thegeneric
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Posts posted by thegeneric
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2 hours ago, George16 said:
You could have emailed or called LOK and have him custom make you one in the thickness you wanted. That’s what I did on mine. The thickness I wanted was between the palm swell and thin and they were perfect for my hands.
Possibly, but I couldn't really have known what size to ask for without a reference point.
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I love that holster! Any interest in making one for me (if you still have a Shadow 2 for a mold). I really want one with that mounts to the Safariland systems (3 point screws).
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I really didn't like the stock grips that came with my CZ Shadow II, decided to order LOK grips because it seemed that was the most popular choice.
The stock grips were perfect for my strong hand (trigger placement in double action), but my support hand felt like it wasn't touching as much as the frame/grip as I wanted. I was still nervous about choosing the palm swell option because I wear medium sized gloves but have very meaty paws (I swing a hammer for a living).
Got the palm swells in and confirmed my fear: my right index finger did not reach comfortably in double action. I was thinking I had to order the non palm swells and use the thin grip panel on the right side and palm swell on the left. Felt bummed about the fact that I'd end up spending $140ish on two sets of grips just to find the right fit. Woke up this morning and realized the G10 material really lends itself to shaping. Went slow with a file and checked my finger placement along the way multiple times. Now they're perfect and probably a better fit than just the non-palmswells.
I apologize if this is an obvious and common practice, but hopefully this helps if you aren't sure about the palmswell option. Attached some photos for reference.
https://imgur.com/a/NRSRaXn -
43 minutes ago, Nathanb said:
This is in the same vein as a Roland special. The problem comes getting them to run. Short barrels and 9mm make it hard to work the comp. you’ll spend time playing with recoil springs and striker spring combos to get it to run right.
I am accepting of that part of the "build". This exercise in "extremes" is just for fun! I've shot as fast as .08/.09 splits with a Glock 19c (maybe it was my Jericho 941?) and I am looking for more efficient ways to waste ammo. I carry a bone stock Gen 1 Glock 17 (with fresh OEM weight springs) and shoot a 34 MOS with not much more than polished internals.
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25 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said:
That certainly is a silly build.
According to this, the Ti slide is under 7oz, I've found my best shooting 9 major slides weigh around 10oz
Can you describe what characteristics make the 10oz the best shooting for you? Why do they shoot worse when you lose more weight than that? Genuine questions, not trying to be adversarial.
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2 hours ago, TRPOperator said:
DC Precision is doing some really cool stuff on Glocks..I know you want to build your own, but might give you some ideas. To help with weights and lighter slides, mounts etc
I saw that build, looks great. Thanks for the reminder of the resource.
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7 hours ago, Open1215 said:
I think this sounds fun. Really really fun! It will be a super light gun, with that being said... 9 major out of a polymer gun is a bit harsh. The steel guns shoot softer due to the weight and the distribution of the weight in proportion to the cycling mass. Having a super heavy magwell, heavy guide rod, thumb rest and super light slide may help to offset some of this but I would imagine it would still have some kick to it. I can't wait to hear more about it and see how it looks/runs! 9 major may work great, it may be better off as a steel gun. Either way if you can keep the muzzle down the traditions will be super quick! I've wanted to do a g19 open build for some time now. I was really looking at the 19x before it came out and I saw it was a 2 pin not 3 pin frame.
Sent from my SM-J727T1 using Tapatalk
Thanks! Do you think this setup lends itself to 9mm major? I would need more pressure to work a higher spring rate and account for lost pressure via portig/comp?
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2 hours ago, theWacoKid said:
There are some interesting thoughts flying around here. I'll only address the theory of side ports and lateral forces stabilizing the gun and say that an even balance of forces acting on a body in some axis nets zero force in that axis and therefore is no different than applying no forces at all.
That makes sense to me. It also has me thinking about common ar15 brake designs. Do the side ports simply provide an escape path for the additional gasses that should not be directed upwards (because if a brake only had ports on top the barrel would dip)?
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4 minutes ago, Solvability said:
I question the premise of a shorter stroke on the 19vs 17 vs 34 - I think the stroke is the same - no?
Good point, this might just be from stock compact Glocks being higher sprung, theremight be no difference in actual travel, I don't currently own a compact Glock to confirm.
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So they're making Glock slides out of titanium now....
This is just a discussion on my attempt to build the fastest cycling, flattest shooting Glock possible with zero expectations for longevity/consistency in reliability. Can you double check my logic and point out any issues I am neglecting?
Glock 19: Because the shorter/smaller slide results in a shorter overall stroke
Titanium Slide: Because dramatic decrease in weight increases velocity, requires heavier recoil spring to increase velocity/force of return stroke
Ported Barrel: Lonewolf/glock oem/MagnaPort style "C" ports to aid a bit in muzzle rise reduction, decreases rearward pressure/velocity
Compensator: Carver 2-3-4 port? Continuation of keeping muzzle rise to a minimum, side ports stabilizes the gun, decreases rearward pressure/velocity
Ported Barrel AND Compensator Combo: downwards forces are more spread out across the length of the barrel instead on just as the muzzle
Tungsten Guide Rod/Competition Magwell/Frame Weight: Increase weight of frame as much as possible to absorb impact of slide/other recoil forces
Frame "Shock Buff": absorbs some impact from slide/frame due to higher velocities
Increased Power Magazine Springs: brings the next round up faster for the faster velocities of the slide
Optics (not super relevant): SJC/Carver Frame mounted Micro Red Dot, so the optic doesn't move with the slide/fastest target acquisition
Basically maximum porting and maximum slide weight reduction. Where do I hit a point of diminishing returns (muzzle dipping/catastrophic failure)? Does the decreased rearward pressure from the porting/compensation require a recoil spring rate that is too low to return the lightened slide forward with enough force? What characteristics should the 9mm load have to potentially run this setup? What possible spring weights would make this run? Does the physics work?
There might not be a purpose for this build except for the abundance(affordability) of aftermarket Glock parts, excess of time/"fun" money, and my irrational need to be "different".
Thank you in advance for any help/insights ya'll might have and again, thanks for humoring me!
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Thanks for the anecdote. I'll get out there and practice,
A local guy that I shoot with, shot 11 rounds on 2 targets (6 on one and 5 on the other) with a no shoot between them, and all the splits for the shots including the transition were .10 on the timer. This was with a para 16-40 with stock slide (the targets were close, about 4 yards). I think the way to get there with your glock would be to get the best trigger you can, a timer, and practice.
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I think I would swap between recoil springs in order to not destroy the gun. Thanks for the answer.
Alright guys nevermind, I guess I'll just make some phone calls to some gunsmiths.
Short answer I would think is... maybe. Shorter guns generally need heavier springs in order to not beat themselves to death, from what I understand. So logically cutting up a slide that is lighter to begin with would yes cycle faster than something heavier, but I wonder if you could get away with a super light spring (like an 11) without it coming apart?
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Alright guys nevermind, I guess I'll just make some phone calls to some gunsmiths.
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Beyond those questioning why I want to do so, does anyone have any insight on my original question? Does a slide lightened glock 26 cycle faster than a slide lightened glock 19/17/34?
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I am pretty sure he can run a semi faster than that.
.10 splits? Yea, look out Jerry Miculek! He holds the world record since 1989, at a .125 split. OP, better study this video.... And then spend the $$$ for a shot timer so you can actually measure your splits.
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this is me out running a benelli at .11 split time.
I'm sure a glock can cycle faster than I can shoot it, but if I can gain some mechanical advantage while I make modifications to my gun, I would prefer to do so.
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this is me out running a benelli at .11 split time.
I'm sure a glock can cycle faster than I can shoot it, but I can gain some mechanical advantage while I make modifications to my gun, I would prefer to do so.
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Probably. On the timer I can shoot .12-.13 on good days on steel at 7-10yards.
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Haha no, I'm not that great of a shooter. Just a side project for fun. I want to be able to shoot .10 splits. Just...for fun?
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If I wanted a crazy fast cycling Glock, would lightening the slide and porting the barrel of a Glock 26 result an a faster cycling gun than say a Glock 19/17/34 with the same work?
Other than tuning the recoil spring, what other issues might I run into?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Answering the question you have, I would choose the M&P. I believe the aftermarket is a bit larger. The gun itself fits and balances better in my hand than an XDM.
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So far as I know there are:
Glock OEM
Pearce
Taran Tactical
Dawson
Taylor Freelance
Anyone have more to add to the list? Any reason why I should avoid any of these?
Thanks
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There has been a big discount on all the Para's across all retail outlets with $100 MIR's. I wonder if that has anything to do with it.
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Just browsed through the 3,693 previously listed auctions for "STI Duty One" on gunbroker and still couldn't find another one like it for sale.
Shadow 2: Can't clear the sear when decocking
in CZ
Posted · Edited by thegeneric
Holy crap, I have this exact problem and was going to post asking for a solution. I thought I was going nuts when I couldn't reliably recreate it. Thanks for that.
I also have a weird manual decock situation. I'm not well versed enough with this platform to figure out if what you're describing is the same problem I have. I found that I have to be careful not to apply any rearward pressure to the hammer while pulling the trigger, I can't recall this being an issue on decocking any other gun I've encountered. I was then taught to pinch both sides of the hammer (index and thumb) and that was helpful, no issues since.