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kmca

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Posts posted by kmca

  1. Thanks, it seems like one of those times not to mess with a good thing. Anything that affects the safety is not an option as far as I'm concerned (like that 10-8 extension without an extended blast tube?!). Changing tubes really isn't that big of a deal, and I can figure out something to do with the buzzer when it drives me to the point of insanity (maybe a new speaker from Radio Shack is all it needs).

    I don't know what I was talking about with the plastic arm - I do flip it out of the way, I think I just noticed the arm and the primer weight tube seem a bit flimsy.

    One of my alarms quit working, so, with Dillon's famous warranty, they sent me a new one. The new one has a much softer "beep". The old one was loud, the new one is just loud enough to let me know it''s time for a refill.

  2. UPDATE:

    After I drove the pin deeper, I had to take a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and very carefully cut about 1/8 inch off the pin, drove it doesn further, cut another 1/8th off and continued until it was all the way through. It took a while because I didn't want to nick the receiver. I cut a new pin so that it's flush with the bottom of the receiver. In the future, if I need to remove the latch again, I'll take a solid pin, about 1/8" long, slightly smaller than the hole, and drive the pin out the bottom far enough to grab it with vise grips.

    Anyway..thanks for all the help.

  3. Put down the drill.

    Is the pin solid or hollow?

    Inside the receiver do you see a small slit across and perpendicular to the feed latch pin area?

    Is the feed latch and pin on the ejection port side of the gun?

    It's a hollow pin on the side opposite the ejection port. You sure get up early or stay up late :bow:

  4. Ok, I found the problem and I was rather ignorant in my explanation. I went to my local Bass Pro store and looked at another Versamax. The left handed version (which is what I have and failed to mention) is NOT a mirror image of the right hand version. The hole in the right handed ejection port is clearly visible. Mine doesn't have one. So, the only thing I can do is drill out the pin. There is no through hole to drive the pin through. Any way...thanks all for your input :)

  5. It is held with a roll pin. You need a thin, relatively long punch and tap it out. It will eventually come up through the hole in the ejection port. I tap them out just so the shell latch is released and never completely remove the roll pin.

    Thank you. I guess I was having a "stupid moment". Did you happen to leave the inner latch spring out when you replaced the latch? My bolt release button is very hard to push.

    Ok, I tapped the pin until it touches the action rail and it doesn't release the latch???? It seems the pin might be too long?

  6. Any Deals on Pro Ears? I need a set....

    Jacketed 180gr. .40 bullets?

    http://www.proears.com/

    Wednesday only though.

    I would need about 70% off to afford a pair of their custom plugs. Wish the price of electronic plugs would come down.
    They occasionally have a $500 off sale during the year, if you have patience. I wouldn't mind (too much) paying for those ear plugs, but I've tried in ear electronics before and was disappointed in the sound quality. And, the guarantees from most places don't cover custom fit plugs :(

    I'm gonna assume you didn't try the sport ear 360s or the Extremes?

    That would be correct

  7. Any Deals on Pro Ears? I need a set....

    Jacketed 180gr. .40 bullets?

    http://www.proears.com/

    Wednesday only though.

    I would need about 70% off to afford a pair of their custom plugs. Wish the price of electronic plugs would come down.

    They occasionally have a $500 off sale during the year, if you have patience. I wouldn't mind (too much) paying for those ear plugs, but I've tried in ear electronics before and was disappointed in the sound quality. And, the guarantees from most places don't cover custom fit plugs :(

  8. Do the Pro ears completely cut out when there's a loud noise or do they just lower the volume?

    Lower the volume. But it reacts and recovers so fast, it's almost like they turn off

  9. I've got a 24 inch on one shotgun and I like it. I'm considering getting a particular backup gun, but the only one I can find has a 28 inch barrel and I can't find any shorter barrels. I plan on at least a 10 round exetension. My queston, is it worth the $400 or $500 to get it shortened and re-choked at 24 inches?

    :surprise:

    Who, may I ask, gets $400 + for that kind of work?

    (my kid's college fund can use that type of pricing)

    It's an quote I got from Americhoke. That was for shortening the barrel, rethreading it for the screw in chokes and removing the rib.

  10. Ideally, the barrel would be flush or a little shorter than the mag extension.

    Why?

    aesthetics mainly, it also keeps the carbon off the mag extension.

    I run a 26 with a 12 round tube. The tube sticks out probably 5" or 6" past the barrel. I dont see a point in a short barrel when the tube is way out there. Even if you had a 28" you would be fine and the mag will still extend past the barrel.

    Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

    Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear.

  11. A 629 machined for FMCs? What kind of game were you going to play with that?

    Speed bear shooting?

    I'm not surprised that it wouldn't time-up with a broken trigger stud. With the trigger out of position, the hand (attached to the trigger) and the cylinder stop won't be timed properly. Just have them fix the stud and it should work as it did when you got it.

    It works anywhere the 625 works. I have one cut for clips and load 44 Russian.

    Meh....those thin, fragile moonclips do not work as well as .45 ACP moons.

    I haven't really noticed any big difference between 44 and 45 clips. When someone steps on either, they both fold over :surprise:

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