Patrick1981
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Posts posted by Patrick1981
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yes..but it 'would cost so much
better for the time he straightens up, go to a shop where they have an axial correction tool
What do you think ?
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Mandrino it's OK, thanks Carmoney
Toolguy, you have a photo of the tool to see how it works ?
complication that I do not understand English well
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I just got back from work and I see so much pleasure with your answers !
well, feeler gauges've got already, the custom power bearings I ordered and should arrive within a few days.
Carmoney great idea..
If I understand it you say to use what we in Italy call "mandrino" ? see photo
and..if I order the crane alignment tools, how I correct the crane?
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Would like to order the tool to loosen extractor rod.
The other two, as they benefit ? because I've seen that cost enough to use them then maybe once time . .
thanks
- extractor rod tool
- yoke, crane reamer
- alignment tool ( also good to make squeeze with crane stretcher, to correct the endshake )
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In my experience definitely an extended firing pin helps lighten the trigger as much and even helps eliminate misfires as the pin moves forward by 0.8 mm. compared to 'the original
good buy
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I ordered power shims 0,002 inch e 0,004
Groped does not hurt
Hopefully good
- I saw that there are also for the yoke, are they useful ?
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I read the comment because I'm very concerned 's argument ..
According to you, it might be that in my new 686 SSR is a factory little endshake voluntary because the revolver is designed to fire many consecutive shots ?
And also to avoid the heat and dirt work are able to block it ? i think it's possible ..
Thanks
Hi from italy
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ha ha !
luckily I understood the joke! -
Well, it makes me feel better..
In six years I have never removed it and I immediately thought something was wrong.
Also the fact that the first has almost twenty years older and a lot more shots fired has nothing to mean ?
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Hello from Italy, I have two revolvers a 686-5 and a new 686 SSR. I removed the cilynder in all its parts to clean inside the 686-5 and I noticed this difference in height of the extractor.
I never noticed it first.
686-5 extractor in the plan is not perfectly aligned with the cylinder surface, why this difference? I did something wrong? Yet it seems that the two extractor does not have the same height....
Can anyone tell me why?
Can cause problems?
Thanks a lot !
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Safariland Comp III speedloader and TKS speedloader holder.
38 special brass and you can be quickly in reloading ( about 2 mm shorter than the 357 )
Replace the original trigger rebound spring with a reduced power one ( 11 or 12 Lb )
you can found it on Midway in aftermarket parts ( Wolff springs )
Hello from Italy
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A short time ago when I did the postal match Icore here in Italy, I fired the second day and I saw many 357 brass on the ground cut to 38 short colt.
I knew they were the ones used by those who came first and second in the classic division.
Surely, however, are good shooters, but it would be nice if it were banned so as not to benefit those who cut the brass but only the skill of the shooter.
What do you think?
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Assemble the lightened rebound spring and you will see that it is much better.
The original one is 17-18 lb, well, you can increases the rate of fire and accuracy,
more stable working revolver.
Lb. 11, 12, 13 is good, depending on whether you prefer a rebound trigger : to go very fast, but harder, or very soft but you have to accompany with your finger. If you get used to shooting with this technique you'll have good results and it is natural after few time.
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you should use bullet diameter as near as possible to that of the throats.
If the throat is narrower than the barrel is a problem because the bullet does not press well against scratches and becomes unstable bullet.
I use 0.358 for lead, galvanically-coated 120-micron copper
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I know that a gap is acceptable from 0.006 to 0.011 or 0.013, an ideal middle ground.
0.013 however, even if there is not necessarily lose precision,
but a bit of pressure and speed of the bullet.
If it is less than 0.003 may stop the cylinder rotation.
Personally I have on my SSR a gap of 0.009 and accuracy is very good even if I use 38 special cartridge.
158 grs bullet ( velocity 820 fps ) = 130 P.F.
From 27 yards you can put with a bit of calm and in single action
all the shots in the ICORE zero target, remembering that it is a 4-inch barrel.
Maybe you could do even better using the 357 cartridge, because it decreases the freebore.
I personally leveled by removing from 0.002 to 0.003 inch thick with a 1200 paper
thin ( mounted on a straight piece of metal like a file )
and a little rubbing compound because there was a slight asymmetry of the surface of the forcing cone.
A good job and revolver shoots very well.
You can read my topic (Gap and forcing cone)
Hello from Italy
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Taken new two months ago.
I immediately bought from Midway a 11 lbs trigger rebound spring.
It's the most important change needed to be done now to have a lighter step.
Just take it open it and put a few drops of engine oil, because it is dry.
One of three screws of the folder is satin, not to be confused with the replacement that is under the grip.
If you use CCI primers loosening the mainspring of 3 / 4 of a turn you have a double action 7.7 Lb and single 3 lbs. Excellent accuracy.
Too bad that the rear sight leaf is not with white inserts.
The wooden grips are more beautiful but rubber is more comfortable.
The flare of the cartridge chambers are there but could be more aggressive.
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Here in Italy I make a 125-130 PF with 5 grains of REX 32 (Rexplo Hungary)
4" inch barrel, 158 grs bullet
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The S & W 14-3 with this guy I've seen too many problems combined.
Externally : rear sight crooked, screw stripped of the viewfinder, slightly barrel curling up, this very serious..in fact it shoots up.
Internally : the point of release of the single action tampered with or worn out, pushing with your finger on the hammer fall down
excessive cylinder shake, damaged firing pin, hand worn bud causing a wrong time. The hammer in double action falls into the exact moment that the ratchet clicks of the niche, a little risky ...
I advised him to leave alone and buy something new.
Good save only the frame, cylinder and grips.
Than to use it safely recommend to change the hammer because of the nock point and worn out, his hand for the right time. Is better a magiorate hand, maybe even to fill the wear of the star rotation?
Excuse me for my bad english
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Icore postal match is made.
I enjoyed it even if I could do better.
I made an unforgivable error of procedure that I added 10 seconds !
Shoot one more in a target and less on the another. Obviously the shots were limited.
The next will be better
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How long is your S&W 19 barrel ?
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Great, thanks a lot
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Hello !
After changing the trigger return rebound spring on my 686 i was wondering if I do it on an old S & W mod 14-3 (about 1977-1979) will be more difficult.
Inside are made equal?
difficulties?
Thanks
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Probably take off as the use of all double action.
But it is a secondary weapon.
I still have not understood a thing because I do not understand the terms.
To get it right, looks the rounded finish to handle side or the barrel side ?
Thanks to all
luckily I understood the joke!
excessive cylinder shake, damaged firing pin, hand worn bud causing a wrong time. 
Endshake--what is acceptable?
in Revolver Forum
Posted
I installed the 0.002 power bushings and I solved the problem, now is fine.
I also mounted an extended firing pin
strange because I thought that would serve the other hand, with 0.004 and those not shut down the cylinder, so better