Scratchthejeepguy

While you got the drill out... Drill a little hole in the back side for a plastic model paintbrush like this for cleaning up spilt powder: And one more tip I like is to grab a sharpie and write this on your primer check buzzer, (your count may be different though) (The .45ACP case is on there for a little extra weight, for those that haven't heard about that trick yet...)

But you're also going to want to stop the flow of empty cases coming down the tube right...? Get an empty 38 special case and stick it right here: Then store it right here so you don't lose it:

...but I have another idea that I like... Make yourself one of these things. A hole is drilled for the primer index tooth to fall into. It raises the primer index tooth up off from the primer plate. It's made from like 1/16" steel and bent at a 90* angle. Here it is ready to be installed: And here it is installed: When you're not using it, I store it on this cut off nail that I drilled into the frame:

I know this was posted many years ago, but I want to make sure I am understanding the suggestion. I want to adjust the powder measure so that I can do 10 powder drops and then measure the total powder and divide by 10 while there are still primers present in the feeder. So, shred is suggesting that the "black plastic angle part" be removed when doing this. Does anyone know which part this is on the Dillon website schematic of the Primer System Assembly? A part on a different one of their schematics? I think he's talking about this part to remove...

Yes, we follow all safety rules. When I say don't we don't get hung up on all the rules, I mean stuff like: some people don't draw from concealment if they're not comfortable. Some people shoot revolvers, when others shoot semi autos, because that's all they have. Some people shoot .22LR. Some people don't even have holsters so they shoot from a low ready position, etc... Thanks Davsco for posting that info. Does anyone have any input as to 3 gun or something involving a rifle? I've heard that the RO will take the rifle at the end of a stage or something like that...?

Wasn't sure where to post this since there are separate sections for each so I'll just leave this here so I don't start a bunch of different threads. Mods feel free to move... I have a small private range on my property, and a few friends and I get together at least once a week to do some shooting. We have steel and paper targets, barrels, V-Tac walls, moveable walls with windows, etc... We usually shoot pistol in IDPA style format, and scoring, but only one of us has actually competed in IDPA so we’re going by what he remembers shooting with, as far as round count in mags, drawing from concealment, range commands etc… We’re pretty informal and don’t get too hung up on breaking the rules and stuff, but we do want to keep it as close to some sort of organized rules as possible. We've decided (for now) to follow IDPA rules and guidelines. Nobody gets DQ’d from the matches or has to go home, but we do call each other on all the rules that we can, including procedural mistakes if any are made. What I’m really looking for is range commands and procedures, for IDPA, USPSA, Multi-gun, etc… I think we have it down pretty well for IDPA, but we recently started incorporating carbines into our fun, and we’re a little confused as to some of the commands. Please make any corrections, (if you see any) to update what we use now for our current IDPA range commands, and let me know what they do for the other shooting sports, especially the ones with rifles and shotguns involved. (for example: “Slide forward” on a carbine…?) IDPA RANGE COMMANDS: (Shooter and RO walk up to the first position. Pistol holstered and completely empty.) (Shooter has 10 rounds in spare mags, on belt and 11 rounds in first mag in hand, pocket etc..) RO: “Does the shooter know and understand the course of fire?” SHOOTER: “Yes.” RO: “Load and make ready.” SHOOTER: (Shooter un-holsters pistol, loads first mag and racks slide, then re-holsters it) RO: (Watches shooter making sure shooter doesn't break 180, touch trigger, etc..) RO: “Shooter ready?” SHOOTER: “Yes,” (or knod) RO: “Standby…” RO: “BEEP” (RO starts timer) --Course is shot by shooter, who is followed by RO, looking for signs of unsafe firearm handling-- RO: “Is the shooter finished?” (Is this said...?) SHOOTER: “Yes.” RO: “Unload and show clear” SHOOTER: (Ejects mag if it still has rounds in it, stores the mag, pulls slide back either locking it back or holding it open to show RO that the chamber is empty and nothing in mag) RO: (Visually inspects chamber and mag – if still in gun – for any ammo) RO: “Slide forward.” SHOOTER: (Shooter points weapon in safe direction, and releases slide) RO: “Hammer down.” SHOOTER: (Shooter points weapon in safe direction, and pulls trigger) RO: “Holster” SHOOTER: (Shooter holsters weapon) RO: “Range is clear.” (Calls out time or shows scorekeeper) SHOOTER: (can pick up mags, ejected round, etc…) (Targets can now be taped, painted, reset, etc…)

what rules?

Nice, I can't wait to go to my first match!

Thanks guys. I figured as much. I've heard everyone is very friendly and helpful to noobs like me, and I wanted to get in on the fun.

I've never been in a 3 gun competition, but would like to try. I have most of the gear I think I'll need, but I don't have a 3 gun belt. I do have a good battle belt that I got in a prize package once though... But it's a battle belt, and I don't want to look like some wannabe tactical idiot. I have a G-code SOC rig holster, some HSGI taco pouches for pistol and rifle on it, and some other stuff I'd remove for a competition. I even have a Gunner Solutions EZ8 shell caddy I can throw on. I'm still getting used to it... But it's gotta help. My question is, does anyone show up at matches using battle belts? I'd like to try 3 gun, but I don't want to go spend money on a belt system, if I end up not liking it a ton. I'm very comfortable, and have some good practice doing reloads on pistol and rifle using this current battle belt system, and there's plenty of room in the front for my EZ8 shell caddy, I just don't want to look like some mall ninja. I probably never would have gotten the belt if I didn't get such a great deal on it. So.. How often do you see people using battle belts at 3 gun comps?

Well that was simple. After taking it apart and actually figuring out what is actually happening, I realized that yes... Both options would work. I am a very good welder, but thought that grinding the rear edge of the groove would be easier, and it would have to be ground to bare metal in order to get a good weld anyways, so I thought I'd do that first, and if it didn't work, I could always weld it. About 2 minutes with the Dremel and some fine sandpaper and it's done. Works perfectly! With my plus 7 tube, I can now hold 12 shells! Thanks all!

Yes, I've used the search function... On here and on Google. I have a Benelli M2 that I want to modify, to be able to ghost load it. I've seen a bunch of threads that tell me I need to take a Dremel to the rear U shaped channel on the bolt to smoothe and round off the rear edge. I've also seen a bunch of threads where they tell me I need to completely fill in that same channel with weld or (with limited success...) JB weld. Which is it? Maybe I'm missing something... Is one for the Benelli and one for the Stoeger? Will either one work? Am I confusing one method with some other mod? Is one better than the other? I don't get it....?

Im hoping to get some advice on belts. Not serpentine belts, vacuum belts, or even standard gun belts, but something more along the lines of battle belts, or 3 gun belts. This is what I want to accomplish... I think... Sorry in advance for the extremely long post. I want to be able to, (and I hate this term...) "Run and gun" on my property. I have a small course set up right now, running down a hill, ending up at my pistol range, engaging about 18 targets. Some at short distances like 7 yards using a pistol, and some at distances up to 100 yards with a rifle. The pistol are steel targets, the rifle are paper targets. This course takes a fat, overweight, out of shape, uncoordinated guy like me who falls a lot, about 3 minutes to complete right now. And when I say right now I mean in the summer because I dont do much besides watch TV, and stare blankly at the wall, in the winter. Ive ran this course using my G17 and my AR, and its very fun. It also seems to be very good exercise going up and down that hill, which is another reason I want to do it. The problem is I dont have a real good way to hold spare mags. I have a few IWB holsters, and a paddle Serpa, for that pistol, along with a dual mag pouch for the pistol mags, but would like to step it up a notch and go with some sort of belt system. Most of the shooting I do lately is pistol, and would fall under the IDPA style of training, but I told myself I was going to start doing more training this coming summer with the rifle and transitions, so I guess that would be considered multigun. Now Im not much of a shotgun lover, but recently acquired a lightly modded Benelli M2, so Im sure there will be some shotgun stuff added to the course as well. Im not so concerned about shell carriers yet though. If I do end up loving the shotgun part of 3 gun style shooting, Ill end up buying a dedicated 3 gun belt setup with inner and outer belts, shell carriers, etc... For now... lets say I dont have a shotgun. Basically my question is should I get a battle belt or a 3 gun style belt system? I know that most of the 3 gun belts have an inner belt that loops through your pant belt loops, with Velcro on the outside. Then you attach, by Velcro, the outer belt with all your gear on it, to that. I also realize one advantage of the 3 gun belt is that you can place items directly in front where a belt buckle would go which I like a lot. I also like the fact that the 3 gun belts have the inner belt which already holds up your pants... With a battle belt... You'd need to have another belt to do that right? Since I like to show at least 4 inches of my Tommy Hilfiger boxers at all times like all the cool kids do... I may have a problem there though... Some advantages of the battle belt that I see are: 1. Wanna go shoot? Grab the belt, one clip and its on... boom you're ready. 2. You don't have to thread the inner belt on your regular pants, and then attach the outer belt. This can be advantageous for just a quick hour of shooting, not to mention the emergency or SHTF type scenarios. Speaking of SHTF...I may also want to get some sort of chest rig for that. I'm not a Doomsday Prepper or anything, but: I like to be prepared... I secretly enjoy the mall commando aspect of it... and I have a little extra funding right now so I might as well go full out right? I've tried running my course with my IWB holster and it was just no fun doing transitions with an IWB holster and a slung rifle. Im scared of my Serpa holster, but I do have one of those cheaper tactical vests that I got as a gift. The ones you see at Cheaper than Dirt for like 60 bucks... It has lots of mag pouches, a belt, and a universal thigh holster, but I dont like how low the holster is, and there's no retention other than the strap which is a pain to use while moving. I tried the vest once, but I probably wont be using it again. It looks cool though... Also the mag pouches on the vest are difficult to get to. They have Velcro flaps which are slow to access and "tactically" loud which sucks when Im on a silent but deadly mission to get to the Oreo cookies without my kids noticing. But I know that during a firefight, the loudness of Velcro isn't going to be an issue. So Im looking for some type of system that is easy and fast, to access spare mags for my rifle and pistol. I like the idea of the battle belt because: 1. Its easy to grab and put on, when I go to the range. 2. Quick to put on if I have 15 minutes to do some reload drills or something down stairs. 3. Will fashion coordinate with a future chest rig. 4. I can attach SHTF stuff like knives, med kits, lollipops, etc.. 5. I like to say the phrase Battle Belt But I like the 3 gun belt because: 1. I feel that if I ever do compete in an actual 3 gun match, I think that the 2 belt system is more secure. 2. It will hold my pants up better without the need for another belt. 3. I can put things exactly where I need them, like condoms, right above my wee wee. I'm assuming I could use a battle belt for 3 gun competitions, and if I really get into it, then I could get a dedicated 3 gun belt system. But do I have to wear a separate belt underneath just to keep my pants up? Then there's the holster thing I'm concerned with. I want to get a new OWB holster for this, since I fear for my life whenever I even "look" at the Serpa, but not sure what to go with. Should I go with a standard "friction retention" Kydex holster like I normally see on battle belts, or something like a Safariland or Blade-Tech, thumb break retention style holsters? I don't want my gun falling out, but I'm not sure If I need to go with a level 2 type retention or anything since the only thing I'm really at war with is mosquito's. Of course I know that if I ever did compete, and my gun goes AWOL Im DQ'd which will put me SOL and I will be PO'd but thats enough of that BS. I'm pretty sure if I go with a battle belt, I'm going with the HSGI battle belt with a 1.75" Cobra belt underneath. I'll probably go with their Taco pouches as well since I do like them. As far as a holster, I really like the G-Code holsters and their versatile RTI attachment points. If I go with a something more than friction retention, I'll go with their SOC holster. As far as 3 gun stuff, I can't decide between the CR Speed belts or the Blade Tech. Still trying to decide which route to go with, battle belt or 3 gun belt. I kind of "want" to go with the more tactical, and better for SHTF options, of the battle belt. For those 3 gunners out there, do you see people using "battle belts" during comps? So... Should I go with a battle belt or a 3 gun belt? Should I get an all kydex friction retention holster or a thumb break style holster? Or... should I sell all my guns so I dont have to worry about this and take up knitting?

Mine just came in a few days ago, and I sighted it in today. A little heavier than I thought, but seems to be consistent so far, and I'm very happy with it for the price.

Hey you 3 gunners out there... I'm looking for some opinions on a shotgun. I'm thinking either the Benelli M2 or the Remington Versamax. I like the Benelli because it's a lighter gun and I think their inertia system may be more reliable... But I like the larger loading port of the Versamax and am also thinking the extra weight of the Versamax might be better for felt recoil. I'm seriously considering picking up one of the Remington Versamax Competition Tactical. It already has a factory "welded" lifter, an 8+1 tube with a 10+1 extension, oversized bolt Handle, safety and charging button. And I like the adjustable comb height, and QD mounts too. What's the overall consensus of this gun? http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/tactical/shotguns/versa-max-competition-tactical.aspx

So I've been organizing them with the plastic ammo trays like in the video that Razorfish linked and it works great, thanks to Razorfish by the way... Then I lightly and quickly spray them with lube, let them dry, and dump into the hopper of my 650XL. The thing runs like butter. No sticking at all. I love it. But sometimes the inside of the case still isn't dry, and when I go to measure the powder on a random check, the powder sticks inside the case. Is this a problem at all? Is there a solution?

I also use One Shot on pistol cases but I generally try to keep the lube from getting inside the mouths of the cases. Enough lube gets on the mouth of the cases to keep the powder funnel lubed but too much leads to powder sticking to the inside of the case walls. No real problem, but can get a little messy with some powders. Anyway, if you wanting to get cases to stand up, here's a link to a video that will show you a "trick" to getting cases to it quick and easy: Wow... Thanks for sharing that video! I don't shoot .40 but will be getting some of those for sure! That's exactly what I need for this.

Yes, shinier cases means cleaner cases. The cleaner the case is, the less air resistance there is on them, as they move up inside the magazine. If the cartridge moves faster, between shots, then I can have faster split times, and won't outrun the firearm with my trigger finger. If The shooter has more time between shots available, now the shooter has more time to gain a correct sight picture and get correct sight alignment, resulting in more A zone hits, at faster times. This has all been proven many times on the internet so I won't go into details as I'm sure you've read about it already... Nutnfancy has an hour long video about it I'm sure, if you'd like to know more...

I reloaded a bunch of 9mm but sprayed the mouths with One Shot before hand. The problem is completely gone. I'll be doing that from now on. Any ideas on how to get them to all stand up before I spray them? I've been dumping about 50-75 in a round cake pan and swirl-shaking them until about 75% of them stand up, then a quick shot of OS. Looking for a more effective method though...

Well it looks like time was probably a factor in my non shiny brass. I did three more batches in the last few days. 700 cases each batch. Same amount of lemi shine and dish soap in all of them. The batch on the left was in for exactly 2 hours. Much more shiny than what I was getting, but still had some dullness to them. The right batch was 2-1/2 hours The middle batch was 3 hours. I think I'm going to go with 3 hours from now on. Not sure why I'm having this problem now though since I used to go 5-6 hours all the time, and my rifle brass look even shinier than these do at 6 hours. Still I like the shorter tumble times so I'll be trying my rifle brass at 3 hours as well.

Do you add that into the wet tumbler?

I'll try a shorter run on my next batch, but that's the way I've been doing them and as you can see in the picture... They've been coming out super shiny. I hope a shorter tumble time works great, it would be nice to not have to tumble so long.

What about after wet tumbling, toss them in the vibratory tumbler for 10 minutes or so, with some sort of lube. Maybe a dry lube or something, or just a squirt of polish... No media in the tumbler though. That way I wouldn't have to sift them again, or have corn cob media falling out of the hopper. Anyone done anything like that?

That is a very long time for wet tumbling with SS.Might take a look at them after 30 min. Yours get clean and shiny after a half hour!?I guess I've never checked them that soon, but they might be good, I used to go a minimum of 4 hours, but it works out good for me to leave them in for 6 hours since it works with my schedule. The ten hour thing is when I forget about them and they go overnight (like last night...) Maybe on my next batch of rifle cases, I'll try a short half hour run and see if they come out as shiny as they do when I go 6 hours. Then go up in time until they do.

No, not on my 9mm. Never have, never had this problem before.