earthshine402
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Posts posted by earthshine402
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It would make things so much easier for everyone gaming with these things in production.
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Keep us in the loop. When I converted to a CZ and a Tanfoglio, the OALs were eye opening. Contemplating getting my barrel reamed.
Given the fact that my FPs and JHPs at 1.110 don't actually feed smoothly, I'm probably not going to bother.. gonna get some round nose of some 124-147 variety.. a friend may have some 128 Ibejihead RNs for trade.
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Yes. EXT FPB and one piece sear would NOT prevent the Henning Gen IV FP from moving forward.
I checked my load book and I had 1.112 " listed as too long for the truncated nose. Try 1.10?
I load at 1.095" personally.
LOL.. i initially had them at 1.135, and squished them down to 1.110 after i realized that the bullets were contacting the rifling when doing the plink test.. maybe ill try squishing a few and see if they feed..
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I just "slow fed" some round nose snap caps in all 7 of my mags, 2 rounds in each.. they all fed perfectly.. so looks like i have some 147gr FP to dump... movin' on to round nose!
edit: and movin' back to the 7 lb recoil spring!
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What are the problems with the Gen4 FP and the extended block. Does it seem like the extended block is always required with a 1 piece sear.
in my stock 3 and probably others, the gen4 FP is not blocked by even the extended FPB.. my guess is the extended FPB needs to be MOAR EXTENDED.
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Based on my test and match, it happened when i started a stage by shooting 10 rounds and dropping the empty mag with that last round jam fed
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I have just over 1k on the gun, i might try a new hammer spring.
What is the 45 bump insert? Where you slow feed it and smack the back of the slide to push it in battery?
What i have done so far was slow feed mags- it works until the last round in the mag and then it hangs and the bump wont even help, i have to extract the round.
I have been running 9lb spring for most of it. Tried a 7 at first snd it was clear i needed a heavier one.
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T3 disco alsoRemove your FPB for awhile. Take it out of the equation. What hammer spring are you running?
What is your bullet type and OAL?
EG extreme light hammer spring
My bullets were bayou 147 at 1.110, then i ditched those after a few terrible stages for 147gr zero jhps at 1.110, which were very tried and true in my g34, and case gage much better than my bayou load.
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I had all sorts of probs last weekend, first match with my stock 3. Henning gen 3 pin, 1 pc sear, ext FPB, titan hammer. Lots of what seemed to be light strikes but some had no indent on primer, indicating hang up. The damn thing was having feeding problems as well..
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not to be a jerk, but how bout that "bad non scientific advice"
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Ahh the Tripp Corey mags.. Well.. Best of luck, let us know how that goes.These Tripp mags hold 9. Everything was sold under the pretense "fits the box", so I hope they fit. I'll know for sure in a week at Area 3.
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how many rounds in those mags and does it fit the box?I didn't trim the factory basepads, I just bought the Dawson No-Gap basepads. The factory basepads fit flush with the bottom of the magwell, that's the main reason I went with the Dawson pads. They provide a little extra material to seat the mag with.
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Sorry, i have to disagree with you on achieving a flatter shooting gun. If you use a spring so heavy that it does not allow the slide to travel fully back, the muzzle dip would be huge, you should watch the youtube vid and see the dip with heavier springs.Incorrect regarding longer distance. Unless the recoil spring is insanely heavy(or the load really light), so much so that the gun doesn't cycle properly, then the slide will not make the full cycle. Otherwise, most typical springs allow full travel of the slide.
Please don't give bad, non scientific advice here
Your spring weight is going to dictate the rate at which the recoil energy of the slide gets transferred to the frame, as well as how far the slide travels. The gun will still cycle even if the slide barely goes past the base of the next round or bottoms out on the frame. Tuning this is how you can achieve a flatter shooting gun.
I prefer the light recoil spring with a hard grip for flat shooting.
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Just caught up on many months of this thread... For the life of me I cannot understand the hype of these.. I think you would be much better off getting a CK Arms blaster, many of which are stocked at Shooter's Connection and Speed Shooter's International. For just a little more money, it is a completely gunsmith fit "pre-canned" custom quality build.
I picked up a CK Thunder series limited in .40 directly from CK in 2014, and it is a really nice pistol with a 2 lb trigger.
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question about the no gap magwell and Tripp mags: was it easy to trim the basepads and is there much of the basepad that sticks out once seated- is there enough leverage to ensure positive seating?The parts I changed out are as follows:
Dawson Ice Magwell (No-Gap)
VZ Alien Slim Grips
Slim grip screw bushings
Ed Brown Oversized Mag release
EGW Tungsten FLGW
Fiber front sight
Wolff 12lb recoil spring
Wolff 16lb main spring
Everything else is stock. Setup like this it makes weight by 3/8 of an ounce according to my scale. Its close, hopefully I don't end up with a singlestack Open gun at Area 3.
I ended up leaving the Series 80 components in mine. I polished all the surfaces that make contact with each other and the pins they rotate on. It was surprising how much that smoothed things out. They are a pain to put back together, but I also like the thought of blocking the firing pin.
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Does anyone have any experience using Dawson base pads on these Tripp 10mm mags - I am interested in using the Dawson no gap magwell, and realize it requires special base pads. Wondering if these pads still work on these specific mags and if they fit the USPSA box, or if there are any issues...
Does using an EGW higher mag catch matter at all? (how much room is there with this?)
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I use the EGW U die for .40 and the regular Lee sizing die for 9 and have no issues.
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have you closely examined the internal parts? They are crappy stamped or molded metal with seams, creases, and machining marks.Just seems strange that the same setup in different samples of the same gun would produce such different results.
We all seem to be using the exact same parts. But they work in Waktasz's gun, but not ours.
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Yes. I believe the difference between the stock sear (which didn't do block anything) and the original extended sear (which wouldn't allow the gun to fire at all) was only about .01 (about .497 to .507 IIRC). The tolerances on this particular part are so small it's silly. I took a few thousands off of the extended sear (rubbing on sandpaper only, I didn't go near a file) and now it's good to go, and blocks the pin as it should when the trigger is not pulled.
I saw the extended sear when I ordered a bunch of parts from EGD in France. I didn't know what it was about and just went with the standard one. What dimension is even extended on the extended sear specifically? And how much?
I think Matt meant to say stock FPB, not "sear"
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I don't think that the Gen 3 Henning pin is all that bad of a thing to be "stuck" with if you have the Titan Hammer.
Initially, these aftermarket firing pins were extended/ lightened to improve reliability... and same thing goes for the Titan Hammer, right? I would think that we'll be alright with the TItan hammer and the Gen 3 firing pin, but time will tell..
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lucky then.. i can't even use the gen4 pin in my S3.. even with the extended FPB..Yes, the stock FPB doesn't allow the FP to move forward when slide is forward and hammer back. Yes it's passed the pencil test and I've yet to have a light strike either.
I think I got 1-2 spare gen3 if wanna trade? Haven't had an issue with any of gen4's in any of mine
I'll let you know..
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Yes, the stock FPB doesn't allow the FP to move forward when slide is forward and hammer back. Yes it's passed the pencil test and I've yet to have a light strike either.
lucky then.. i can't even use the gen4 pin in my S3.. even with the extended FPB..
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What are you doubtful about? I am not understanding
I can push the firing pin and won't go forward unless I press the FPB (such as if I have slide locked all the way back) and then will move forward but functions fine
Checking the functionality of the FPB while the slide is back is meaningless for a Tanfo. If you have: the 1 pc sear, the titan hammer, and the stock FPB, does this combination successfully block the firing pin from moving forward with the slide forward, hammer back, not pulling the trigger?
Does the firing pin move freely when you hold on the trigger, and does it pass the "pencil test", no light strikes at all?
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So you're saying you got the titan hammer put it in your S3 that had already been switched over from 2 to 1 piece sear, and left the original FPB in and when you cock the hammer and push the FP with a pen or something the FPB catches it and keeps it from depressing? What FP are you using again?So is everyone having to run an extended FPB with their titan hammer? Maybe I am just lucky but I haven't had to change FPB's with my gun with titan hammer.
Yes. I installed it along with one piece sear at same time (whole trigger job done at once thing) and all I did was polish the bottom/top of FPB (whatever end sear touches) and no issues. Running a Gen4 Henning pin now but had a Gen3 in it for couple times cuz gen4 hadn't made to me yet and no issues. I can push the firing pin and won't go forward unless I press the FPB (such as if I have slide locked all the way back) and then will move forward but functions fine. I had ordered some extended FPBs while back just cuz I'm a spare parts junkie but never have had to install one. Both my III's and II's are stock FPBs
if the slide is forward and the hammer is back, can you push your firing pin forward with a punch? I'm doubtful on this one, particularly with the gen4 firing pin.
When will Tanfoglio do away with the FPB?
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
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Those of us using a S2, S3, Lim Pro, that put a 1 pc sear in and light hammer spring that are chasing that nice trigger pull have to deal with messing around with extended firing pin blocks and then have to tune it. and some combinations don't even "work" - gen4 Henning pin with extended FPB. I would love to be able to use the gen4 pin for reliable primer ignition - with the Titan hammer also, but it does not engage my extended FPB.
I had the ext. FPB with a gen3 Henning, and i was not quite tuned right, so i was getting many light strikes or instances where the pin was getting hung up on the FPB.
It is just sort of a pain in the butt to get to the right place..