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b18prl

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Posts posted by b18prl

    Stock 2 has a jam.....

    in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)

    Posted

    Eliminate variables.

    Check Extractor hook, check Extractor spring, clean Extractor channel, check ejector strike-point. Chrono loads

    Is the empty case striking the local of the ejection port? If so, it will bounce back up into the path of the closing slide.

    That sounds kinda like it.

    Sear help on Stock 3

    in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)

    Posted

    I've got the CGW disconnector (gunsmith fit) in one of my Stock 2's (the .40...just got the 9 so I haven't done anything with it yet - parts are on the way.) Since I've only worked on the one gun I can't say anything for sure...once I duplicate results on the 9 I'll feel more confident in what I'm about to say.

    Below is what I did to make the disconnector work with a 1 piece sear (not the 2 piece sear that comes in the Stock 2):

    - The pin hole needs to be reamed out - I used diamond bits that I got from Harbor Freight...the metal is hard as hell so it took some serious doing with the dremel and it ate a few of the bits. If you can get it to 3/32" you'll be in good shape.

    - Once I had the disconnector in the gun, the trigger wouldn't break on the DA pull...the hammer disengaged from the sear but wouldn't fall because the disconnector was still hung up on the trigger bar (the two didn't disconnect.) I very slightly stoned a break in the lower front edge of the disconnector and that resolved that issue...be very careful, though, because if you break that edge too much the trigger bar won't stay on the disconnector enough to actually pull the hammer back - it just slips right off the disconnector - and you'll have wasted a disconnector (I've done it.)

    - Those two things are all that I had to do to get the CGW disconnector to work (once I'd destroyed three figuring out what was happening.) A couple of notes... First, I think using the CGW disconnector eliminated the "stacking" feeling at the end of the DA trigger pull. It still stacks a little bit compared to the CZ Shadow I've got, but nowhere near to the degree that the 9mm (which was worked on by a respectable gunsmith, though not one known for Tanfoglio triggers) - with that gun, it's almost like you have no ability to tell when the hammer is going to drop...it's like it gets stuck for a split second and then drops. I think eliminating the stacking is a combination of going from 2 wings on the disconnector (on the stock disconnector) to 1 wing on the disconnector (the CGW part.) Second, I still have pre-travel in SA mode. I don't have that huge forward swing that some SA/DA triggers have (like a CZ without the SRT disconnector,) and the trigger stops going forward at the instant that the trigger bar pops up once it clears the lower left sear leg...but then from that point to the trigger break there's still about 3/16" of pre-travel. I think that's because the lower sear leg is angled like this / (bottom being farther forward than the rear) ...so the trigger bar has to come forward to clear the tip of the sear leg but then, when it's in it's highest position, is not flush with the sear leg and has to travel rearward before it engages the sear leg again. I need to play with shapes of the sear leg to try and eliminate that...which will require me to have a handful of sears...I think that angle on the sear leg is there to prevent the trigger bar from slipping off the sear leg before it actually pushes against it enough to rotate the sear.

    The first time I tried to install a CGW disconnector I was using the 2 piece sear that came in the gun, which was a mess. If you've got the muzzle pointed away from you and you look down, the left piece of the sear actually has two bottom legs - a long one on the left and a shorter one on the right. Because the CGW disconnector has a "wing" that is flush at the top of the disconnector, that short right sear leg runs right smack into wing and the trigger doesn't function...I had to grind the wing of the disconnector down until there was enough clearance for that right leg to clear the wing.

    I have one of CGW sitting around and trying to figure out how to make it work in my s2,

    thanks for sharing.

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