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Grumpy's Toy

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Everything posted by Grumpy's Toy

  1. Does anyone have a chart that shows lengths of handgun bullets for different shaped heads and weights by cal., so i can adjust my overall length so i wont over or under power bullet. You would think the manuals would tell you sizes so you can use different shaped bullets as they only give you a few choices.My bullet supply may be wadcutters and they recommend round nose. Any feed back would be helpfull, thanks
  2. Thanks for the help on the 1918 Colt.I'm thinking, the gun had some minor dings on it from normal wear. My new question would be, if dings happened after reblueing would they be shinny metal, or still blue? And if they went thru the expense of having it redone would they not have fixed them first?
  3. If the reblue wasn't totally botched (like lettering no longer visible, etc), I don't think $800 is unreasonable for a clean gun of that vintage. It won't have real collector value, but you won't be afraid to shoot it either, and it might slightly go up in value as less and less of these are available. Forgot to ask: is it marked as a 1911, or as a commercial Government Model? Thanks, It's marked as Government model, also its a shiney blue almost like my Python. Marks are visible along with Colt logo. Shiny blue would almost indicate Colt's Royal Blue, which I think is a proprietary formula they use for bluing certain guns. Did Colt do the re-bluing? But, even if it was done by Colt, the collector value is long gone.....It's better to have most of the original bluing wore off, than to re-finish one of those. From one grump to another, i agree on the bluing. Dont know who did the work, but it looks ok(kinda brite) Grump, is it worth $800.00
  4. If the reblue wasn't totally botched (like lettering no longer visible, etc), I don't think $800 is unreasonable for a clean gun of that vintage. It won't have real collector value, but you won't be afraid to shoot it either, and it might slightly go up in value as less and less of these are available. Forgot to ask: is it marked as a 1911, or as a commercial Government Model? Thanks, It's marked as Government model, also its a shiney blue almost like my Python. Marks are visible along with Colt logo.
  5. I found an original(1911) 1918 colt at a gun store, serial# checks out, gun seams in great condition. Problem is some idiot had it reblued, I would like to buy it, but... being new to the 1911 model, i,m at a loss. Please put your $.02 in, as i dont want to be over paying. thanks, "Grumpys Toy" btw i bought that 1911 TTT, great shooter. I still want some nostalga. 1. What would make them reblue it? (other than stupidity) 2. If all parts check out, is it worth the $800.00 asking price? 3. Would it ever go up in value, or just be a shooter forever? 4. Anyone know hows selling a nice one?
  6. What opinions are out there on the sig sauer TTT revelution?
  7. Which is the best allaround powder to buy in quanity for reloading rn fmj bullets that wont break the bank. I'm reloading currently for 45 acp, 45 long colt, 38 special and 357 mag. What is the best powder for these rounds. I am now using titegroup for all. Thanks, Grumpys toy. Also where is the cheapest place to buy?
  8. Hi, i'm new to this site and reloading. I have a bunch of reloading manuals, they all have a little of something but not alot about everything. I need some help with cartridge overall length. I'm thinking that if you seat a bullet to deep, you can be in deep dodo. Can anyone explain to me about bullet configuration? A formula for lets say 9mm., they give you the formula, but use a rn bullet. What if i have a different bullet which may be longer. How do you coralate for overall length so my velocity does not increase. Please explain.
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