punxsutawn

I have to agree that changing the powder type will go a long way in improving the cycle. I had a similar issue, however I now use AA2230 or Win 748 and don't have problems any more. The 2230 powder performs exceptionally well in my rifle so I it really was a win-win for me.

Thanks for the thought on the carbide dies. They are carbide and I can see where that could be a problem.

Thanks Brian. I kinda thought about that as well. I'm going to add a chamfer to the die so it will work on that press. FWIW, it did work just fine on the other 550 press I have and hence the confusion. When I noticed that the washers were missing, I thought that may have contributed to the issue. Which brings me to another concern. Do I really have to take the whole thing apart just to add the washers? It appears that there is a shoulder on the bolt through the crank so it won't just push through. I have to think the washers never were installed to begin with??

I also do the 230 grain wieght on top of the primer follower and the problem went away. I use the same rod on my 550's now as I recently have had a couple of issues with that press as well. I do believe you have hit on something with the primer manufacturers as well. I don't have that issue with some of my older primer inventory, however, with new purchases, there does seem to be a difference. I haven't really taken the time to see if there is a dimensional difference, but I wouldn't doubt it at all. I do have to say that since I changed the tip on the tube, I have run about 5000 rounds through it and haven't had any problem at this point. I'm sure there is "some" wear after 3K but I cannot believe it is enough to cause failure??!

actually, no, they are some RCBS I had laying around.

Thanks for the info. And I would agree that there really isn't a need for dates since you have a lifetime warranty. I was just curious is all! Thank you!!

OK, so I really wish I knew of this forum before I bought the Pact Professional XP Chronograph a couple of years ago! After doing a search, I found many have issues with Pact. That being said, I still have issues with this unit. It has been back twice and still has issues! Every time I call them, they give me more "stand on your head and try this"....which never works either. (sorry for the rant!). I keep having the error of "no start signal detected". I have followed all the pact protocol...keep wires separated, head tilted, proper distance of chrono. from bench, etc and still get the error message. Has anyone else had this problem and more importantly, know of a resolution. The only thing I have not tried is their last suggestion...Since it has IR...make up a lead hooked up to a 6V dry cell and use the IR only. I really don't think I should have to go through all that, I just want a machine to give me the detail I need! Thanks

I was just curious... Is there a way to tell how old and/or what year my presses were manufactured. I have a couple of RCBS Jr.'s I still use and they have the year stamped on the top. I don't readily see anything on the Dillon presses I have.

Wow ! I bet that would still work! I've never researched Dillon, but I wonder what their first press was?

Thank you for the advise. I'll order them as they are missing on mine. There are just regular washers on the outside at this point.

sorry, I should have been clearer. I moved the tool head and shell plate over. I got looking at the "problem" press a little more. It looks like on that one, there are two washers on the crank that are not in their proper position per the schematic. They are located on the outside of the link arms and not on the inside. I bought these used and am just now trying to set them up. I'll change them and see if that might be the difference?? Thanks again!

Well, I did as all suggested here and it didn't fix it yet. I first set it up like Kevin said and it was the same as before. I also rechecked the paper clip, shell plate and anything else I could think of. I moved the set up to my other 550 and everything works very well. A little issue with the primer system, but other than that, it works great. I did compare the two presses and noticed that the handle on the one I'm having trouble with has more side to side (horizontal) movement. I don't know why yet as I don't see too much different between the two. But that is the only discernable difference I see so far. Any suggestions??? Thanks!!

Where did you get your rails? I have this same rifle but havn't had much time to do anything with it. It is pertty fun though.

thanks Kevin, I'll give that a try this morning!

I have a couple of 550's I'm finally getting to set up. I have the tool head set up for a 44 Rem. Mag and it almost works really well. The only problem I cannot really figure out is that when I raise the case to decap, it does not line up exactally with the die. The lip catches on one edge of the die....not always the same spot. It is almost like the case leans or wobbles and will catch on the edge of the die. If I use a little persuasion, it goes right in, however this action really slows me down a lot! The table is perfectly level as well as the press....at least as level as I can tell with an 18" level. Thanks in advance for the help!

+1 on the AA2230. It has worked very well with both the lighter bullets as well as the 69 grain Nosler BTHP's I currently use. I had been using W748 which did well, but the AA2230 really tightened up the group for me.

+1 on the 650. I Started out on the RCBS Jr., then to the Dillon 550 (now have 2) and eventually to the 1050. Love that machine, but it is a little over kill for what I do. I probably would have saved a lot of money by just buying the 650 to start!

I appreciate the detailed explanation. I will check mine right after work!

another good source is www.reloadersnest.com Good people over there as well. I have used W748 along with a 69 grain Sierra BTHP very successfully in my Armalite M15A4. I haven't had any issues. I believe I use 23.5 grains of W748 but double check the book. Another great powder I use is AA2230. I believe it was specifically designed for the .223.

The 650 is a great choice, however, I don't shoot near as many rounds as you do, and I still would have the 1050 if I had to make a choice. Tool heads are a more expensive, but I believe they are money well spent. It's merely a one time expense as you would never have to buy one again. Just my 2 cents.

Thank you Merlin. I kinda thought that is what it was for. I didn't know if there was any potential issue with contact so I didn't adjust it to touch the stop. I appreciate your help!

what ever you do, make sure you have plenty of room on the bench! I have rebuilt mine 3 times now as I keep getting more gear that I "need" ! With concrete walls, I'm sure you won't have a problem securing your bench solidly.

I've not used Titegroup but have used Unique quite a bit. It is a little dirty, but for what I shoot, I've not had any issue. I also use Unique in my 1911 an again, never had an issue.

I have an RL 1050 and on the back of the lower assembly, there is a bolt that I really have no idea what it is for. It is located about mid position of the conecting rod assembly? I cannot find what adjustment if any is supposed to be made. Right now, it is backed off just a little. It doesn't contact anything. Thanks!

I have an RL1050 I bought used and after a little cleaning, adjusting, etc., I cannot imagine how I ever lived without it. It did have a bit of learning curve for me, however, reading this forum has helped significantly! I sure wished I bought one years ago!