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Norther

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Posts posted by Norther

  1. Took some measurements. New Starline brass pocket depth is .129", and Federal LP match primers are .117-.118. So, with zero crushing, I'm at .011" deep already. Looks like Starline put Large Rifle pockets in this batch of brass for some reason. I'll have to measure other brands later.

    On another note: Happy Easter everybody! Also it's my daughter's 10th birthday, so she's old enough to shoot at the local indoor range.

  2. Thanks Matt. Maybe "lean" was too strong a word, I wouldn't say I'm flexing the loader at all. And the issue remains, with the hand primer I'm at .015-.017 just to feel it bottom with light pressure.

    I'm going to go back and prime on the 650 but try to use less pressure, then shoot a bunch to test.

    My ammo's always worked in my 1911s! :)

  3. Before anyone says anything, I did search on the subject. Rather than revive one of the several ancient threads, I decided to start a new one.

    I just lightened the hammer on my 625JM. Since, I've fired 150 rounds with one light hit. Trigger looks to be breaking at 6 lbs. The light hit appeared to be from a primer seated too deeply. I do have an Apex competition firing pin installed, and I am using Federal primers.

    I got on here and did a search. It seems that .007"-.012" below flush is ideal. I've just been leaning on the handle of my 650 to seat. I measured a bunch of primers and they're mostly around .014" below flush, with a few up to .018. Most people seem to be having more trouble with getting them deep enough, and I seem to have the opposite problem.

    Anyway, I'm setting up to load my Nationals ammo, and got out my new Starline brass and some Federal Match primers, and decided to give the old Lee hand primer a try. With no extra pressure at all, just to feel the primer bottom, the hand tool is seating primers .015 below flush. If I squeeze it'll go .020.

    Is any of this worth worrying about, or is it enough just to be sure the primers are seated solidly without considering depth?

  4. I have no experience with Safari Arms, but I sure don't like the look of that projection thing out the front strap.

    Sounds like it's a gun somebody put together themselves. Quality (and price) would depend on the ability of that person, and how much use and what kind of care it's had since.

    I think I'd pass on it personally, but maybe you would like the front strap thing more than I think I would. An STI Spartan wouldn't cost much more new, and a Trojan is a little over $1000.

    ETA: Just looked at the pictures. It looks like a novice fitted the grip safety, with that big gap. I'd also want to change the sights and thumb safety, but that's just me. I really think STI would be more "bang for your buck".

  5. I have an XDm 9 and had an XDm .40. The sights are fine (normal) on the 9 but the .40 required the rear sight to be far left in order to hit POA. Never liked that, and sold it partly because of it. It was definitely not a dirty gun or bad shooting habit problem, it was the gun.

  6. I was wondering if anyone else has run into this. I did a quick search and didn't find anything.

    We have an increasing number of Open shooters and we're shooting indoors right now. I bought a set of the Howard Leight electronic muffs, turn the volume all the way up and wear them over my plugs. Now I can hear conversation but the shooting is quiet and comfortable. No problems except...

    The ringing in my ears seems to be getting louder. Could it be possible the first millisecond of blast is amplified before it cuts out, and I don't notice while it's happening?

    I don't really want to spend lots of money on better electronics but my ears are worth it. Plugs alone aren't good enough and plugs and conventional muffs make hearing range commands impossible.

    Thoughts?

  7. I didn't like them. Great idea, but they were designed for someone that holds their gun lower in their hand than I do. I thought of extensive building up of epoxy and reshaping them to fit me, but decided it wasn't worth the effort. The screw they came with was way too short too.

    I guess I'm in the minority, I like the factory Miculek grips with the top left removed best of all the grips I've tried. I would like to try some Big Butts that fit though.

  8. I just managed to buy 5 new STI .40 140mm mags. Two of them have the front of the follower coming out the top, such that it would be difficult to get it back in to get any rounds in. The others act like they want to, but stay where they belong (barely). The feed lips seem to be in spec. Anybody seen this? If I replace the follower w/ a Grams will it go away? Usually I'd just return them, but not in today's market.

  9. What a topic! This thing is huge.

    I voted no difference, but I am in favor. Many of my reasons have already been discussed.

    I probably have lots of company when I say that I rarely shoot major matches. Local matches are too small to worry about divisions, I go for the top spot regardless of division (the farthest carrot, someone said). Usually for me it's SS, but I do dust off the ol' 625 a fair amount too, because I do enjoy the added challenge despite it making me place lower down the list. At the local level, 8 shot or not, I doubt there will ever be much of a revolver following. I've never seen more than two, and usually it's none, unless I have mine out that day. People like me want to win overall, and no revolver is as easy as any decent semi-auto.

    My point is, the competitive difference among revolver shooters means far less than competing against everyone else. Hmm, that still doesn't sound very clear. Anyway, I am in favor of the change, I do think 8 shooters would generally have an advantage over 6 shooters, and I don't care. I will continue to shoot revo when i feel like it, and I will not buy a 627. I am signed up to shoot the Nationals.

  10. I load what I have. Most of my nickel cases are either .40 or .38 Special. Both split FAR more often than brass cases. Haven't really noticed it with the few .45 nickel cases I have.

    I've heard rifle shooters claim the harder nickel is harder on the dies, but that shoudn't be an issue with carbide pistol dies.

  11. I shoot a 6" bull barrel .40, it weighs 37 ounces with a tungsten guide rod. I really like it, although I am planning to try a Briley aluminum guide rod once I figure out how to make it go in. It's not a drop-in as I was expecting.

    I shoot better with it than any other gun I've shot.

  12. I have seen a few over-the-berm shots in the last few years, and more that I could hear ricochet over after hitting the ground behind a low target. A second shot at a rearward-falling popper can bounce over also.

    One local club shoots at the local LEO range, located on the grounds of the international airport. Beyond the berm is the road, and across that is a kind of wilderness area that people sometimes use recreationally. Airplanes fly over regularly. They did add a railroad tie extension to the already high berm this summer, but that didn't stop FAA pressure which resulted in a total ban on steel at this range. We're making plans to shoot elsewhere in the spring.

  13. 4.5 feet sounds pretty high. The younger guys could just bend over and run through it. I'm thinking 3.5-4 feet, or perhaps the height of a standard 55 gallon drum. Make sure you build the supports solid; one match I went to had flimsy supports and people were just giving the supports a kick to knock over the slats, then running through upright (See rule 10.2.5).

    ETA: better think of a penalty to give the people who just can't do it, per 10.2.10. We have on shooter with a very bad back who refuses this sort of thing, and a guy in a wheelchair shows up sometimes too.

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