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kwesi

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Posts posted by kwesi

  1. I had to remove the trigger, as the allen key I was using started twisting. Plus if you try to remove the screw with the trigger in the gun the screw will bind on the trigger spring. This happened to me and the screw bound up so tight that I stripped it. I then had to remove the trigger anyway to drill the screw out. :(

    Update: after my 2nd range visit the pre-travel screw now adjusts fine! This is the best trigger I've ever had...wow! I'm thinking it might be tough switching back and forth with my Glocks even with the 3.5# connectors installed.

  2. The pre-travel screw will not turn at all. I'm concerned that if I apply more pressure I may strip the head. Any tips short of removing the trigger from the gun? I've read that the factory my grind down the ends on some models. Possibly they even added some locktite. So if I remove the trigger to get more leverage any tips to still prevent the head from being damaged? Thanks!

  3. Is there any way you could measure the weight of your slide? Just as is when you take it off your frame (with the Sprinco guiderod, springs, bushing, sights, etc.)

    Then I could weigh my match and we could see what the weight difference is in the top ends.

    - Nealio

    I can take it over to my neighbors home and weigh it. I'll get back to you.

  4. All of my old style 9mm mags are from EAA not after market. The original chrome plated one that came with the gun did not have any spacers and has worked perfect. The extra EAA purchased mags with the spacers all took a little bit of tweaking to get them to run. Put the empty mag in the gun and try to lock the slide back. If it won't lock back on its own then it is probably the follower not coming up high enough and the notch catching the slide lock.

    No problem locking the slide back with the empty mag!

  5. I started off using the factory installed recoil rod and spring. I started with a load that I believe equaled a factory load (did not have time to chrono) with the following recipe:

    7.2 gr Power Pistol

    Winchester LPP

    180 gr Precision Delta FMJ

    1.258 OAL

    Starline nickel brass (not virgin)

    I fired 50 rounds with 2-3 FTE's and the slide NEVER locked back when empty. * I did have 1 light primer strike the finally ignited on the third attempt. *

    For tbe next 50 rounds I increased to 7.4 gr of PP:

    1-2 FTE's

    The slide may have locked open once

    For the final 50 rounds I switched to the Wolf 20# recoil spring and fired three different recipes: 8.0 gr PP, 10.8 gr AA#7 and 8.6 gr Long Shot.

    The side did lock open a few times. Note: I had chron'd these rounds as follows: AA#7 1220, PP 1232 and LS 1262 BUT I realized that these were all fired out of my CA89-10 which has 4" longer barrel. My guess is that I lost around 100 fps so my rounds were not as hot as I was thinking when I installed the 20# spring.

    IIRC I still had 1 FTE with these hotter loads.

    My guess is that these FTE's are not uncommon as the gun wears in but I would love to hear others experience. As for the slide not locking open do you think the Wolf spring is too strong or is it the break in?

    First impressions:

    We were only firing at 21 feet but she was dead on! If you read my earlier posts, prior to purchasing, my two big concerns were how my eyes would handle the sights and if I was going to be able to change the brass ejection to 3 or 4:00. I love the gun, it is tight and feels solid. I did not try the FO sight tonight but I did well with the black front. *** Best of all: the bras came out around 4:00 without any modification to the ejector! Firing in lane #1 gave me the advantage of the wall that is covered with a thick synthetic sound barrier material. I was able to recover 97% of my brass!

    Do you think I need to increase the recipe due to the Wolf spring? I would appreciate hearing others experience as this is my first Witness.

    Thanks!

  6. I had to load up some softer rounds because my Sprinco recoil rod did not ship with the metal bushing and Alan does not want me to use it with the plastic bushing that came in my Limited. Then the 20# Wolf recoil spring that I picked up from Henning binds on the factory recoil rod. So I will be running the factory shipped spring tonight with loads that should be 1000 - 1050 fps. Looking forward to tonight's range visit. Really curious where the brass is going to end up.

  7. With the Witness Limited 10mm & the recommended after market parts arriving next week I was wondering how many rounds I should fire before using the dremel. Of course I will clean it before firing. Thanks for everyone's help & suggestions, this being my first Tanfoglio.

    Probably won't need to smooth anything out if you are replacing the hammer and trigger. The sides of the trigger bow and the barrel lug may need some help. If you shoot it enough, it will be very smooth without dremeling.

    The only parts that I'm adding before firing: Sprinco recoil rod and Wolf 20# spring. After test firing to confirm function I'll probably go with the Wolf 13# hammer spring + Henning x-long firing pin. Adjust pre & after travel screws, polish/buff any other parts that will improve the trigger.

  8. I want to thank everyone that has replied to my questions about the pattern of ejection, recoil/spring upgrades and spare mags! She won't arrive until next week so until then all I can say is it was love at first sight. I'm going to work on the ejector tip, pick up a Sprinco recoil rod and Wolf 18# and 20# springs to handle the 1200 - 1300 fps loads that I run.

    I was also advised by Nealio (thanks for all your support Aaron!)to pick up Hennings Trigger pin and nut, X-Long firing pin for large frames + a Wolf 13# hammer spring and to round out the pre-travel adjustment screw.

    I do not shoot competition but I love the 10mm. So if after the mods she still has that first love appeal then I guess I'll sell the G20. I'm new to this board but not to guns in general. I'm like a sponge so please feel free to share your experience's and school me.

    It took me a month to talk myself into this purchase but in the end I found a great price then learned it was a "Davidson's" gun and I think that is what made me pull the trigger. After reading about the terrible service and having to pay shipping both ways with EAA I decided the lifetime warranty - no bull from Davidson's was significant.

    Thanks again for your patience with this Tanfoglio newb! As I become more familiar with the Limited I hope to be able to contribute to the boards.

  9. Before I purchase my first Tanfoglio Limited I want to understand the recommended upgrades and ways to improve performance:

    1. Sprico recoil rod for hotter loads - I'm currently running 1232 - 1262 fps

    2. Is a 21# Wolf recoil spring right or?

    3. Mags:

    a. Mec-Gear - not sure their capacity - I prefer 15 rounds minimum.

    b. EAA factory - 15 rounds

    c. Any other brands

    d. Is their a particular supplier that you prefer?

    4. I recall reading a thread about rounding out one of the trigger adjustment screws. To change the flat head to more of the shape of a round nose bullet. Any advice is appreciated.

    5. Anything else that is highly recommended?

    Thanks for all the guidance many of you have provided over the past month when I began researching Tanfoglio's!

  10. Kwesi> I suggest you call EAA with questions about their products and availability. Its better to get information from the horses mouth verses getting "hear say" responses from the general public.

    It never occured to me since I've read so many bad comments about their customer service. I was hoping someone knew who had them for sale. None of the sites I'm aware of have any listed in stock. Thanks for the suggestion.

  11. There are other differences that the Limited has verses a Match.....

    (1) Frame - The Limited frame has a long dust cover and checkered front/back straps on the grip. The beaver tail on the Limited frame is also larger.

    (2) Sight - The Limited has an adjustable bomar style rear sight. The Match uses a smaller style adjustable rear sight.

    (3) Safety Levers - The Limited has larger extended safety levers.

    (4) Barrel - The Limited has a Bull Barrel. The Match has a straight barrel with a bushing.

    (5) Mag Release - The Limited has an extended Mag Release button.

    (6) Hammer Pin - The Limited uses a solid hammer pin that is retained by another pin. The Match uses a roll pin that can not be replaced with a solid pin.

    The upgrades on the Limited verses the Match are well worth the extra $$$ they charge if you are going to compete with the gun. If you are only going to be plinking with the gun then the Match will work just as well as the Limited. Both guns are very accurate and function great right out of the box if you use the new style Mec-Gar magazines.

    I do not yet shoot competition but usually attracted to the bells and whistles. I've located some new Limited's for sale but I've not found any Match's. Does EAA limit the 10's? I've not found anyone offering a Match so I can't even compare the prices.

    Has EAA changed the slides recently on either or both of these?

  12. I would appreciate hearing about the pro's & con's to each of these pisto's. This is what I understand:

    1. Cost factor much higher for the Ltd

    2. Match does not have the flared magwell

    3. Match does not have the slide tapped

    Am I correct that:

    1. Both are SA?

    2. Both take double stack mags

    3. The trigger's are the same AND offer the identical adjustments?

    4. Each barrel has different rifling - not sure if one is considered more accurate.

    5. Both require a 21# guide rod/spring +/- ( Sprinco or Wolf ) to stop the slide from getting beat up with hot loads.

    That's about all I know from researching it here and on the web. The jury is still out as to whether I'll upgrade from my G20 but these are the two best options I've found to consider. I appreciate any and all advice!

  13. I don't understand the big deal is about this. If you want to change the brass ejection distance shorten the length of the ejector prong. If you go to far and start to get failure to eject jams then get a new sear cage and start over. Is it really that hard to make this simple change on your own? Why would someone take the time to resell a sear cage with a shorter ejector prong when you can do it yourself in less than 2 minutes with nothing more needed than a metal file?

    I must not be communicating this too well. I don't feel comfortable spending $1,000+ on a gun that I might not be able to adjust the direction the brass is heading, not just the distance. I called and spoke to Henning and he even told me that it is not so easy to accomplish, if at all. It simply comes down to the fact that I want to pick up most of my brass to reload. Sorry if this does not explain my reason for posting. Thanks for all your assistance!

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