noylj
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Posts posted by noylj
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The spirit of competition vs. the need to "play the game" and win. Personally with the drop in PFs, the games are becoming JUST games. I preferred the days of, what was it?, 175 PF?
At the rate PF is dropping, we'll be seeing .380 comp guns.
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Never have just one set of dies if you loading for a match within a couple of days. Plan ahead.
Never heard of the carbide ring coming out, but it happens.
I assume that you will call Dillon and they will take care of it.
If both surfaces aren't scrupulously clean and properly prepared, you will have adhesive failure.
What was failure mode? Was adhesive left on both bond surfaces (the carbide and the steel)? If so, the failure was cohesive and part preparation was as good as possible and Dillon needs to look for a different adhesive. One assumes that neither the carbide or the steel surfaces failed. If so, then there was a problem with that part that needs to be addressed. If the failure was adhesive (all the adhesive stuck to one surface and there isn't adhesive on the opposite bond surfaces at any given bond point, then the failure was due to lack of cleanliness or other surface preparation treatment was not done correctly.
(Can you tell I was an aerospace engineer who worked with adhesives?)
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.45ACP is a taper crimp. You only need to eliminate the belling. Look at the case against a well-lit white background. Can you detect any remnent of the belling? If so, increase crimp.
Have attached cartridge drawing. The case at the mouth should be .470-.473" if you are into measuring and trying to be scientifical.
For decades, I have used a factory round to set the taper crimp die. If factory rounds feed without a problem, then they must have the right crimp—right?
Take out your barrel and use it to establish your crimp and COL (the cartridge should drop in the chamber with a nice CLUNK and the case head should be flush or slightly below the barrel hood). Your barrel is your friend, use it.
Load a couple of dummy rounds (no powder and no primer) so you can function test (fit magazine, feeds, and chambers). Label these with bullet and dimension information. Load 10 rounds. Go to the range and ensure that they work in your gun. Load more and enjoy.
Make a record of what you do and what happens.
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1) Send Lee two or three bullets and something like $12 and they'll make a custom seating die stem for you.
2) I have no idea how you can be bulging the case but if you can't get even half decent alignment, you need to work on your expander/belling die. If you loading a bottleneck case, I am even more lost and can only recommend a boat-tail bullet and additional chamfering of the case.
3) I really don't understand your procedure. Put a sized and empty case in the shell holder/shell plate and raise the ram. Screw in the seating die until you hit the crimp section and then back the die out one or two turns. Unsrew the seating plug as high as you can. Lower the case, place a bullet on the case, run it up into the die, screw the seating down until it touches the bullet. Lower the case a little and turn the seater stem down a half turn more. Run the case and bullet into the die and lock the die down (it is now aligned with the case). Continue to lower the case a little and screw the seating stem down until you achieve your target COL. Lock the seating stem down (or, on your Lee, is already is with the friction from the o-ring).
4) if, again, your problem is the bullet rocking back on forth on the case, you need to improve the case belling. Lee powder-through expander dies have always worked for me. If not, get a Lyman M-series expander die.
5) If you simply can't get the bullet to not rock on the case and you are still getting bulged cases (which the Lee FCD will iron out but may swage the bullet), you may want a Hornady New Dimension Seating Die. I have looked at Lee, RCBS, Redding, and Hornady seating dies (no Pro series or anything) in .38 Special Wadcutter and .45 ACP and I rate them in terms of accuracy of the reloaded ammunition as Lee, Hornady, Redding, and RCBS. This was taking the average of twenty or more 5-shot groups and the data was still not that statistically significant.
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Bullseye may not meter well for everyone and every powder measure. It is an excellent fast powder, along with Red Dot, N310, and AA2.
There's that word again—dirty. Just what does that mean? Does it leave unburned powder in your gun that causes your gun to not work? Never seen it happen, but if you say it does in your gun, you would know.
Are you concerned about the ash remaining in the barrel? Why? It doesn't build up and isn't abrasive.
The criteria for powder selection is 1) accuracy and 2) metering issues.
Every one keeps talking about "dirty" like it does damage to the gun or something.
Bullseye, Red Dot, Unique, Herco, and Blue Dot are all outstanding powders based on my two criteria.
I have found that AA2 and 231/HP38 are best in my model 52 .38 Special 148gn HBWC guns and my various .45s with 200gn L-SWC. But the selection was based on the two criteria above.
Might as well only buy powders that don't have a graphite coating as it will dirty your powder measure.
I just don't understand and, even if explained, I would still be shaking my head.
Since I don't compete and have never had a "smoking" issue with any cast bullet or powder, I can only sympathize with those that lose sight of the target due to the high volume of smoke from their gun in fast action-pistol competition. Likewise, since I have never fired at night, I can only sympathize with those who complain about the bright flash of a given powder.
But dirty?
Huhh......
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To be worth the cost, the RF 100 should load several primer fill tubes automatically so that you simply put a few hundred primers in, load 5-10 tubes, walk away and come back. Likewise, it would be nice if you could have about four full primer tubes and shields that would rotate has to new primer tube when you get down to just 2 or 3 primers in a tube and you could re-fill the tubes on the machine just like now. However, APs have enough problems with primer feed...
Also, the RF 100 I saw was pretty noisy.
I still don't know how you set off a feed tube of primers (since the primer being worked on is separated from the primer tube by at least an inch, and would rather not find out.
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I inspect, sort, and deprime prior to cleaning. Seems the most logical time to me.
All by hand, as, after cleaning, they go into a case feeder or into storage. I haven't had any problems with .380, but I did get a 9x18Mak in with my 9x19 and the 1050 tried to reload it. Ended up with a slight bottleneck case when I decided "Hey, that feels too hard...wtf is wrong." It took only one 9x18 Mak case for me to want to ban the caliber.
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Re: COL per Ramshot
"It is important to note that the SAAMI “COL” values are for the firearms and ammunition manufacturers industry and must
be seen as a guideline only.
The individual reloader is free to adjust this dimension to suit their particular firearm-component-weapon combination.
This parameter is determined by various dimensions such as 1) magazine length (space), 2) freebore-lead dimensions of
the barrel, 3) ogive or profile of the projectile and 4) position of cannelure or crimp groove."
You have to determine what works in your gun. I have always loaded 200gn H&G 68-style L-SWCs out to 1.257-1.270 (as long as possible to fit magazine, feed reliably, and easily chamber).
I have always used the barrel or cylinder of the gun I am reloading for to determine COL.
The short-nose SWCs will have a corresponding shorter COL.
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Trying to dig out of the swamp, I am amazed how seldom reloading manuals specify COL. They are, I think, getting better at it.
However, COL really is up to the individual reloader and what he or she prefers and has found to work best with their gun.
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1) the plastic tip of the primer tube is bent/flared/damaged and needs to be replaced. Dillon should supply a box of a hundred of the damn things.
2) the slide roll pin sleeve (rubber tube) on the end of the primer slide/shuttle is cut or missing
3) the slide actuating lever is bent or out of alignment
4) there is a burr on the primer slide/shuttle or the primer punch bushing or the sliding surface of the base
5) dirt/grain of powder
I hear about these shims, but I have no idea where they would go
I only wish I knew someone who disliked their 1050 so I could take it out of their life and they could be happy.
If I thought bad-mouthing them would make the used price drop, I would start a campaign.
Let's see, you can buy a new one for $1550 or so and use it for sometime, get tired of it and sell it on eBay for $1450. That depreciation will kill you.
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I got a used RL 1050, then I got another used RL 1050, then I got a used Super 1050.
Do you see a trend here? The 1050 can be a very expensive machine to get 'cause one just isn't enough.
I now have a .45 machine and a .38 Special Wadcutter machine and a general machine that loads .38 Super and 9x19 and .40S&W and .223 and .308 and 10mm Auto and 9x21. I already see a desperate need for a dedicated machine for 9x19 and 9x21. Then, a dedicated machine for .40S&W and 10mm Auto. The list just grows. Now, however, I am thinking I may have to sell one or both RL 1050s as Obamanomics has destroyed my retirement...
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Whose gun can differentiate between a 124 and a 125 gn bullet, unless the construction is wildly different. You're picking nits...
COL is determined by your barrel and magazine. Load a dummy round or two. First remove your barrel from your gun and take the barrel to your reloading bench. You now have the most perfect gauge to determine dimensions.
Resize a couple of cases and verify that they drop in the barrel with a nice "clunk." Now expand and bell the mouths of the cases. Seat a bullet and set the COL to about 1.170. Remove the bell but do not crimp the bullet yet. Does the dummy fit in you magazine or is it too long? If too long, it needs to be seated deeper.
Keep removing the bell until the dummy slides into the barrel. If it slides in the barrel but is too long to chamber completely, then go back and seat the bullet deeper. Try a COL of 1.150. I know the typical COL for the Zero 124 gn JHP is 1.145, so you FMJ should be slightly longer. When you get a COL that fits the magazine, feeds properly (good reason to have two dummies), and chambers properly, then you crimp the dummies, mark them for bullet used, and use them to set up your dies any time you load that bullet.
Remember, COL is entirely based on your gun and, in general, I advocate the longest cartridge that fits your magazine, feeds reliably, and chambers in your gun.
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I show 4.6-4.7gn 231/HP38 as the starting load for 600-625 fps.
I would go to a 200 gn bullet myself.
Getting a lighter recoil spring is one way, but how did the loads feel? Did they feel almost like squibs or was it just that your gun wasn't cycling them? It the loads felt good, then go with a lighter spring. If they felt really weak, load 4.6 gn and see how it feels.
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I fill my tumbler about half full with media and then add the cases.
In my vibratory cleaner, I follow the manufacturer's recommendation to fill to within 1-2" of the top and then add cases.
The key to the vibratory is to verify that the media and cases are churning around and around and not simply bouncing up and down. You can add media to an empty bowl with the vibrator turned on until it starts to "flow" around the bowl.
Also, stick a paper towel or a used fabric-softener sheet in you vibratory to pick up at least some of the dust.
I recommend the RCBS media separator as it works as well an any others and has a lid to help keep the dust down—for all those vibrator people out there.
I have also scraped my vibratory as I prefer the tumbler—quieter, cleaner, and just as fast.
I even place a jar about 3/4 full of cast bullets and a squirt of LLA and tumble them for 2-5 minutes in the drum. If there is enough LLA to get a drip, you used too much.
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Personally, when my 1 lb bottle of AA2 was nearly empty, I just poured the remainder into my new bottle and shook it. Did the same with Unique, Herco, and Silhouette. The most that I am doing is creating a new lot. I just don't see where about 1% or less of a different lot blended into the new lot can make any difference. The new lot, blended or not, will need to tested to determine if it performs any different any way.
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Was a member of indoor range (Target Masters) in MIlpitas California about 25 years ago. Went there the day they just finished re-doing the 25 yard range. When I got there, I was told that the MPD had just finished their shoot.
Walked in and I was blinded. The floor of the range from the carpeted shooting area to the back wall was gold, covered in .38 Special brass. I swept out my shooting area and most of the rest of the carpeted area (filled a 5-gallon bucket) and got ready to shot. Looked at my shooting bench. There was a hole in it. Looked at the walls and saw the the carpet on the walls was all shot up. The ceiling panels were all shot up. This had been a brand new range before they got in there.
LEOs shot for free and I wish they came in more often--to learn and not just burn up ammo.
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I taught my son on my old (~3 years) Hornady L-N-L AP (I have been using a Hornady AP since at least 1980, if not a bit earlier).
Looking at it with "fresh eyes," I was impressed with how open it is and simple. I have loaded on a 650, and I found it uncomfortable. As I told one gentlemen looking to buy a 650, "you'll really be happier if you buy the case feeder."
With the Hornady, you have room, you can see what is happening, your left hand handles bullets and cases and your right hand cranks the handle. I found it very easy to teach my son and we had no problems. I like the fact that the bullet seating station 4 is right under your nose so there is no excuse not to look in the case as you place a bullet on it. The primer system only had one problem--it didn't feed the very last primer very well. Now, they come with a follower, I heard, like Dillon. I told my son to order a follower from Dillon.
Compared to my 1050s, it was very insensitive to a little dirt or powder spill. Caliber conversions are less expensive than Dillons, and teh conversions seem to be faster to complete than my memory of the 650.
You also get 500 free bullets if you buy it new. The new ejector looks like a real winner (the older L-N-L used a bent wire and I could never get the damn thing to work and it kept interfering with the crimp dies. I never needed though as it is just as simple to place the bullet, flip the loaded round off, and inert a new case.
The only Dillon press I am really impressed with is the 1050 and it is NOT a beginner's machine or one to use if you want to change calibers frequently. It is for loading several thousand rounds before a caliber change, if ever, and you find the only thing slowing you down is that the primer feed keeps running out of primers.
I have never used a Lee or RCBS AP, but in the past they never looked that impressive.
You may think your 650 is better, but have you actually spent time on a Hornady? The only negative might be that it is red like another brand (or at least I think it is, being color blind and all)...
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I taught my son to reload on a Hornady Lock-N-Load. Looking at it as a newbie I noticed how clean and uncluttered it was. We could easily watch and adjust, if needed, each step. There are no cramped quarters or such. I had used Hornady progressives since the 70s (Pro 7 or something like that). It was the first 5-station press that was affordable. Never regretted it and certainly never had blue-envy. Worked with the 550 and 650 that friends had and didn't like them as well. Part is you like what you are used to and part is the Dillons just felt cramped and uncomfortable/unergonomic to me. One thing I have noticed--the Dillon users have seldom if ever actually used another brand of progressive.
I know that the Hornady L-N-L caliber conversion is cheaper and faster than the Dillons and I know that I have had fewer priming problems with my Hornday then I had with the Blue models.
Everyone looking for some facts and analysis should read: http://www.comrace.ca/cmfiles/dillonLeeHornadyComparison.pdf
I currently have three Dillon presses and my son has my old Hornady. My presses are NOT blue. Depending on you how look at them, they are either 6- or 8-station presses. Two RL1050s (I think) and one Super1050.
The great thing is when I have a problem, and I have had problems with the three Dillons, the factory/store is just 2 hours away.
If the Hornady had 6 die stations, I would probably still be using the Hornady.
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My personal thought is a gun that doesn't exist but I have asked Springfield a couple times to make it.
A custom Springfield EMP with at least a 4.5" barrel and longer slide. The gun just screams for a woman's hand to hold it.
You might want to have her handle one and see what she thinks. She may just decide that it is a perfect "feeling" grip. She probably would not like having to rack or shoot it, but you could start bugging Springfield to bring out a female competion gun.
You can get a 1911 with very thin grips and a short trigger that would feel good in her hands. You could even work with a lighter recoil spring and load her special light ammuntion so she enjoys it.
The Sig 1911-type gun in .380 (Sig P380??) might feel very good in her hand, but again it is a concealed carry gun with too short a barrel and probably too stiff a recoil spring.
A single action CZ75 or clone with a straight trigger might feel good to her.
The older S&W M39 single stack might feel good to her also.
I would think that the goal should not be to force her into a specific type or class of competition, but simply have her with you enjoying shooting and some form of competition. Lots of women enjoy a Colt SAA in .32-20 or .38 Special.
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There are, in the world, two different 9x21 uses.
In some countries that ban civilians from 9x19, 'cause it is a military round, the 9x21 is loaded like a 9x19—same overall length and same overall performance and pressure.
Then there are countries where the 9x21 is loaded to higher levels than the 9x19. The bullets are seated out much further than permitted for 9x19 and heavier charges are used.
I have no idea which one SAAMI used for their specifications—but expect they went with the first. However, since my 9x21s are all purely handloading guns (I have never seen a box of factory ammo), I load them for what I and the gun can handle (but don't even attempt to reach a max load). It can be loaded very close to equal the velocity of the .38Super. I would expect that almost every 9x21 gun in the US is chambered for high performance and not to duplicate 9x19 levels.
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All 9mm brass? All different brands? Make sure that you have this problem with commercial brass (i.e., Win, R.P., Speer, etc.)
Just remember, while you are getting frustrated, never force anything.
1) Berdan primed--look inside the case for one or two off center holes.
2) I just hit this yesterday with my 1050—the brass looked like it was heaadstamped in Cyrillic (Russian) and the flash hole was too small. Threw the case away.
3) Military brass with crimped in primer that is stronger than you and your press?
4) Always lube 9mm cases. The carbide insert is much longer, to handle the case taper, and really applies pressure the insert walls
5) depriming pin is bent or off-center--one assumes that the primer was not punched out
6 Get a classic Lee Loader and hammer that case into submission
7) you have entered the Twilight Zone and need to call the die manufacturer.
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Going back to the original question, this is really something you should ask Dillon. I would expect that if Dillon had an opinion/recommendation, that BE would know and have it posted in the FAQ section or somewhere (I am new).
I know in the Lee book he states that Federal primers detonate and shatter equipment, CCI and Winchester are more gentle in a primer chain reaction. I would be more worried about the hand primers blowing up than the progressive press since the primer being loaded is a lot closer to all the other primers with the hand priming tool, but I haven't read about one going off on someone.
I know that I have had rare problems with Fed primers in my 1050s that I haven't seen with other brands—the rare sideways-seated and crushed primer. In my Hornady L-N-L I have had the rare problem with CCI primers. However, both could be more lot related than brand related or even just the phase of the moon.
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I have maintained a compilation of reloading manual data over the last 30 years. It is always quite amazing the range in starting and maximum loads.
For a 115gn jacketed bullet, the lowest starting load with Bullseye is 3.5gn and the lowest maximum load is 4.0gn. I won't even hint at the highest starting and maximum loads that manuals have shown.
If there is any powder you can go lighter with, it is Bullseye. I would be looking at Unique myself for the 9mm, unless you are purposely trying to develop a light load for Bullseye competition. Personally, for just plain shooting and having fun, there is nothing wrong with a very light target load.
If recoil feels harsh (not a known trait of service-grade 9x19s, you might want to look into a new recoil spring or even a mainspring.
For my wife I have developed some rather light target loads in 9mm using N310 and AA2 and she is relatively happy
Again, unless it is a competition race gun and you need to meet a minimum power factor (or SD/HD), there is no reason to shoot a heavier load than will cycle your gun.
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Just joined. Figure this would be a good place to go when I have questions about Dillon 1050s. Not into competitive shooting, just reloading and shooting for personal enjoyment. One thing I have to watch out about is I am told sometimes I come across as belligerent. I'm not, and I can't really change who I am...
Cleaning brass
in General Reloading
Posted
The "recommended" procedure has nothing to do with clean brass and everything to do with shiny brass. The "required" procedure is to wipe the outside of the case with a clean clothe to remove any dirt/grit/ash/soot. Anything beyond that is done for pride.
I simply sort, inspect, and deprime when I get back from the range (or some convenient time afterwards). If I get a grain of corn cob tuck in the flah hole, it will be knocked out when I resize the case. If there is still a grain of media in the cases (how I have no idea), it will not affect anything.
Seems some people spend more time and money making shiny brass than they spend reloading or shooting. Same people who reject a powder if their gun gets dirty (just like a gun is supposed to) and don't even consider accuracy or metering ability of the powder, just cleanliness.
Each to their own and what ever makes you confident in you loads, but don't tell any one else that it has to be done.