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spideysteve

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Posts posted by spideysteve

  1. Hey Stan ...really 50 posts happens pretty quick. Like Flex said, post your experiences, say for example what happened with your rear sight failure. My wife shoots shadow and has never had a problem with it. The way you mentioned the failure was like it was something everyone knew about. I have no idea what you mean ...

    Things like that will get you involved and will get you some answers. Or maybe ask about something you saw at one of your matches. Or if you reload, or have questionsabout starting reloading, check those forums out too. Post some pics, ask questions, read the training sections and participate there ...The possibilities are nearly endless.

    HTH

    :cheers:

  2. what kink of tutorial is there for the sketchup? It seems very confusing.

    Not a "tutorial" but it may help.

    Ok 3 questions about that video:

    How do you have it so you can toggle between the stage you are building and all the props? I did it wrong I'm sure ... I imported the props into the new stage I'm building and it really slowed everything down ... mistake obviously, so ... some help on that would be great!

    What's that bar to the left side that pops up when he is toggling between the 2?

    Anyone have a link to the props.skp that he uses? I can't find it in the 3d warehouse ... Edit: n/m ... found it!

    Thanks for the video ... helps lots actually

  3. I use a case pro on every piece of 40 brass I load. Definitely makes the loading process easier and no more rounds tossed after they don't fit the case gauge :) IMO if you pick up range brass and want to be able to use every piece of brass that's not damaged, some sort of case preparation machine is required. I've also used the Magma Engineering products, their Case Master Jr is a nice product for those of us that don't load commercially. It's probably better than the affordable roll sizers out there like the Case Pro since the brass is full length sized and not rolled. I've witnessed roll sized brass that had a defect in the roller and caused major damage (splitting) in the cases upon firing. And the case Master Jr will work with a dillon case feeder, just need to figure out a way to automate the brass insertion.

    I'd be in for a machine for 9mm and maybe 40 S&W if it was affordable.

    Agreed about the CaseMaster Junior ... good machine, no issues so far that I've had with it. Hooked up an old 550 case feeder to it which makes it quicker ... automating the feed/press would be great ... Magma makes a fully automated machine at around $6k :surprise: Or if you have really deep pockets, you could go with a Camdex case processor at around $19k ....

    Back to the original question ... most others here have stated about the price point ... I think that's the sticking part with the CasePro for most people. I would guess if you could get it down around $400 for the machine and one caliber, you would make sales.

  4. I would agree with Braxton. Likely you are anticipating the "bang" and so you push the gun low left just as the shot is breaking, in anticipation of the recoil. I struggled with this for quite a while. Dry fire definitely helps, just to get that proper trigger control, but you will need to figure out what is causing your reaction.

    This thread helped me:

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136047&st=0&p=1530295&fromsearch=1entry1530295

    Another thing I found that helped me was putting a small piece of tape on my glasses over my left eye. This helped me to to ensure both my eyes are open while pressing the trigger and keeps the front sight crystal clear. It has also helped me to watch the front sight bob up and down as I'm firing. The first time it happened was one of those "ah ha" moments for me.

    HTH

  5. Saul K talks about swingers in his book, Thinking Practical Shooting and also in his dry fire manual. He talks about the same things as above, waiting for the swinger, or ambushing it as some have called it here.

    Make a practice swinger and play with it ... A guy I shoot with made one out of some 2x4s and 1x4s for us to practice on. Really easy to make and even though it's not fast and comes to a stop after about 4 swings, it gives us something to practice on. I will take some pics of it next week at our practice and post here.

  6. I use N320 all the time and have 2 loads I use ...

    200 gr Campro

    4.6 gr N320

    1.185"

    PF ~174

    180 gr BDX

    5.2 gr N320

    1.185"

    PF ~174

    In Canada (IPSC) we need 170 PF for major

    Both work well for me in my Tanfoglio Limited and shoot soft

  7. Wow lots of good input. Thanks guys.

    I would have to say that cost is somewhat of an issue. The 1050 is significantly more expensive than the 650. I'm really a casual shooter so I wonder if the 1050 is just too much press. I just want my reloading sessions to be smooth and quick.

    I also want to have a case feeder and eventually a bullet collator/feeder. So I think that eliminates any manual indexing presses like the 550.

    How is the priming system on the 1050? I kind of like being able to feel the prime happen, because I can tell right there if something went wrong. Can you tell if something didn't prime right with the 1050 or does it just smash the primer? Also, how are is it to achieve the correct priming depth adjustment on the 1050? How do you know when it's seating just right and not creating any additional pressure on the primer?

    1050 is awesome ... I would say it's not "too much press" and it is smooth and quick ... I loaded 1500 rounds yesterday in about 90 minutes ... taking my time ... had 1 crushed primer which was in a Winchester case ... seems like the Winchester cases are being a pain lately

    As for priming system, it's all done on the down stroke, so you can't really feel it (my experience) since everything happens at the same time ...

    Adjusting priming depth is an Allen key, easy as pie ... start off high, then adjust downwards until you have it exactly where you need it

  8. Not sure what the complaints are about the 1050 priming system. That section of my 1050 has not been an issue on mine.

    My biggest complaint is the 1050 spent primer tube. Really? What the eff? It would take no effort at all for Dillon to make the hole a bit bigger, tap it, have a threaded brass rod that screws into said tapped hole, drops down and then a rubber tube to carry the spent primers away.

    An in-line type of press would be great.

    As for the exporting thing ... I contacted Camdex last year and they had no issue shipping it to Canada for me. Not sure what the difference would be.

  9. Good luck Steve. It's tough but worth it in the end.

    I dipped the Copenhagen for 12 years and that was a hard one to break. For me it wasn't a depression but I was pretty irritable and snappy at my wife. I was pretty much a miserable SOB for a while.

    But when I realized (like you did) why I was being miserable I just snapped out of it. Haven't touched the stuff (or snuff I guess) in over 10 years now.

    Keep it up Steve. Looks like you have lots of people rooting for you.

  10. Well, it's been a bit, but here's an update ...

    That optometrist didn't understand really what needed to be done ... it didn't work. Saw another optometrist at the same office, same thing. Was generally frustrated with the whole thing and figured I would just carry on as-is, but then saw an ad on a billboard at one of the local indoor ranges for an optometrist who specializes in shooters .. sweet!

    Went and saw him yesterday .. after doing a full eye exam, he did some measurements while I was simulating firing. Put some contacts in and then he showed me what the Magic Dot (or Decot Dot) can do ... front sight is crystal clear now, no issues with ghost or double vision while trying to focus on the front sight. Also, my pick-up time is much quicker when bringing the gun up to fire. And since it's an opaque dot covering your non-dominant eye, you still have the peripheral vision needed for transitions.

    HTH someone out ...

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