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xtremekramer

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Posts posted by xtremekramer

  1. I added a +5 tube to my 1301 and ran my first comp with zero issues. The guys on my squad were quite impressed with my stock gun. I may eventually play with the loading port, but right now it's not holding me back. For any one with larger hands, the stock lifter isn't an issue. For my small fingers, I opted to get the lifter welded. Quite jealous by the way! Would live to take a class from Horner!

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  2. What are you guys finding shoots well for slugs out of the 1301? I have tried Remington slugger 1 oz, Remington reduced recoil riffled 1 oz, federal super slug hollow point 1 oz, and federal classic rifled hollow point maximum 1 oz. The classics shot the best.... But they kick like a beast and we're still off by about 3 inches. The rest were off 6-8 inches. They were all older boxes I just happened to have sitting around that were given to me by my father in law. Not sure that age should have any effect on them. I have the Nordic + 5 with out a clamp. There was light wind the day I tried them. But they were off 6-8 high and roughly 3-4 inches right. The classics were close to dead center but 3 inches low.

  3. Worked on loading and thus unloading tonight. After more practice I think the lifter is just fine on it. Changed my technique just a little on the unload and they now come right out 95% of the time.

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  4. Mine has a c-rums welded lifter it. My only issue right now is unloading through the port. Seems like it doesn't sit quite low enough to allow the shells to get over the extended lifter easily. It loads just fine to lifter as long as I don't baby the bolt shut when I make ready.

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  5. Yup, this weekend. Let the bolt slam shut for lack of a better word. Issue was the bolt wasn't closed all the way so it wasn't trigger the shell when I hit the button. As soon as I switch my technique, it worked fine. Noticed it when experimenting with it when my shotgun was on the setup table. Was trying to decide if I wanted to continue loading 8 and then putting one in the chamber when I was prepping my stage, or out 9 in the tube and just rack it at the prep. It was being inconsistent whether it would release a shell or not. Had one of the more experienced guys show me what I was doing wrong (my first match). Ran two stages starting with 9 in the tube and using the shell release with zero issues.

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  6. C-RUMS modified lifter came back today! As you can see i have it back together. With the lifter out i wasn't able to practice loading my new nordic +5 mag. So I put it together and got out my dummy rounds. loaded one in the chamber, loaded 10 in the mag tube. All is good. To make sure I put it all back together right, I pulled the trigger. The mag tube immediately dumps a shell onto the lifter. So is this "normal" or did I put it back together wrong? I don' t remember it doing this prior to pulling it apart.

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  7. I had thought about doing that before buying my 1301. Realized I would be about a 1/3 of the way to the 1301 once I got all the mods done on my 870, so I just kept saving for it. My goal this year is going to be to learn my 1301 by shooting it for everything (not to mention learning sg). I may look into a longer barrel at a later date. So I know most who go with the 3/4 choke do it so they are changeable with out a tool. Why would some one want a 2" extended choke? The general thoughts on this board seem to be it's not like it's going to make my 24 shoot any more like a 26 from the sounds of it? I am really shooting clays for practice on moving targets more so then picking up another hobby. I am looking to pick up the modified for shooting steel (full choke with steel) at birds and give me an additional option for 3gun.

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  8. So i am in the same boat here. I am pretty new to sg in general. Started with a 870 tactical (18") and couldn't hit the broad side of a barn let alone flying clays. I am sure a good bit of this is me being new to shot guns as i am sure an experienced guy could pick it up and smoke plenty of them. I recently bought a 1301C (24") and gave skeet another try last week. I did considerably better but still a new shooter making plenty of mistakes, as the guy teaching was very good and pointed them out for me. I also wondered about using a 2 inch choke in mine. One of the guys at the gun club was telling me the longer choke allows a smoother transition of the shot through the cone and lowers the "impact or shock" of the sudden tightening of a standard choke. No idea how much this "felt" by the shooter. I was originally thinking of getting the 2" modified choke for duck hunting with it this fall. Is it worth going this route for clays/ducks at all or just stick with the a standard choke? The mass distribution makes sense to me and just adding a 2 inch steel choke to the end will add mass, be it all at the end. Looks like the price difference between a 3/4" and 2" is only $5. Just trying to avoid buying and testing as much as i can as i just bought the gun, the nordic +5, and got my lifter welded. Would prefer not to buy 2 modified chokes when i could buy two different chokes.

  9. I took a chance and ordered from Impact Guns a few weeks ago. The website said "on backorder" 12 hours later but my FFL received the shotgun about 10 days after I ordered it. $1299, no tax for NC, free shipping. That was the only instance I saw them online for < 1300. Anything under $1400 seems like a decent deal at the moment.

    Was just in Impact Guns 2 weeks ago and they had one on the shelf. Not surprised you got it already

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