tmz
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Posts posted by tmz
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Any love or hate experience with the 357 sig loading ? Give me your thoughts. Thanks
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I think the closest you'll get to something like that is one of the fancy airsoft guns they make some that are true to the weight and truer the trigger pull.
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I never heard of a "tight barrel fit" softening felt recoil. This will be interesting to see what others have to say.
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4 minutes ago, IntenseImage said:
I have MBX now, just figured I could put these stock ones to use tooI just ended up using my SPS mags for practice reloads. They just never seem to be 100% to use in a match.
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1 hour ago, IntenseImage said:
Has anyone upgraded the factory mags with TTi pads? Looking to see what all I need to swap out to get these setup
At one point I tried changing the guts and base pads on some SPS 40 caliber mags in the long run it just was not worth it the quality of the metal of the tubes just isn't there I would try going with an STI or an SV or an MBS I think you'll be much happier and they will be more reliable in the long run.
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For some people there on a budget and 9 mm may be a little bit cheaper for them, for me I choose the 40 caliber also it's nice to be able to tune the load to the gun you're shooting, I think there's a little bit more room in there to do that with the 40 versus the 9 along with the extra points don't hurt.
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I would contact whoever does your gun smith work and see what he suggest.
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Maybe if it's not too much you might try polishing it down with a dermel ?
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26 minutes ago, redfisher said:
how do you turn it down?
That I leave up to my gunsmith sorry I don't have an answer for you on that one.
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I only posted once but it sure posted quite a few times also maybe take a look at this video for the magazine problems
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Maybe also the feed lips on your practice magazines need to be adjusted properly
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Take a look here
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Take a look here
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Take a look here
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13 hours ago, jcc7x7 said:
Seems as though you may be loaded short.
Most 1911/2011 feed better in 40 with ammo between 1.180 and 1.200 provided you chamber/throat is that long.
Which being an SVI gun a bet it is.
Also call Brandon and ask his suggestions on cartridge OAL.
IF its running 99% of the time its usually ammo related, OAL , Crimp Etc
Had the same problem until I did this.
I found 1.175 turned out to be a perfect length for all my 40 caliber loads.
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15 hours ago, redfisher said:
NitroFin fitting. Just picked up a Nitrofin and dropped it in my Cheely limited. There are no fitting instructions and the slide now sticks when closed, I can get it to open but it sticks every time it closes. What's the solution?
You need to take your old slide stop and measure the diameter of the pin and have the new slide stop pin turn down to that diameter.
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I guess if they did warranty them they would have to replace it with a plastic grip because of what they say they no longer make the Aluminum anymore. By now they should've just got on the same boat as many others and produce a steel grip.
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Well that's good to know I actually called them a while back that was the information I received over the phone but that's good if they are covering them.
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9 hours ago, Gooldylocks said:
So, since the necro thread is here and everything... Does anyone know if recent STI aluminum grips are still cracking? I just found a crack in my plastic grip on my open gun, second one this year. I don't really want a metal grip, but if I am going to have to keep replacing grips like this then the price adds up kinda fast, and I can get an aluminum one from Dawson for 250. But if it is just gonna crack also then... then I guess it is just back to buying more plastic.
Also STI no longer makes that Aluminum grip so if you do crack it it's not covered under warranty Dawson just has new old stock of those. CK Arms does make an aluminum and also a steel look them up there very nice.
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Yep a lot plays into this bullet weight, power factor, compensator, slide weighs.
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That was a general picture I took off the Internet, most hammers that I have experience in my guns have the half cocked notch narrowed I would imagine so it would not let that happen. I would also imagine the disconnect does help from the sear drifting too much to the left and right.
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38 minutes ago, CHA-LEE said:
especially if the hammer falls to half cock. It does not take many half cock drops to wreck the first surface cut on the sear lip.
? How is this possible when the hammer is made to catch the center of the sear in half cocked and not the portion of the sear where the hammer hooks are located.
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2 minutes ago, teros135 said:
If it's this complicated to get it out, it's probably going to be lots of fun getting it (and the firing pin) back in.
Not at all it comes out much easier than it sounds.
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Set a small board like a 2 x 4 on your workbench. Set your slide on the 2 x 4 so the dustcover hangs over one and so the slide sits flat. Take your brass punch put it on a 45° angle to cause the firing pin to go in a little bit on the slide stop so you can tap down word on the slide stop causing it to snuggle up against the firing pin. Now you should be able to push the firing pin all way in causing it to stay behind the slight stop. Continued with your brass punch in the firing pin hole on a 45° tapping the slight stop all the way out.
357sig
in General Reloading
Posted
Thanks for the input.