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9x45

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Posts posted by 9x45

  1. There is no rule, in any of the disciplines, against hooking your weak hand index finger in front of the trigger guard, however it is a really bad technique for beginners because you don't have nearly as much control over the weapon compared to the standard wrap grip. Now if it comes inside the trigger guard, yea, that's a valid call. And don't assume the guy holding the clock is really a certified RO, or knows the rules that well.

  2. Actually just stock sights on my G19 lol. I'll actually be taking a Travis Haley handgun course soon so I'm hoping to learn loads from it. Guess I'll hold off on any Zev/Salient/etc. upgrades until I finish that class. Maybe the G34 MOS will be available by then lol.

    I was actually recommended this forum by a friend, and I didn't realize it was geared towards IDPA/USPSA shooting. Maybe in the future I'll have enough time to try out for those, but I'm not too concerned with keeping my gun under certain competition restrictions for that reason. My G19 is my carry handgun, but it'd be nice to have some modifications if they'll improve the gun. The G34 idea is completely for fun on the range and maybe 3Gun if I try that later this year.

    The 4 fundamentals still apply, whether it's carry or competition. For me OEM Glock sights suck, and I go with Dawson/Heines for competiton and Trijicon night sights for carry. I got my first carry Glock in 1992, a G19. only addition was the Qwik Grip, sold by Lone Wolf now, all else stock.

  3. It's better to download by one than to drop a reload. Not only do you loose time, but a newbie can loose track of the target array, walk by a target and get 2 Mikes and a failure. Even though my G17 Limited mags hold 23, it's just safer to load 22. And keep in mind most target arrays are usually only 8 rounds, so you will have plenty of time to reload while moving to the next array.

  4. Before spending $2,500 on a Glock upgrade, you need to learn how to shoot. Take lessons from a USPSA Grand Master, become proficient with the fundamentals: stance, grip sight picture and trigger, then shoot at least 2 dozen matches. By that time you will have saved the $2,500 because you will know that magic gizmos are no substitute for the fundamentals.

  5. Fitted aftermarket barrels in a Glock, or any platform, will produce tighter groups, escpecially with tuned loads. However, if the shooter has not mastered the fundamentals of stance, grip, sight picture and trigger, it won't really matter if they are running a $5,000 Open STI or a HiPoint. Glocks really don't care which lower you put them on, a tighly fitted upper is what counts.

    Real Glock, or Blinged Glock, it still won't matter if you don't know how to shoot.... This old G19, even after the fire, still shoots a tight group.

    image33267.jpg

  6. G17 2.5 " off sand bags @25 yds, great yes!

    Come out of the holster. Consistently 10" low left.

    Since this forum is about competition, and not shooting from a bench, you need to start with the fundamentals: stance, grip, sight picture and trigger control. I suggest you get going with shooting lessons from a Grand Master USPSA shooter and buy Brian Enos's book.

  7. It's just a gun/mag combination. I have 4 G17's, a G34 and a G17L and about 40 original capacity and 15 or so plus 6 magazines. About a dozen just jump right out, others take a little flick, and some have to be ripped out. And the same mag acts differently in the different Glocks. For USPSA it doesn't much matter on a moving reload, but IDPA standing reloads could be a problem.

    I don't think you can get a 33 round spring in a 10 round mag, I tried it with the plus 6 and it doesn't work.

  8. It's not exactly a guess with standard dies, which are 1/2"-20 on the rod. So 20 threads per inch is .050" per full turn, or just at .006" per 1/8 of a turn. All the die stations have to full for a correct adjustment. Of course the easiest way is to have additional tool heads....

  9. So how does the stock frt sight come out? G17

    Depends on the generation. In the early days OEM night sights were staked, later ones had a machine screw. Most OEM plastic fronts wedged in with a little pin, which you push out from the barrel side, and newer plastic ones have a machine screw.

  10. Your gun willl always look for the next target, so make sure your eyes can keep up. It's just faster if your eyes are already looking in that direction. The only time you look down at the gun is if it is on a table to start.

  11. I think you are better off to separate CCW from competition. Black on black is fine for either, and night sights are fine for CCW but are not an advantage for competition. And fiber optics are good for competition, but really do nothing for CCW, especially at night. Holsters do not damage the front sight, smacking into ports/barricades while shooting can break the little rod, but it can also short stroke the gun. There are many good fiber optics out there, Taran Tactical has the smallest and brighest rod, and is fairly bullet proof. Me? I have G17s for carry, and G17's for competition. Sooner, or later, you will want a back up gun. Black on black (Heines/Dawsons) with milled out wide cut rears (.180") for competition, and Trijicon night sights for carry.

  12. Have we heard anything about problems relating to bottle-neck cartridges in IPSC? Shoulder separations? Chambering issues from not bumping the shoulder back?

    I have been running my G31 on classifier stages for the last few years. I load only once fired and un-trimmed brass and get about a 5% loss as a result of squashing the case or messing up the crimp (using a Lee Factory Crimp, floating). Seems like the .357 is easier to squash than 9/40/45. And it's odd because this round only has the very slightest of crimp. Nobody yet makes a chamber check gage for this round, the gages availalble are for checking the 'as sized' case for OAL (which should then be trimmed). I chamber check each round. Pictured are ones that fit the case check but not the barrel chamber (OEM Glock).

    image36858.jpg

  13. Good catch, there were probably still rounds in the cylinder. Going to have to make it safe in the bay.

    Jim

    Absolutely. With a revolver, you have to push the bullet back into the cylinder to allow the crane to swing open. This has to be done on the line per 5.7.5 The nice thing is since the cylinder could not turn, you know the round in the chamber is spent. On an auto once you are sure the firearm is clear you can have the competitor go to the safety area, but not with a revolver; you or another RO is going to have to push it back.

    The competitor is not entitled to a reshoot per 5.7.4.

    Jay

    In my opinion there is no safe way for a competitor to clear a squib under the clock. It is just too easy to sweep yourself trying to get the squib rod into place assuming of course you carry one in your back pocket. My brass ones end up making holes and falling out. That is why I no longer carry it on my person, but keep in my range bag or RO bag.

    J

    Disagree with unloading at the line because under an RO's specific instruction you can proceed to the safety area per 10.5.13

    5.7.5 Under no circumstances is a competitor permitted to leave a course of fire in the possession of a loaded handgun (see Rule 10.5.13).

    10.5.13 Having a loaded firearm other than when specifically ordered to by the Range Officer.

    2.4.2 Dummy ammunition (including practice or training rounds, snap caps
    and empty cases), loaded magazines, loaded speed loading devices and
    live rounds must not be handled in a Safety Area under any
    circumstances (see Rule 10.5.12).
    10.5.12 Handling live or dummy ammunition (including practice or training
    rounds, snap caps and empty cases), loaded magazines or loaded speed
    loading devices in a Safety Area, or failing to comply with Rule 2.4.1.

    Still don't agree. The way I see it is that rule 10.5.13 Having a loaded firearm other than when specifically ordered to by the Range Officer over rides all other rules. Otherwise why even have this rule? It is specifically for the kind of issue. That is my opinion, but to be sure, I have emailed Troy McManus with this question.

  14. Good catch, there were probably still rounds in the cylinder. Going to have to make it safe in the bay.

    Jim

    Absolutely. With a revolver, you have to push the bullet back into the cylinder to allow the crane to swing open. This has to be done on the line per 5.7.5 The nice thing is since the cylinder could not turn, you know the round in the chamber is spent. On an auto once you are sure the firearm is clear you can have the competitor go to the safety area, but not with a revolver; you or another RO is going to have to push it back.

    The competitor is not entitled to a reshoot per 5.7.4.

    Jay

    In my opinion there is no safe way for a competitor to clear a squib under the clock. It is just too easy to sweep yourself trying to get the squib rod into place assuming of course you carry one in your back pocket. My brass ones end up making holes and falling out. That is why I no longer carry it on my person, but keep in my range bag or RO bag.

    J

    Disagree with unloading at the line because under an RO's specific instruction you can proceed to the safety area per 10.5.13

    5.7.5 Under no circumstances is a competitor permitted to leave a course of fire in the possession of a loaded handgun (see Rule 10.5.13).

    10.5.13 Having a loaded firearm other than when specifically ordered to by the Range Officer.

  15. No one puts their hand in front of a gun, loaded or not, including the RO. Once it was visually determined to be a squib, the RO should have instructed the shooter to holster the weapon and return to the designated safety area (with the RO) and clear the squib. You never try to fix a gun on the line.

  16. i lol'd ; of course thought it was true advices on '''how''' to shoot a TS efficiently , which i'd like to know the trick for ; i've exactly spent a full mag at it recently with one plate left still on the swing . i need to know haha!

    nice star!!

    Two ways to do it,

    top to bottom, left/right doesn't matter after the top one, but move quickly on 2nd/3rd left/right plates, after that it is trapped on the bottom.

    spin it and ambush it. Hit a lower plate first to get it going, then as each plate goes by, pop em. Looks cooler, not as fast.

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