Patrick1981
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Posts posted by Patrick1981
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Blade-Tech SRB, best choice for IDPA, I love it
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I'm feel fine with the Wilson mainspring (no-rib)
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Do you have a link to this product?
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At the end the best way to straighten (not sostitution) a bent ejector rod is a fixture system?
Two times I use make this job in a lathe with dial indicator, but at home I don't know if there is some good idea.
Thanks
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Ok, is not the only way, but after you do all the possible trigger jobs, finally set the strainscrew it's another chance to go more down in DA weight. If you use revo in competition, not for defense.
I spent a lot of money to buy federal primers..if I don't set strainscrew, there's non reason to buy it and I shoot CCI with 7 Lb DA.
Anyway now, is 100% reliable with 5,5 Lb.
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Filled with hot glue and it seems to go well..
glueing or screwing something up that stretches the trigger I noticed it gives me problems, because it locks the tip of the ball is only just coming into contact with the cylinder.. perhaps better that way
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Use 686, better choice series 5 or 6, in this condition you can find easy an extended firing pin (new style) and install
a good rear competitive sight and a front sight..
In the series 1-2-3-4 you don't replace the sights in easy and cheap way.
The open latch new style is much more reliable for speed reload, I notice there is some series 4 with the old open latch style and some with the new. (first round butt gripp, but again with grooves on the backstrap).
probabily when S&W made the series 4 definitely finish the stock of old open latch.
At the end, if i remember the extractore star new style (asimmetric) is from series 4 to actually.
Series 1-2-3 old style extractor star with the 2 hole of alignment is a difficult replace part to find.
For me the best choice is find a series 5 in good condition.
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Yes, check if you have endshake and remove it with a bearings or give your revo to some good gunsmith to doing the job of
stretching the crane.
Loctite blue is good to stop strainscrew.
Heat, my opinion influences only..if you set the strainscrew at limits to fire a Federal primer (for example)
in a hot summer day..it's possible when the temperature go down, make a missfire because the primer it's slightly harder on surface.
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Ok Now I try to fill
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L frame + 38 special = most better control
If your desire it's shooting 357 full loads*, it's another way of play.
* have no sense reload a 357 brass with 38 power, only slower on reloads.
On tipycal shooting distances (Idpa, Icore) not affect the accuracy.
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Yes, I actually exaggerated
.. it's a piece of plastic to keep the shelves. The trigger that gets total 0.320 but I understand that is too long.
Filling hot glue is right?
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I try today insert a piece of plastic of the right diameter, but I notice is too long (about 0,320")
It contact the center pin on the extractor when the head of the cartridge is again out of the cylinder.
What is the good high of this piece add on the Safariland III comp trigger?
Thanks
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OK, today's work
Made it with a lathe
Now i'm hunting for a good piece of plastic to closed the trigger hole.
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for the trigger pin, this is a good choice ?
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Thanks Bubber
Today I disassembly one of my Safariland comp III and tomorrow i go to work it on CNC..
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In the page of Robert Perdue on 4wheelgun.com i read this about the pic
"The trigger is tapped and packed with epoxy. Tapping the trigger helps retain the epoxy."
I think this extra modified is for fast release the cartridge, but is necessary?
I see on time my frind with some Bubberizzed Saf III, with a screw with round head insert in the trigger hole..
I think this metal part can worn the central closing pin in center of extractor.
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My Safariland has 4 years of life and a lot of reloads and fall in the grounds everytime, but still run well.
The central piece of plastic that keep inside the brass feet, how many life have ?
If it's worn is possible invert upside to upside?
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mmh...is true, I don't think before about difference of crimp made by a 9 mm. dies, this is taper..but I use roll
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Resize and powder die 38/357 and 9 mm. for crimp is good for 38 Long Colt?
Here in Italy you know we have the 9X21
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With plastic is better go slow to prevents molding?
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Same dies combination for 38 Long Colt or is possible do it with standard 38/357 dies?
Thanks Jax
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Weel..I made a pic (like everytime i write on the forum
)I have some shorted 357 brassed, cut to 38 Long Colt use by one Italian revolver shooter.
On left standard 357, after a 38 special and on the right shorted to 1,000 ", I misured the brass now with caliper
Is not long like a short Colt but he shoot it good and make fast reload.
He do it probabily to reduce the freebore of a short Colt? Maybe it's the best compromise?
Good night! here it's midnight
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I'm very intresting to make one for exprerience..well..
I dont' understand in detail how CNC machine work on a circle surface with a thin drill bit
I read is possibly made it with sand paper or saw but I want do a clean and perfect job..and I think the CNC is more precise.
.. it's a piece of plastic to keep the shelves. 
)
“Bubberized” our speed loaders for the L frame
in Revolver Forum
Posted
testing my Safariland bubberized, feels good!
sorry for the vocal "beep" timer battery empty