RobertLx
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Posts posted by RobertLx
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The "one piece hard sear" you have in your list, where are you getting it from?
If it's EGW, I don't think it will work for production. At least looking at the picture. It looks like it doesn't have the arm for the FPB.
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Oh, it is possible. For some reason I was thinking Stock. Not lim pro.
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If you're using the factory hammer, expect a longer SA trigger pull. The OE hammer has longer hammer hooks compared to the delta or Titan hammers. In turn the sear needs to drag along those longer hooks. You may even get some creep from it.
My Titan hammer breaks very crisp from the sear.
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Are Tanfos known for the slide stop to break where it goes through the barrel? I've heard it was common on CZ's after I saw it happen once at a match.
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I have the 9# in my S2. I have only fired 100 rounds through it, but it feels good and cycled just fine. I'm running 147gr @ 132 PF
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My S2 from the factory had 12# DA and 4.5# SA.
I installed the light springs, Titan hammer and polished all the contact points. Now it's 6.5/2.5.
It has a nice short reset.
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The same fix works on the front. If you just file it on one side only you can correct by adjusting the rear sight. Front sight is a lot cheaper to replace!
I'd file the front.
I assumed he was talking about the Dawson front sight with fiber optic. If he is, and he does file it, the fiber will be off center.
I filed the rear of the Dawson adjustable sight on my Glock. It worked out nicely.
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Just my personal opinion but I believe that I am running the Dawsons on my stock 2, and while I love that they have a nice long blade to allow more light in, they are too wide.
With the rear sight they are almost too precise for my liking and it seems like I spend too much time searching for the front sight.
I think the Henning and the Extremes are both .090 wide, my dawson is .105 wide I believe.
I may trade it out, or I may just file down the sides and try it out.
WJM
Don't file the front sight. It will be tough to get it exactly the same on each side of the sight without a milling machine. Instead, file one side of the rear sight. Since it's adjustable you can re sight it after filling. Just open it enough for your preference.
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Here are some pics of the front arm of the sear that contacts the FPB.
The first pic is with the hammer cocked. In this position, the sear should be holding the FPB in the up (blocked) position.
The second pic is with the hammer down and trigger squeezed. In this position the sear arm is in the down position along with the FPB, allowing the FP to move freely.
I believe the amount that it moves isn't enough to block the FP.
Has anyone needed to shave the bottom of the sear that contacts the hammer?
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My concern isn't with the safety. That's the easy part. My concern is that the arm on the front of the sear doesn't raise enough to work the FPB. Even if I use the extended FPB, it won't move enough to work reliably. There is so little movement in fact, that I can't be sure if you just pushed hard enough on the FP, it might slip right by the FPB.
I agree with not modifying the safety. Fit 2 sears if you want a back up. Common practice in 1911s.
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I have the extended FPB on the way. I won't make any adjustments until then, but the sear barley moves down when I squeeze the trigger. I'm not sure the extended FPB will move enough to actually function correctly.
Also, I was under the impression to fit the sear to the gun, not the gun to the sear.
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I installed a one piece sear, Titan hammer, and interrupter. The way it is right now, the sear barley raises and probably doesn't even touch the firing pin block. Also the safety doesn't work. I would need to remove a lot of material for the safety to work, and the FPB still wouldn't function.
So my question is this, can I file down the underside of the sear that drags along the hammer to get the sear to sit higher in the sear housing? If I take material from under the sear, it should allow the back of the sear to sit lower, and the front of the sear (FPB arm and safety cut out) to sit higher.
Has anyone done this?
I've read that the sear is only surface hardened, but I'm not filling the hammer hook part, just under it.
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I wonder if there is any difference in using the stock interrupter vs. the one piece sear interrupter, as far as trigger weight.
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how i described is how they did it on my cz75b. i'd like to know what is "the way" then to test? whether it is a cz or tangfo
Well I'm not familiar with the 75b, but I'm assuming it's the same as a tanfo. In that, I mean it drops the FPB to allow the FP to move forward. This is how the tanfo works. The sear holds the FPB in the up position until the trigger is pulled and drops the block.
So if you lock the slide back, you should be able to move the FP. You should not be able to move the pin if you just cock the hammer.
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Did you also put in the interrupter that should be used with the one piece sear?
The trigger shouldn't change much or even anything on the pull weight. I have the stock trigger and I'm getting 6#10oz DA and 2#8oz SA.
This is with the Titan hammer, one piece sear, interrupter, and some light springs.
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The tanfo is backwards to your glock or M&P. Up is blocking the pin.what i've also seen done is rack the slide back and lock it. take punch and press on end of firing pin. if the other end goes out past breech face, fail. (cause i've failed this test at a different match)
but i can not attest to the accuracy or repeatability of this method. it's just what happened in my case. i'd really like to know as well.
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Makes me wonder if you took too much material off the edge, or if it is in fact a weak load.
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How did this work out for you?
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Last night my friend and I shot my new limited gun I just got. I shot 6 rounds into the berm with no aiming and got crappy splits. I did not record them, but it was along the lines of .20, 28, 30, 24 .32. His were all low 20's and down to .15 splits.
Mine are all over the place and slow. Not sure how to get that finger working any faster.
My friend says its in my head and you hardly ever need to shoot more than 2 rounds anyways.Between starting routine dry fire, and maybe bill drills when the weather gets a little warmer, Im not sure what else to do.
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Good tips guys. I think you may be right jshuberg, I think I'm muscling through the return stroke and I get tight and tense in my strong arm. Not that either of my arms are strong lol. I like the pen clicker idea.
I don't dry fire as often as I should. It's so boring. I'm trying to get into Bens books about it.
Do you guys think if I dry fire bill drill with a Beretta (heavy DA pull) it will help? Or will it be counterproductive because I shoot a glock in production?
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I can accurately do .20 splits. It's just the physical pulling of the trigger when I'm shooting 3 or more rounds. It's slow for me. I don't know what my splits are, but my buddy said "that's as fast as you can shoot?" I can't go faster even if I throw accuracy out the window. Just shooting into the berm is slow. Glock 3# trigger
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Title says it all. I have a hard time getting fast splits when I need to do more then 2 shots. Classifier Can You Count for example, I don't know what my splits actually are, but they are slow. Is there a drill or workout routine to help with trigger finger speed? I do well with field courses, but often screw up classifiers because of this thought that I'm gonna do it slow. Then I try and go as fast as I can and don't watch the sight.
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I had a great 4 stage match Sunday. I had 2 stage wins and one 2nd place stage. I had 12th place on the classifier stage. Totally blew it. Ended up in 3rd because of it. It was the El Prez and I think my HF was 2.8 or so. It was like I was concentrating so much on going fast, that i didnt use my sights and I just blasted away. I always do crappy with classifiers, but pretty good with field courses.
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Im in southern NH, near Nashua. Lived here my whole life so Im used to the frozen boogers...
I've been reloading for a few years now so Im trying to save some money there. But the ammo is defiantly the most expensive part of shooting. And now that I want to do limited, I need to get a .40 setup for my 650. This will be my first .40.
Production mods?
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
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Your title to this thread is production mods. Are you shooting this in uspsa production, or do you mean mods you can do from the factory?
If you're shooting production, disabling the FPB is illegal.