 hours ago, stick said:
I really wouldn't consider two months old used. How many rounds could he have loaded on it in two months?
Well, if it was on an auto-drive, 20k per day in a production facility.
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16 hours ago, slavex said:
the MBF works much much better than the Hornady one, I've yet to meet someone who is happy with the Hornady feeder.
I have a Hornady... It's a POS.
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23 hours ago, stick said:
Time is relative. Time for me might not be for you. If he's only loading a 100 or so rounds, it's not financially worth it for him to spend $460 on a bullet feeder.
If he's only loading 100 or so rounds, he may as well use his fingers.
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So, you want someone to steal the design and print it, because why again?
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Check the shuttle. Make sure the very end is not bent outwards. Check to make sure it's square.
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If it's getting stuck all the way to the rear, most likely the "Hook" has been bent outwards, towards the ram.
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26 minutes ago, cvincent said:
Like this?
Yup.
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5 hours ago, cvincent said:
2 mounting holes only.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkPut 2 more 1/4" holes in the bottom, 90 degrees from the mounting holes. They were added about a year ago to allow vacuum to be pulled through the trimmer adapter, preventing swarf pull up by the end mill.
S1050 Loose Bearings
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Nope, it's just poor tolerances by Dillon. Your press is just like every other press out there. Bearings should have an interference to light press fit. In reality, you don't have a bearing, you have a bushing.