ewokUk

Thanks Dave, I wonder which would fit a Taurus??? Mike

Thanks Nick, much appreciated I had ingored these as I thought they were muzzel only! But...What's the difference between .45 ACP-1 cylinder & .45 ACP-2 cylinder??? Thanks again Mike

Hi guys, what's the part number? I can remember seeing it, but can't find it anymore, not even in a search on their web site ? Thanks in advance Mike

A click is better than nothig at all! Last year I shot the Dutch open with a borrowed .40 cal auto (I normally shoot revolver). I don't know why but when loading on one stage I had problems getting the mag to seat & it took several attemts. Anyhow once I got it in, I put the safety on & holstered. On the beep I drew, pulled the trigger & got nothing at all, no click, nothing- I checked that I'd knocked the safety off & pulled again. Again nothing. I was stumped I had no idea what was wrong so I racked it & nothing ejected. Trying to shoot an empty chamber just dosen't work! With all the problems getting the mag to seat I had just plain forgotten to rack the gun before holstering! I should have realized that something was wrong when the RO waited a good long time after asking if I was sure that I was ready I think I'll stick to revolvers in the future.

Shoot fast & call your shots! It's actually harder than it looks in the avitar, as it dosen't repeat any cycle, it's got an almost random motion that slows down & then speeds up almost ramdomly as well! The main problem in getting it accepted was proving that it was the same for each shooter. Hours of work with a video camera managed to prove it, but later we discovered that if the target got damp & dried out during the competition, the motion did change. We got around that by adding a no-shoot target to the opposite end of the limb that holds the target. For airpistols (Co2 & air cartridge) you can wear the timer or your belt (assuming you are practicing on your own), with the quieter airsoft guns you need to get an RO to run the timer quite close, around your ear or shoulder. Unfortunately this encourages gamesmanship & needs a very agile & fast RO to avoid being run into by a shooter who wants a re-shoot.

Hi, Over here in Uk we have to use Airsoft & CO2 guns instead of the real thing. As said above the CED 6000 & 8000 work, although you have to turn the sensitivity of the 6000 up to the point wher it's own start beep, registers & then just a touch back! Also, R U Ready Electronics produce an airsoft version of their normal timer, available through the Sleeping Tigers, one of the main Practical pistol organizations in UK. Hope this helps Mike

For last year's Nordic open match, I borrowed a 686 with the hammer spur totally removed, so I assume it's legal!

Hi Keith, Have you tried any of Bob's or Tony's smoothed TACS? I know when I started using my stainless steel tapered ones, my reloading times became a lot more consistant, if not faster (lack of practice). Ooops, I just noticed your original posting date. Did you ever chamfer the mouths of your chambers? I didn't do it on the Brococks because the ejection star looks too thin, but what about your Taurus? BTW Guys, "doing not too badly" means Keith is one of the top 3 in UK. Mike

Sorry if this a dumb question, but why does reducing the OAL, remove the unburnt powder problem?

Thanks for the comments guys, Yup you got me 'Bang to Right's', I'm from the opposite side of the pond where we've got some wierd & wonderful gun laws In fact the gun laws here got even more stupid this year when the government made Self-Contained Air Cartridge guns totally illegal. If you already owned some, you were allowed to apply for a licence to keep them, but after that, buying, importing, trading & making them is totally illegal. Yes guys, we are talking about air rifles & pistols here. These particular ones are now classified the same as machine guns & rocket launchers and only two gun dealers in the whole of the UK are licenced to do repair work on them. The only saving grace is that I am allowed to work on the gun myself, or some Police departments will allow any machine shop to do the work if I am present whilst it is being done. I've had a look at the TK Customs web site (that's where I ordered the moonclips from) & the list of instructions dosen't seem to be there any more, but if it's as simple as 'machine out enough metal for the clip to sit in', then I should be able to manage it. Below is a link to pictures of some of my Air Cartridge guns: Air Cartridge Revolvers The top one is a Taurus, middle is a Brocock Target Trophy and bottom a Brocock Specialist. All are .38/.22 caliber (.38 air cartridge chambers & .22 barrel) and I use them for IPSC style shooting here in UK. I'll keep you posted on how the project works. Mike

Thanks Bill, I was wondering if the star ejector had to me machined, because the ones in the air cartridge revolvers are pretty thin to start with. Mike

Another dumb question: Just where & what is machined when a cylinder is converted to take moon-clips? The reason that I'm asking is that I want to convert an air-cartridge revolver to moonclip operation & I'm probably going to have to use a normal (non-gunsmith) engineering company to do it. Thanks in anticipation Mike

Thanks Peter, I had though about surface grinding as my company had a similar problem with some shims about a month ago. The problem was that the metal is so thin that the magnetic table couldn't hold them securely enough. A combined mechanical stop/magnetic table might do the job but the tooling costs would go through the roof. Currently, I have appraoched a well known moon-clip company who are looking into the finances of doing a limited production run in 22 thou. If not too expensive this could solve the problem. Mike

The quick answer is probably, but since we had our normal pistols taken away, there are very few gunsmiths still in business who do revolver work. I have been looking for one who can convert an "air cartridge" revolver to moonclip operation for the past six months, but haven't found one yet.

Thanks for all the replies guys, you've given me plenty of things to try. Answereing your comments: Patrick - We haven't approached Taurus yet, as in the past they have never bothered answering any emails (or even orders) that don't come from their main importer. Round_gun_shooter - Thanks for the offer, I might have to come back to you on this. At present we are trying to find out just what .45ACP brass is available in Uk. Since we had our pistols banned it hasn't been too common. Spook - Well I'm in the process of getting one, you know the licencing problems we have here! It is a custom gun as are all of the Taurus revolvers made for the UK. Aparrently the 12" models are made in Brazil & shipped to Germany where they go through the legal process & then they get shipped to UK. I even have one with .38 chambers & a .22 barrel! Eric - This was my first thought, I'm working on making a holder/jig to put them on a belt sander at the moment, but would rather do this "properly" if the right gear is available. Henry - Thanks for the suggestion, I had never heard of Auto Rim Brass. But one of the reasons for getting the Mooncliped LBR in .45ACP was so that I could get some practice in using them. I have arranged to borrow a S&W 625 for the IPSC world championships next year & I thought it might be prudent to get some loading practice in before the event! Again, thanks for all your help, I'll let you know what works. Mike

Hi Guys, This is my first post here so please excuse the dum questions. Here in the UK we aren't allowed hand guns but some of the long barreled revolvers are legal under our gallery rifle regulations as long as the barrel is longer than 12" and the overall length is greater than 24" and it's one of these that I've got problems with. The gun is a Taurus 6 shot .45 ACP & the moon clips that come with it are 22 thou thick and hold the brass a little too loose. It's possible to get 5 shells partially in & have one missaligned so everything jams up. I've tried some 40 thou thick clips (I think they came from a 625) & they hold the shells perfectly, dropping into the clyinder every time, but being .40 thou thick they stop the cylinder from closing. Is there anywhere that supplies moonclips in unusual sizes or different thicknesses? Or could this be sorted by trying different brass? So far we've only tried IMI brass. Or are there any other cures for this? Thanks Mike