xtremekramer
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Posts posted by xtremekramer
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Yup, more practice required! Sent my lifter off to C-RUMS and it arrived there on Saturday! Hope to get it back soon! So no practice till it's back. Hoping to shoot my first match July 12th.
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So far my only issue with my 1301 is the jam issue that was mentioned in another thread. Here is what I have found: I have done it in practice several times. Load one in the chamber and hit the bolt release, load the tube, hit the bolt release. It releases 1.5 shells onto the lifter. PITA to clear. I am fairly new to shotguns, so I don't know if any other semi will do this, but the 1301 will do it every time. Partial answer is just don't hit the release button. However, the nice large release button is great when you are trying to hit it and not so great when you accidentally hit it. Is there any way to make sure this doesn't happen on the clock? Seems it was designed to allow a quick mag tube ammo dump, but when the lifter is down in a chamber loaded state it still allows the ammo dump to function.
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I love my 1301, here's how you get the jam he is talking about. I have done it in practice several times. Load one in the chamber and hit the bolt release, load the tube, hit the bolt release. It releases 1.5 shells onto the lifter. PITA to clear. I am fairly new to shotguns, so I don't know if any other semi will do this, but the 1301 will do it every time. Partial answer is just don't hit the release button. However, the nice large release button is great when you are trying to hit it and not so great when you accidentally hit it. Not sure if there is anything that can be done to stop it from functioning that way. That being said I find the recoil to be quite manageable compared to other semis I have tried and I find it swings quite well with its light weight. I did just send my lifter to C-RUMS for a weld job. I have small hands and found that I was still getting my thumb caught when loading. I went with it since it requires the fewest mods out of the box based on these forums. 1301 seems to currently have the fewest required mods to make 3 fun ready and the fewest mods to fix design issues, again based off the 3 gun forums.
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So what's the proper way to size the stock length on a shotgun? I saw on another thread about an article that some one did. I haven't been able to find it. So if some one can give me the link that works as well. When I put the first 100 rounds through my 1301 I had about five or so rounds that had me punching my nose with my thumb. I then added the small extension. Is there a general rule for the length you would want for 3 gun? Is this length the same as you would want for other sg sports or do you guys prefer something slightly shorter?
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"Dram" is also used as a measure of the powder charge in a shotgun shell, representing the equivalent of black powder in drams avoirdupois. Unit of volume. Pretty much just used as a way to compare current powder charges to black powder from the old days
Something I found on the .net:
cool, i googled DRAM and shotgun DRAM and came up with little that appeared useful. Apparently DRAM has many other meanings. Thanks for info guys!
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what is dram? i noticed some boxes say what dram it is and others don't. Speaking in terms of recoil, you have mass and velocity. So i assume the dram has to do with the velocity if you can have 1 1/8 oz with different dram? Thanks for all the great info.
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I looked for low recoil shells at sportsman's warehouse and struck out. So I picked up 4 different brands of shells. Shot all 4 on sunday in my new gun. They all worked flawlessly. The guy showing me how to shoot skeet let me shoot his over under. I commented on how little recoil it had. He said he reloads his own at 3/4 oz and roughly 1250 fps. Told him my story about trying to find low recoil shells and he handed me two and said here try these. The first one fired didn't eject before the second one tried to feed. Cleared it and fired the second round and it ejected just fine. He mentioned maybe working a load up for me that would cycle better. Would be pretty cool since I just met the guy 2 hours earlier. Is any one running a 3/4 oz load or some other type of low recoil shell that cycles well in your 1301? It was quite nice how little recoil was felt on his two shells and how little overall movement it appeared to have.
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Is there any way to put a sling mount on with out using the barrel clamp? Or do you guys just install a barrel clamp when you need a sling and leave the clamp off when you don't?
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Makes sense Trapr. Thanks for the info.
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oscarmike, that's kinda what I was wondering if it was possible. My question I guess would be, is there a scenario where you can shorten the spring enough with out compromising the feeding, where you would get almost a 11th round but not quite and successfully ghost load through the port like I was accidentally doing it. Guess for the price of a spring I could experiment after I get my + 5.
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Maybe i was miss remembering which 3 pieces come loose on these. I thought it was the mid bead, the bolt release and the bolt handle that needed loc tite. As there are now 37 pages, it took me 4 days to completely read though it. Makes sense about the tube. Like i said, i did it on accident several times while loading it. I haven't bought my nordic +5 yet and have no experience with playing with the spring tension.
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If you ghost load by putting one in the tube and having it release onto the lifter, you arent ghost loading because your mag tube isnt full. Ghost loading is filling the mag tube to capacity, then adding one onto the lifter.
So if you are close enough to ghost load through the tube then you are close enough to get an extra round in the tube then.
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So playing some more with mine. Realized in practicing my loading that loading a shell past the lifter but not past the catch accidentally ghost loads the gun. After reading through this entire thread over the last few days and starting to understand how the mag tubes work, have any of you shortened your spring enough to allow this to happen on purpose and still get full mag tubes? Or does the spring end up being to short to reliably function by the time it is short enough to almost allow an extra round in the tube?
Also, I am trying to do the quick mag tube empty by pressing the bolt release. It does release the shells but they slide back to the back of the port and get stuck. I pull one out and the next one gets stuck as well. Is this a technique thing? Potentially just the dummy shells i am using? Just ordered better dummy shells tonight.
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I am pretty new to shotguns. Bought my 24" on saturday. Been practicing loading and shouldering the gun. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. My 870 has the ghost ring on it, so for the most part i have always aimed it like a rifle. I assume with the mid bead you line up the mid bead with the front fiber? When i shoulder mine, most of the time the mid bead is just below the front fiber. Does this mean i need to use the other shim? Or should i just go shoot it first and see if poa=poi and then change it if it isn't?
My release bolt was pretty loose on mine. Just put some loc tite on it. My bolt handle is tight enough i can't get it off by hand and can't seem to unscrew the mid bead by hand either. So hopefully mine are good.
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Hey does anyone know for sure, or read that the safety is reversible ? I read it was somewhere & now I cant find it anywhere ...lol A buddy wants to buy one but needs to reverse the safety....
Thanks !
Fireman , did you find out if the safety is reversble?
I saw in another thread here that yes the safety is reversible.
I believe Iggy to be correct here ... I saw the other thread also but I have not seen anything from Beretta officially on it....
I just bought the 24" inch one last night. It says in the owners manual that the safety is reversible.
Are MTAC turrets resettable to zero?
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Maybe this is a dumb question, but with the retical on the mtac, why would you want to rezero the turrets? Isn't the point of the retical for bullet drop at distances?
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