G19

Thanks!

Definitely an option. Price wouldn't be much more than the Bladetech Classic DOH, and I'm guessing it is a more rigid setup. I take it the Revolution mounting holes line up with the "Y" piece of the BOSS hanger? Do all the Bladetech OWB holsters use the same mounting hole pattern?

Thanks, I didn't realize the DOH was an option on that holster model, but it's right there in the dropdown menu.

I have a G-Code OSH holster, and I was wondering if this would be compatible with Tek-Lok. The center-to-center distance between the top and bottom hole is 1.5" (maybe just a hair shy); center-to-center distance between the left and right top holes is 0.75" (maybe just a hair shy). https://i.imgur.com/2IcUA0z.jpg Can someone please take a look and see what the hole spacing is on their Tek-Lok? If it does mate up, that might be a way of getting a nice rigid attachment using my existing holster (which came with a paddle). But I suppose there's no way to work in a drop - looks like the hole spacing on the Bladetech drop and offset piece is very different.

BladeTech no longer lists this particular holster on their website, so I guess these are being phased out. I'm guessing the one on Amazon is for the 4-1/4" barrel, and the muzzle end would need to be opened up for a 5" barrel. Seems like their current models are the Revolution and the ICE. And both can be set up with the drop/offset piece. Do you know if the Pro 5" and 9L (also 5") use the same holsters? Or does the Pro have slightly different shaping in areas that affect holster fit?

Thanks.

I was looking around for a holster for my M&P9L that would work on a competition belt and I saw this on Amzn: Blade-Tech DOH Dropped and Offset Belt Holster S&W M&P Tek-Lok Kydex Black. But wouldn't it be cheaper to get both the REVOLUTION S&W M&P holster and the D/OS TEK-LOK setup? Seems like this combo gets you everything the first package has, plus it gives you two additional attachment mechanisms - the paddle and the ASR belt slide - and does so at a lower price. Am I missing something? Is the holster in the first package somehow better than the Revolution holster? I'm fairly clueless about this type of gear so any info would be welcome!

Thanks for the info. We're all getting in the same ballpark for what this would run to ship. Fortunately I was able to sell locally, so that saved me the hassle of shipping.

Thanks Sarge. I had estimated $75 when someone PM'ed me about shipping to Florida, thinking it would require 2 relatively large boxes.

I'm selling a XL650 and someone inquired about shipping. Anyone have experience with this? How much did it cost? I'm guessing it would be cheaper to ship in at least 2 boxes (one for the casefeeder, and another for the press itself), not to mention easier to find appropriately sized boxes as well as packing everything securely. Also, it seems with some disassembly (e.g., separating strong mount, bullet tray, the arm, powder drop, etc.) you could get a lot of parts that would fit in a large flat rate box (or regional rate B box for those familiar with it), which would significantly reduce the weight of the box containing the press. Anyone have experience shipping a casefeeding progressive press?

If I had a LCP or Bodyguard or similar, I wouldn't bother reloading .380 because I would only shoot enough to keep familiar with the gun and how it shoots. But a G42 is fun to shoot. Same here - just needed that ridiculously overpriced casefeed adapter for .380, in addition to the dies.

I tried to load .380 with SR7625, but that doesn't burn fast enough and thus requires too much powder to cycle. Switched to Titegroup and was able to use less powder. Bullet: 100gr 0.355" (Berry's I think) OAL: 0.965" Powder: Titegroup, 2.9gr cycles barely, went to 3.0gr for more reliable cycling Primer: WSP @Force, not sure what you're crimping to, but SAAMI specs for .380acp is 0.373" at case mouth. Taper crimp should be very slight - 0.001 - 0.002", so for .380, should be 0.371-0.372" at case mouth.

Everyone talks about how easy it is to change calibers. Yet so many end up with another press to avoid exactly this. I don't enjoy changing calibers, and try to load a lot in one caliber (so that I won't have to swap right back) before changing to another.

Has anyone ignited powder by vacuuming up small quantities of spilled powder from a shellplate?

Loaded some .380acp the other day and after I finished, I noticed it sounded like some cases were left in the hopper, likely under the plate since I had run the casefeeder until no more cases dropped. Today, I checked under the plate - no cases there, so I removed the casefeeder, shook it around a little, and here are the cases: I guess the microswitch malfunctioned and cases fed too high? Edit: There were 12 cases in there and they were all 9mm! The last few times I've loaded have all been .380, so these got in there a while back. i guess I only noticed now because after the recent loading session, I moved the press and that's when I heard cases rolling around and figured they were under the plate.

That has me thinking. It'd be easy to epoxy the washer back together. I've got a spare parts kit and a spare shoulder washer. Just getting tired of breaking these things.

I think I had it even looser than that, but will try this method next time, thanks. Pops out in that the washer drops below the bracket? When this happens, do you notice greater resistance in subsequent strokes (I noticed that just before the washer snapped), which I assume is the washer being squeezed at an angle against the bottom of the bracket?

I've snapped the failsafe rod shoulder washer (white plastic piece in pic, ignore incorrect positioning above bracket, just a pic I grabbed off the internet) a couple of times. Not sure what I'm doing wrong that is causing this to happen. Any ideas?

Thanks, you nailed it. Ouch! It was a batch of outdoor range brass, getting/staying wet was probably what happened. Fortunately, it was only a very small % of the cases. It was only ~1% of the cases, and I have more cases from the same batch, so now that I know what's going on, easiest thing is just to toss those cases when they pop up at station 2 (XL650).

Loaded up some .380ACP on the XL650 using Lee dies. I had several cases where the decapping pin separated the back of the old primer from its body, leaving the walls of the old primer stuck in the case. The brass was purchased in bulk from a guy on another forum who sells pickup range brass. Anyone run into this? Maybe there was some corrosion that caused the primer walls to bind to the case? What would cause that?

I received the photo interrupter and have everything wired up, but finding that it doesn't take much ambient light for the sensor to detect it (which also makes it impossible for a round to 'interrupt' the light detected by the sensor). From your pic, it looks like your sensor isn't shielded from ambient light. Does your reloading setup end up casting a shadow over the sensor? Or maybe you are using fluorescent lighting (no IR, or much less IR than incandescent light)? Edit: I wrapped a good portion of both the sensor and emitter with electrical tape to limit the directions the triggering light can come from. It's low enough that rounds cannot scoot under, but even with the blue tape across the top of the chute, I'm having some rounds bouncing over. This is with .380 acp, so it might be less of an issue with larger rounds. I'll have to create a gate/dampener that progressively (as the round makes its way down the chute) lowers the ceiling on how high the round can bounce.

I am using 2 sets of Lee dies with Dillon lockrings on top of the toolhead. Both sets are relatively new, so that might be part of the issue per Dillon's comment:

Will remove the washer, thanks!

Loaded up some .380acp and had a couple of cases get under the small pistol casefeed plate (they then roll to the bottom of the slanted casefeed hopper). I've experienced this with 9mm before, but that seemed to happen when there was a jam at the mouth of the tube, which may have wedged the plate up a little bit, allowing room for the cases to slip under the plate. With .380, no jams and still have cases getting under the plate. Anyone else experiencing this? I do have the large washer installed underneath the plate as per the Dillon manual.

Thanks. So you deprime the live primers and discard them?