noylj
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Posts posted by noylj
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Re: Aligning the tool head
I screw the toolhead bolt down until it just contacts the washer.
Then I lower the ram and let the toolhead align with the shellplate and tighten the bolt while the ram is down.
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The only problems I had with my L-N-L AP were:
The last primer not dropping into the slider and jamming things up
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A bit of dirt or powder falling into the primer seating stem and locking the punch in the UP position.
Using a Dillon primer rod solved 1, particularly as I now know when I am down to just a few primers.
You can clean out the primer punch with canned air or a solvent blast. Wish they would develop a primer punch wher dirt coming the top could fall out at the bottom.
Other than that, I never had any problems priming.
I have had a lot more problems priming with my 1050s.
Note: 1050s are no where near as cheap or easy for caliber conversions, but they aren't all that hard. However, you can't get much quicker than twisting out 4-5 dies with a half turn and replacing with -5 dies and pulling and shell plate and replacing it. On the 1050 you have the cartridge plunger tube, the case feeder "block", the tool head, and the brass retaining pins. Off the top of my head, I think that is about it. For changing primer size, you need to replace the primer tube, the slider, the punch and the bushing, and the swaging rod (and set-up the retainer/expander die and swage rod). None is hard, you just have to be systematic while taking down and reassembling. The problem is when you have a piece left over and you have to disassemble to re-install it.
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I've owned a Hornady, now own Dillon 1050s. I have loaded on a 550B and 650.
I am not even sure if I have ever seen the RCBS except in pictures.
Go to the RCBS and download the manuals and watch any videos.
I see that their case-activated powder measure system is either licensed from Hornady or a direct copy.
Go to YouTube and look for videos for "RCBS Pro 2000." Guys like showing off their presses.
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I have read a lot of articles pointing out that bullets 200gn and heavier are not appropriate for .40S&W due to the reduced powder space and the increased danger of any bullet set-back. Experienced loaders should know what to look for. Beginners should start off with standard bullets with referenced starting loads.
I think that beginners should start off with the .45 Auto before going to 9x19 or .40S&W.
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I'm sorry, but why are you trying to get the last few primers to feed?
Seemed to me that the instructions were pretty clear that the primer alarm will go off when there are only 3-4 primers in the tube and you are encouraged to re-fill the primer tube.
The cheap plastic tip must be fully seated and it must not be torqued when the "silver nut" at the top is lightly tightened.
I had a problem when the plastic tip didn't seat properly and my machine continued to feed primers perfectly, except for the 3 primers that jumped out onto the bench with every cycled.
I had one that wouldn't feed a primer and I found that the guy who had it had tightened the "silver nut" too tight and the plastic tip was crushed.
For myself, if I spill powder, I empty the shellplate, pull the toolhead, pull the shellplate, and remove the primer tube so I can be sure to clean EVERYTHING. That powder just gets all over.
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.451" for jacketed.
Anywhere from 0.452-0.454" depending on your barrel's groove diameter.
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The problem is that many people are not expanding their cases after resizing. They bell/flare the case mouth, but they are not expanding the case ID.
If you are seating a 0.452" bullet, then forward section of the case where the bullet will be seated needs to be expanded to 0.450-0.451". From checking a few rounds, the case ends up with an ID of about 0.450 something and the bullet is swaged down to 0.451 something.
Measure you expanding stem OD and your case ID before and after expanding. For lead bullets, you might need a larger expanding stem.
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Bullet Weight Powder Powder Weight Velocity Start/Max OAL
L-DEWC 148 231/HP38 3.1 Favorite HBWC
L-DEWC 148 AA2 3.2 748 Favorite
L-DEWC 148 AA2 3.5 850 Max 1.252
L-DEWC 148 AA5 4.5 803 Start
L-DEWC 148 AA5 5.0 912 Max
L-DEWC 148 Bullseye 2.7 Target Favorite 1.180
L-DEWC 148 Bullseye 2.8 Favorite
L-DEWC 148 N100 2.4 759 Start
L-DEWC 148 N100 2.5 776 Start 1.252
L-DEWC 148 N100 2.7 863 Max
L-DEWC 148 N310 2.5 766 Start
L-DEWC 148 N310 3.5 930 Max
L-DEWC 148 Solo1000 2.4 730 Start
L-DEWC 148 Solo1000 2.7 830 Max
L-DEWC 148 WST 2.5 649 Start
L-DEWC 148 WST 2.7 700 Max
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Measure the variation of bullet length.
Unless you are loading at max or near and you are using a short COL, you might have a problem if some are seated 0.01" deepper.
I doubt that your gun can even noticed a +/- 0.005" variation.
Follow the standard rule: start at the starting load or 10% below the recommended load and look at your targets. If they shoot well, there isn't a problem.
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Caliber: the diameter of the bullet or the diameter of the case mouth as referenced historically. Example: .38 caliber references the diameter of the case since the original loading was with a heeled bullet.
Cartridge: The designation of the ammunition. 9x19=9mm Luger=9mm Parabellum are all cartridge designations for the same cartridge.
Round: an assembly of a case, bullet, gun powder, and primer.
Case: The body of the round.
Bullet: The projectile of the round
Gun Powder: The propellant of the round.
Primer: The initiator of the explosion that propels the bullet out of the case.
Any corrections to the above?
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I can tell you what I do (but you shouldn't listen to me):
1) I top-up the measure when it is about 1/3 full
2) When I get a new lot of powder, I pour the last few grains into the new one and shake it. IF I am loading max (never am, but some do), I work up the new max. Usually, I'll load a couple tenths low, the standard charge, and a couple tenths higher to verify accuracy.
I would never have a measure that empty, but if you check the charge weight, you can keep going until you can't get a full charge and throw that last couple of grains away, if you think it will actually contaminate your new lot.
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Polymethylmethacrylate and its copolymers will crack from physically being over-stressed or exposure to chemicals or exposure to ozone or exposure to UV. The parts may even be poorly molded and have excess stress molded in such that they are sensitive to any impact (even vibration).
Do you have a mercury vapor or sodium vapor light? If it real close to a fluorescent light?
Do you have electrical equipment operating in the area?
Do you use aerosol sprays in the area?
Does the area get very hot? Above certain temperatures, the polymer will stress crack from exposure to environmental agents that it is inert to at lower temperatures.
I can say that mine have never had any problems and, in general, the material isn't sensitive to a normal reloading environment.
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The F.A.R. uses proprietary cases with a longer solid head, as I understand it, for use in a straight blow-back action. The use of a fixed barrel is supposed to increase accuracy (I assume the sights are on the barrel and/or frame and NOT on the slide.
Thus, there is no readily available load data. What data exists should come from Tanfaglio.
This seems to be a European-conceived of solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Best bet I would have would be to determine the internal volume of the case and find a 9mm cartridge with the same or smaller internal volume and start with that cartridge's starting loads and work up. I would "assume" that you might be able to start with the starting loads for 9x19 and work up.
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9x21 has two historical uses:
1) As a legal substitute for 9x19 in countries that will not let civilians use military calibers. Here, they tend to load short and the round is no more than a 9x19.
2) In the US action pistol area it was loaded long and hot. These are not SAAMI or European ordnance group approved.
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The Dillon measure works fine on the Hornady. The Hornady works fine on a Dillon.
If your concern is +/-0.1gn, that is standard handloading tolerance. If you are getting +/- 0.5gn, that is a concern and, with Clays, a recipe for disaster.
I have never had any problems metering Clays through a Lee Pro Auto-Disk, a Hornady L-N-L measure, or a Dillon measure.
However, I have seen/felt severe pressure increases with a 0.2gn increase in charge weight. I really like Bullseye, AA2, and 231/HP38 for this application.
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I have nothing for a 155gn lead bullet and N320. The following is the jacketed data I have. For lead bullets, I would start at 4.5gn and work up.
.40 S&W
Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Start/Max Power Factor COL
HP-XTP 155 N320 5.1 1091 Start 169
FP 155 N320 5.2 0
XTP 155 N320 5.2 0
JHP 155 N320 5.4 1020 158 1.1770
FP 155 N320 5.8 1157 179 1.1260
XTP 155 N320 5.8 1178 183 1.1260
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You are not going to find a manual that includes Precision bullets or almost any other commercial bullet unless the company is Sierra, Speer, Hornady, Nosler, and others.
You load them just like any other lead bullet.
You should always target the longest COL that fits your magazine and feeds and chambers in your gun.
The RNFP bullet will probably require a 1.200" COL (probably won't chamber if any longer).
You don't need to WAG the powder charge--start at the starting load and work up. Determine your starting load by referencing two or more manuals and start with the lowest starting load.
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Sorry to hear about your health. I would say come to Arizona, but it gets cold here at night during the winter.
I was all excited about retirement 6 years ago, and my health dropped like a stone after retirement.
If you have full autos, have you considered a Dillon 1050?
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I don't know how many rounds you need to crank out, but the Hornady is very easy to work without a case feeder, unlike the Dillons.
It is easy to slide in an empty case, look down at the charged case, and place a bullet on it, all with the left hand.
I would recommend that you try to enjoy what you have so you are ready for the case feeder and only have that to get used to.
Also, with a case feeder, you need to do all your case inspection before or after case cleaning. I take all my brass from the range and inspect, deprime, and sort prior to cleaning as I am not going to be able to look at the case individually after that.
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I would have expected Dillon to want to do forensics on it.
If the initial primer detonation was between the slide and the shellplate or the primer punch, how did the tube go off?
If the tube went off, did the primer that was to be seated also blow up?
Gee, I have some still-new black plugs.
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I am sure this isn't what you want, but 4.3gn TiteGroup is the start and 5.2gn TiteGroup is Max.
4.5gn may be what you want.
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I am sure you all know better than I do, but:
1) What happened to starting low and working up to find the load
and
2) My records indicate that 4.0-4.2 Clays is a maximum load.
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TZahoy:
I remember that when I bought a pound of PB back in the dark ages (before '90s).
It was the first powder I bought that still reeked of MEK/MIBK and other solvents. I think the porous base lets if "hold" solvent better.
It performed fairly well in 9x19 and .45ACP.
And it was the first powder that left totally clean cases after firing.
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I'll take your word for it.
All the WCC brass I have is military.
Would expect that the rounds being sold might be over-runs as there is no reason I know of the crimp commercial rounds.
1050 Tips and Tricks
in Reloading FAQs
Posted
mike1911: My "W" shellplate just lets a 9x19 case sort of float. I wouldn't trust it to pull out of the sizing or expander dies.
My 9mm shellplate will not take a .40 S&W case. It will "almost," but it just can't quite do it.
If you have the tolerances just right, you probably could, but I would worry about damaging the shell plate or sticking a bunch of cases.
I was "shocked" when I read that Lee's shellplates are made for 9mm and .40S&W, but you need the .40/10mm shellplate for 10mm Auto. None of that makes any sense to me as the head of a .40=the head of a 10mm.