jringels

I just got off the phone with Customer Support, they will NOT send me or my smith the FP for replacement for free, the upper must be sent in. I can buy a new FP and they will send it This is an old Bulletin, I'm not sure why I didn't act on it when I first bought the gun.

does anyone know if the Safety Pin Upgrade listed in the Download Section at eaacorp.com is a new posting or old? my first witness is included in the serial #s affected. the posting says i have to send in my complete slide for eaa to replace the pin and that end users should never disassemble past field stripping, and never remove the firing pin. Really? is this just eaa covering their ass? i'd rather not send in my slide and wait for eaa to get around to it. does anyone know if they will just ship me the new pin, or ship one to my smith? thanks

Mine pops right out. Try jiggling the Fring Pin Safety.

How about the LPA MPS01-30? This is what is on the Sig 22LR Conversion. Jay from www.precisionsalesintl.com says that is the correct model for the Witness.

I have a new 10mm Full Size Steel Witness. I also have the 22LR Conversion. I am a new just-for-fun shooter and shoot the 22 much better. The 22 has the LPA blade sight, the 10mm has the Windage adjustable 3 dot. I would like to get a similar LPA sight for the 10mm, so that I am basically shooting the same gun, just with a different caliber. Does anyone have any experience with the LPA model TPU95TA ( http://www.precisionsalesintl.com/Product/TPU_product_page.html )or TR90TA ( http://www.precisionsalesintl.com/Product/TR_product_page.html ) on the Witness? It looks like either will fit though it looks like the TPU needs no milling of the slide. The $70 pricetag is in my price range. Thanks!

No FFL needed for the conversion kit. Cheaperthandirt.com may have them too. I got my .22 conversion from ctd.

No FFL needed for the conversion kit. Cheaperthandirt.com may have them too. I got my .22 conversion from ctd.

I bought 2 of the K45 from Cheaperthandirt. I can only jam 9 in there as well. No feed problems with Round nose FMJs, Federal or Tulu.

Looks good. Do you think there would be any mechanical issues with shooting this setup? I assume you did not put in the 6 inch's recoil spring and guide rod, it should be sticking out as well, no? I would mold a custom Kydex holster to fit the gun and the extended barrel/rod, to protect the two from bumping around and possibly bending the rod. Anybody have a 10mm 6" barrel for sale?

Ah, I get it! Time for a sawzall. Couch or wall, your choice.

I don't know the length, I am purchasing a new full frame steel 10 mm. I don't understand what you mean "past the breech face". I think the breech is supposed to line up fine, just the end of the barrel and the "recoil spring guide" would stick out the muzzle.

Thanks Cha-Lee. I didn't know it isn's a drop-in. I like to learn and this forum is a GREAT resource, but no substitute for a competent gunsmith. I think I have learned that I am at this point. I like fixing things and understanding how things work, but this can quickly become a safety issue. Thanks to all.

Are there any issues with installing a 6" barrel in a regular length slide? I am thinking about adding a 6" match grade barrel to my 10mm Full Steel Witness (picking up the gun TODAY me hopes) for hunting. The receptionist at EAA said you can't do that. Dawn at EAA said no problem, the barrel will stick out past the slide, but if I am ok with the looks of that, no problem. Is there any problems with doing so? Thank you!

Thanks Skydiver. I edited my post from yesterday to include the fact that holding the bar to the right allows the SA to function fine WHEN I PULL THE TRIGGER. It must have something to do with the sear because when I put back the original/worn sear, it does not matter if I move the bar left/right, the SA pull works fine.

I do not know how to tell if it is hitting the 1/2 cock hook or the disconnector. Do you mean "interruptor"? I see one of those on the parts diagram . With the new sear in and the gun fully cocked, if I push down on the long leg of the sear, the hammer falls fine. ALSO, if I push the 'trigger bar' to the right side of the frame, the hammer falls fine! If I push the bar to the left, or leave it alone, the hammer stops at the 1/2 hooks. It has to have something to do with the sear, no? If I put the original sear back in, it works fine. I understand about the sear and the hammer wearing as a pair. I do not see much wear on the hammer. Thank you again for your help.