[Why 38 short colt instead of 38spl]

INTERESTING QUESTION....

I think..

First: Faster to eject (most important)

Second: Faster to insert

If anyone here reload 38 short, use a standars short colt brass or made short brass from 38 or 357?

What dies use in sequence? I hear is necessary crimp with a 9 mm dies at last

[627 extractor replaced]

At the end I understand is one of the most complicated parts to be treated ..

[627 extractor replaced]

Here a pic of the extractor star ratchets..

(worn ratchets)

[627 extractor replaced]

It's possibible on a S&W revolver, after about 25'000-30'000 rounds, the extractor star need to be replaced for

worn tooth ?

(and a lot of air gunning at home)

[Safariland comp III "foots"]

Thanks, weel now it's time to remove my Comp III feets !

[Safariland comp III "foots"]

I see sometimes the pics of bubberizing the Comp III, but actually I only want to know that removing all the foots on my Comp give not a problem in some particular condition. I want to be very shure before make the job !

Because in Italy it cost so much! 25€ for one!

I start to cut guys ??!!

[Safariland comp III "foots"]

Hi

I don't remember if I make this answer before..

On one of my Safariland, recently broken one of the 3 little foot and I try to remove on this one also the other 2.

Well, my sensation it works better, I notice when the cartridges flip in my 686, the speedloader go down more free.

Anyone have a suggestion? It's only a sensation?

Thanks a lot

[yoke for s&w k frame]

If the yoke is too longer you need short it, very carefully 0'001" step by step

If the yoke is a little short, you can use some shims from Ron power 0'002 or 0,004 or give the joke to someone is good to make the job of stretching the crane.

Last, use alignment tool to center perfectly the joke.

If your endshake (movement front-back) is 0,001 is perfect, in this condition if you fire most round the hot and the dirty

don't stop the rotation.

If your crane is little bit longer you have difficult to closed it, if your crane had much endshake is possibile missfire

If you find a yoke that had no require fitting, you are very very luckly !

[making a trigger stop]

I try a simple way..I hope it's functional

A little piece of rubber rod, cut at 2,3 mm. and super strong glue

[drilling for triggerstop]

You can put the trigger in a vise with the trigger sticking up, which will allow the vise to function as a heat sink to protect the bearing areas where hardness might actually matter, then heat the trigger with a torch until it's cherry red, let it cool slowly, then it will drill just fine.

Better yet, you can install a new internal trigger stop by making an oversized trigger stop pin from a piece of drill rod, then fitting it inside the rebound spring/slide.

Then again, I think trigger stops are BS for double-action work anyway. As I mentioned in the other thread, the last thing you want when rolling a DA trigger is for the trigger to be "stopped" while the bullet is potentially still in the barrel. What you really want is not a trigger stop, but a nice smooth follow-through to your DA pull.

Hello Carmoney !

You say -oversized- pin beacuse the original one is too slim and can go up and down inside the rebound spring ?

Thanks

[Need help picking new sights for a 627]

The LPA rear is 0.390 high and 0.860" wide

On my 686 SSR to work fine with 0.300 SDM front sight (with 158 grs bullet) I erase the rear about 0,060"

If you want there is also the LPA front sight..fine the construction, but I notice a problem..

The hole of the interchangable sight on new S&W was exactlay 0.125 wide and LPA do it 0.120

Probably they do that to have no problem in installation, but the sight can move lightly from left or right.

The SDM is pefectly cutted 0.125 and go inside without possibility of movement (I can put inside it only after wet with a drop of oil)

[Need help picking new sights for a 627]

Try LPA rear sight with SDM fiber optic 0.300

Great combination

[Firing pin, reduced spring]

Hi Mike!

Luckly I found a spring with the same size in a old box, but I cut it one ring beacase I think is slightly long.

In the pics you can see on the left the original, after the reduced that I have on my 686-5 and on the right the new one.

This last spring it's more soft.

Now I try at home with brass and primers only, waiting for range test.

There's some probability it's going good ? I listen any advice

Thanks

[Firing pin, reduced spring]

About the firing pin return spring..

Well, it's possible to find a spring that work good with less resistance than the original (and not buy the Apex Kit)?

I hear a friend of mine, use in her 625 a firing pin reduced spring made from a pencil spring.

Do you have a opinion about this job ?

I want to try.

Thanks

[Questions of bent mainspring]

Weel..I think I understand with this modify the trigger give to the hammer an extended run before fall down ?

Thanks for the pics Mike

[Questions of bent mainspring]

Thanks

Do you have a pics of the job at point six ?

[Questions of bent mainspring]

Thansk for your comment Bubber

[Questions of bent mainspring]

I read the post "wich strain screw" and I have some questions relatively the job of bent the mainspring.

My 686-5 three years ago, Gary Cuttita think he bent the mainspring and works really well today.

Well..I mad some pics of this one and compared with an original one not bent.

I believe that the mainspring bent is less hard to pull the trigger and then it lightens

*****But this job influence the power of the hammer strike?*****

On this 686-5 I have a very good trigger weight.

Well..on my 686 SSR that I use for Idpa and Icore competition I have a Wilson mainspring, and I noticed on this one there's a factory point bent. It was made like that to do the same work?

Thanks

[S&W 686 light strikes / reduced spring]

What's the difference from the Apex XP firing pin and the Apex Competition firing pin ?

Thanks

[S&W 686 light strikes / reduced spring]

Anyway control if your revolver has some endshake and remove it.

Trigger rebound spring 11 or 12 Lb.

Install an extended fring pin..and for me is also important the reduced power of the small firing pin return spring..the original one it's hard and absorb a consistent power of the hammer strike.

I use a original type mainspring (not wolff reduced power) with little bent for tune-up or the Wilson replacement mainspring.

And use reloaded ammo with Federal primers only, if you want to have the lighter trigger weight.

Hello from Italy

[Which Strain Screw?]

Anyway I use only some Loctite blue (medium) on the strain screw and that's ok.

[Which Strain Screw?]

I think it's a job like that

[Which Strain Screw?]

I see this job on the illustration card that I receive at home when I order a set of endshake shims from Midway..

from Power Custom I think..

[Which Strain Screw?]

For my experience, I think this 3 different strainscrew that i can buy on Midway Italia is in order:

The shortest (but also good on my 686 with Wilson mainspring set to light Federal primers)

The regular

The longest (like the one I have on my 686-2 square butt)

I hope....

[Which Strain Screw?]

the mainspring on your 625 is the standard type or the reduced power with the depression in center ?

The particular spring I've been tinkering with is either the stock spring from S&W or a Wolff type-1 full power spring. Both look identical; both have the rib in the center; I'm not sure which is which.

I also ordered that screw from Midway Italia and they sent me the short type, same as your description, but since I use a spring without rib I have no problem.

If the spring has a central rib of course begins to put the screw in tension after.

If you do not find it, try to put a small thickness that can not easily run away like a washer.

Or back to the original mainspring without rib, try the Wilson, i use it succesfully in my 686 SSR.