AHI
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Posts posted by AHI
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This is for 3gun. Not USPSA.
And I Actually Say Make Ready.
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By any chance is the head stamp the same? (the ones that have light strikes)
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It is done a lot. My "long" range ammo(any target past 100yards). Is a hand load using a 77 Sierra match HP. Zeroed at 200meters.
Then use a Hornady Hand load 55FMJ zero to 100yards. ( yes I am mixing yards and meters). With my ammo the 55s are dead on at
50 yards. Less than 2 inches high at 25 yards and in. Again at 100 y same as the 77s. I could use the 55s to 300y if the ranges would lube
there flashers a little. Accercy is not the issue.
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So far this year I have DQed 4 people. All 4 were loading Large rifle primers in pistol brass. One was shooting a 10mm. Other 3 were shooting 45acp.
All 4 slam fired. All 4 DQs were on load and make ready. All 4 hit something within 10 feet. Do what you wont this is a bad idea.
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Depending on what rear sight you have now. You may end up with less weight on the slide. Now if the slide speed is sluggish. I would drop recoil spring weight a couple pounds. This may be necessary to minimize brass hitting the RMR any way.
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They look really wittled up to me.
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This shows some also
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watch video what you seek is at 2:00
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Redding die set for a progressive press in the caliber of your choice.Would be my first choice.
Pick a expander they all are pretty much the same.The only reason I don't like Lee is you are going to break
decapping pins.They are $3/$4 ea.(yes I know they will warranty them). Other than that Lee has a very good set of dies.
RCBS makes good dies also. Have never had a set of Lyman. Hornady is the only brand I have had issues with.But they
have went through a redesign . That should have fixed my problems. Only issue with Dillon dies in pistol is bullet seating adjustment.
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Maybe try a complete clean and lube.
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IT is real good at warping the shellplate. Voiding the life time warranty. Other than that it does a poor job at swaggering the primer pockets.
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The inner belt DOES NOT have the ratchet on it.
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New brass has the same issue.
Try this remove all the brass. Empty the power measure. Now push the powder bar as if it was dropping powder.you will have to pull the handle down some to do this. Now go all the way down as if you are loading ammo. Then back up as to prime.
Do you still have a problem.? If not your brass is sticking. If you do then you have something bent , assembled wrong or not adjusted correctly.
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I am going to say that is not your issue. Your cases are sticking to the expander(powder funnel). You probably wet clean your brass.
Lubing will help.
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Whow
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1 hour ago, BoyGlock said:
How do you wear a belt thru belt loops w/ mag pouches and holster on it?
Old rule and current IDPA. You take everything off the belt as stated. As you put it on going through the belt loops . You put your mag holders, holster,etc on it.
The two part competition belt . The inner bet satisfies the going through the loop part. Outer belt holds all your crap . Two part belts are not allowed in IDPA.
6 minutes ago, BoyGlock said:I dont know what is Standard belt.
The one that holds your pants up.
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Not listed on their web sight. But you may contact Jager. They make them for gen 3.
https://www.jagerproducts.com/index.php?main_page=contact_us&zenid=na8k9kr7pvopvaj3r8bbdqqqp3
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Can you post a video of your issue? I am having problems understanding what you are doing.
I will start by saying that you should be lubing your case's. With Hornady one shot. It definitely
Makes a difference. All Dillon sizing dies are on the tight side. (Thank small base type.)
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First the 350 legend is 9mm not .357 as advertised. Compare data to .357MAX. The legend is basically a rimless 357 max
as far as your Titegroup load in theory it may work. Probably as a single shot. You need gas to operate the action. Give it a try
let us know.
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12 hours ago, Franky said:
Hi Aircooled6racer I’m having the same issue on my Brownells slide I can tell there’s a burr I see my striker scratched up & doesn’t move freely How did u ream out the burr that far back in the striker channel
the one for main spring housing.
Light strikes Part 10, subsection G, appendix ii
in General Reloading
Posted · Edited by AHI
Do you wet clean your brass?
If so how do you dry the brass? Do you remove the spent primers before you clean?
Do you lube your cases before you load?
If so with what? How long do you let them set before loading? How do you lube?
The brass you have recovered.
Did they have crimped primers originally?
Have you removed your firing pin and examined it for damage? Chipped tip for example.
Debris in firing pin channel?
I had to modify my 550 priming system . to seat below flush. With all Head stamps of brass.