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ams30gts

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Posts posted by ams30gts

  1. I just got my Mark 7 up and running and I must say this thing is freakin awesome.  It does exactly what it is supposed to and does it well.  Ran about 1K through it right now and ran great.  Only issue I still have is brass falling over at station 1 when it gets inserted.  Happens maybe 1 out of 100.

    What I have in the toolhead and settings:

    1. Brass insertion
    2. Lee Universal Decapping Die
    3. F&FB Swage Rod & Swage Rod Backer
    4. Empty
    5. Empty
    6. 223 Trim Die + 1500 Trimmer (1.456" Headspace @ 1.750")
    7. Empty
    8. Neck Expanding Die

    Here are the settings I am running at which seemed to run nicely.  Still tinkering with it to see what is best/efficient.

    • 1500 RPH
    • Digital Clutch 4
    • Index Speed 5
    • Bottom Dwell 6

    Just a few questions for fellow Mark 7ers.

    1. I started with the clutch set at 3, but occasionally it would stop.  Now I am running it at 4.  What do you run yours at?
    2. When I set the machine at 1800 RPH, I needed to set the clutch higher.  How high should I go?

     

  2. 2 hours ago, Phlier said:

    You most likely won't get that amount of head tilt when there is a shell at the swage station.

    You should make sure that the reading you get when your shell plate is fully populated with brass is the same as what you're getting now, with just the one station populated as you set your sizing die. I ended up having to back out my sizing die a full 1/4 turn to get the same shoulder bump with the shell plate populated as what I got with just the size/trim die station populated.

    As a general rule, it is best to set *all* your dies with a shell at every station

    I got that reading with shells in every station.  I should check again for head tilt though with brass in there.

  3. 1 hour ago, rjacobs said:

    your reloading life will change forever...

    I used a case gauge exactly once, thought I had a good setup, jam city in my AR to the point I had to mortar the gun.  To long of headspace.  But if you dropped em in the gauge they looked great.Then I bought a Hornady case comparator setup and had a REAL NUMBER to work with and adjust the die to.  No more "oh, does that look like its at the high or the low shelf" when there is like .002 difference between them.IMG_20131113_212640.jpg

     

     

    Should I just start with a factory new round and get a reading from that?  I assume that would be the best way to go.

     

  4. On 9/20/2016 at 9:16 PM, rjacobs said:

    Throw out that case gauge, buy the Hornady case comparator setup, measure a known good piece of factory brass(I use Federal Gold Medal Match) and replicate said measurement.

    If you still cant get to where you need to be, then do as Henny posted and sand the base of the die a little bit at a time until you can get where you need to be without over stressing the machine.

    Just bought one.  I just ordered a Mark 7 to replace my PW autodrive.  Will hopefully get it all nice and setup early next week.

  5. When using the 223 trim die on my 1050 I have to cam-over quite a bit to get the case within SAAMI spec.  This puts quite a bit of pressure on the weak shell plate and I would hate to have to buy another which I already had to do.  When I see youtube videos of others processing 223, I don't see their tool heads flex as much as mine does.

    I use a LE Wilson Case Gauge to check the cases.

    Anyone have a fix for this?

  6. This is my method.  I process on the 1050 and load on the 550.  I tumble in walnut before processing and then tumble in stainless after processing.

    1050 setup:

    1. Brass insertion
    2. Lee Universal Decapping Rod
    3. Swage with F&F hardened swage rod
    4. Empty
    5. Empty
    6. 223 Trim Die w/ 1500 trimmer
    7. Empty
    8. Lee Collet Neck Die (Only enough so the pin expands the neck back to spec)
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