RobertLx
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Posts posted by RobertLx
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double tapped.
This can be deleted
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If you're using the factory hammer, expect a longer SA trigger pull. The OE hammer has longer hammer hooks compared to the delta or Titan hammers. In turn the sear needs to drag along those longer hooks. You may even get some creep from it.
My Titan hammer breaks very crisp from the sear.
did you have to fit an extended firing pin block with Titan hammer? I do have a little creep in SA
Yes. I have the henning extended FP and needed to put the extended FPB in the slide for the block to work. I'm still having a problem though. Every once in a while when I check it, the FP will move past the FPB when a little extra pressure is applied to it. Not every time, just some times. But when I first put the FPB in the slide, the FP would get stuck beyond the FPB when dry fired. The back plate would fall off the slide when you rack the gun. So I sanded down the FPB from .510 to .508 and it seems to work most of the time. I need it to work 100% of the time though. My main problem is the one piece sear just doesn't move enough for positive engagement for the FPB. I'm considering going back to the 2 piece sear and trying it that way.
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My buddy use the 165 Xtreme out of a glock 34. They tumble. Not sure if it's too heavy, but I don't think anything over 147 is necessary. It's 9mm minor.
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Good question. Is there any way to check functionality besides pencil test and manual operation with the slide off?
It seems to lock it out when manually depressed (slide off) and then will shoot a pencil out of the barrel during normal trigger squeeze in SA/DA.
Cock the hammer with the slide installed and try to depress the firing pin. Shouldn't move past the back plate face.
I lightly polished where the TB contacts the frame and inside where the hammer spring and TB spring go.
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It looks good, praetorian97.
How does your firing pin block work?
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This............freaking............sucks.....
Haha. Shoulda got the dremel bits. Took me less than 10 minutes.
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What happened? You ruin yours?
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6# DA
2#2oz SA
My SA was 2# before the disco and trs.
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When on the timer, this mod will do nothing for you. It didn't decrease my SA pull weight either. In fact, when I was done, it increased the pull weight by 2oz. I also installed the CGW trs at the same time, so I can't be sure which part is actually to blame for the increase.
I did the mod for the hell of it. I thought it would be cool to try. Since I'm bringing it to my first match with it Sunday, everyone there will be fondling it. They will be judging it by the trigger feel and pull weight.
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I have a set similar to this.
Adam recommended theses.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9910
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=7144
I used them to get the hole started, but they only opened the hole to .098. Too tight for the roll pin. There was a bit in the set I have that measured .102.
Again, I'm not sure if the set I have is the same as above. The bits look similar, but my kit is old that I got from my dad.
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I didn't need to touch the backside of the vertical hook. All I did was open up the pin hole, then file down the bottom side of the wing. This was to allow disengagement from the trigger bar. I took a little material off at a time and installed everything to check for fit.
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Sorry, I don't have a picture. I got my info from the other thread about the T3 disco.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194198
It should be pretty clear once you get all the parts out and start looking at it.
Also, here's a big tip to save you time. You'll need to remove the disco from the hammer a number of times to fit it properly. But, instead of installing and removing the roll pin from the hammer every time, use a slave pin. I imagine a Q-tip shaft cut to the width of the hammer would work. A lot easier than beating that roll pin in and out.
I have some wooden shaft swabs and used that.
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Then you'll need to file the top of the wing. I think for clearance for the FPB part of the sear.
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It's an easy install. Once you get the hole reamed to the correct size, the only other fitting is the underside of the wing if you're using a one piece sear.
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Are you talking these touch points or where the hook goes in?
Thats it. The area on the right engages the disco, the one on the left engages the sear.
That's a great idea, Adam. I'll have to try it. However my trigger is nice and smooth now.
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Is anyone polishing the back of the TB where it enrages the disco? I don't have anything small enough to fit in there.
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The sear spring will work too.
I haven't compared my LAR rp sear spring to the CGW, but I'm betting they are the same.
The LAR rp spring takes 8oz on SA pull.
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How many rounds through it so far? What weight recoil spring? It's the last round of every magazine? Different mags? Factory ammo?
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I needed to thin the underside of the wing for disengagement from the TB.
I used the same dremel bits Adam did to enlarge the hole. But in addition to his bits, I uses a diamond bit I already owned that measured .103. It's like it was made for this job.
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Received my T3 disco in todays mail. Took about an hour to fit. I realized if you use a one piece sear, you dont need to remove any material from the top of the wing.
Here's my youtube video of before and after.
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LRA sent me the screws that were suppose to be with the grips. So I guess the grips should be supplied.
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No sanding prior. I used a soldering iron from radio shack with round tip.
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Thanks. It was a cheap way to add very aggresive checkering.
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That's what I was gonna do!
I did a set for the Trojan.
Just did a trigger job on my first Limited Pro - questions
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
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Do you have the one piece sear, or 2 piece?