Whoops!
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Posts posted by Whoops!
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This is the first topic that has ever gotten me into the ZEN forum. It hits me pretty hard on a daily basis.
First, to answer the OP's question - Swingers' Party
Then, to the poster who said those that are miserable about life tend to think about themselves, I agree for the most part. That being said, I disagree in my case. My job is about service, and I do it exceedingly well. I enjoy doing it. I help a lot of people to a more major extent than most will ever understand.
However, people, in general, through experience, through life, disappoint me. They are petty, selfish, ignorant, and have so much wasted potential that it makes me sick on a regular basis. I don't look for service toward others to prove me otherwise on this. I look at the way people drive. I look at the way people act. I understand the way people think. I understand that courtesy requires a simple thought process. I understand most people don't have that thought process. I understand that many people are too dumb to ever be able to handle that thought process. There are so many more important things than courtesy and most of them require even more thought. On the inverse side, many people take offense to the stupidest, most harmless things imaginable. Question asking immediately comes to mind on this front; or even, words.
Unfortunately, bad parenting, bad decisions, bad genes have forced these people into our lives and our actions have to constantly compensate for theirs.
Further of consequence, they are too ignorant to realize they shouldn't have children and intelligent people are then dissuaded from doing so themselves. As has been proven time and again throughout history, people are their own end. No thought can stop that, future generations can only hope to accomplish more than the previous generations when it finally happens, and only smart people are able to rebuild.
To those who say life is meaningless so you may as well be happy . . . We set the foundation for future generations. There is no way humans can have any substantial meaning in our life. However, our life has meaning for the lives of those who come after us. Perhaps we can lay a good enough foundation for humans to someday have real meaning. There's no telling what our animal's unusual thought process may be able to accomplish in the Universe, if only these freaking people would work together better and not be ignorant.
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To answer all questions: The slide in frame design of the CZ while still utilizing the locking lug system of the 1911 make it a superior platform for shootability. There are some who will argue with me, but in my mind the physics of it is hard to argue with. It's also very nice to have the all steel frame. Sure, you can put a steel grip on a 2011 now, but they usually come with the plastic. The plastic flexes and doesn't add much recoil canceling weight.
The Tanfoglios use terrible parts regardless of the model. This is coming from a Gold Custom owner who's barrel apparently peened itself to death after approximately 5000 rounds, the wear was equal on all 3 lockup surfaces and on the slide. This is coming from someone who knows that Grauffel replaces the barrel on his guns way too often for comfort. I also know random gunsmiths who strongly recommend against Tanfoglios in general. I think it's quite fair to say they use crappy parts. This is all to say nothing of the smaller parts which tend to break even more often (The first thing to come to mind is the slide stop). I know of tons of other parts that competitive shooters have issues with. In general, think of them as CZs with half the quality. Unless you're going entirely after market, you're pretty much SOL. Again, in my opinion and practical experience, there will be plenty who disagree . . . However, just look at the post above mine, when was the last time you had to communicate with the factory about your gun? Tanfoglio owners tend to become accustomed to the factory as long as the warranty is in effect.
I know much of this is hearsay, but again, my practical experience with the highest end model they make says they suck.
If you're into open guns, A v12 Gold Custom will convince you to get a 2011 pretty damn quick. That is unless of course you have factory backing throwing spare parts at you whenever needed.
However, in terms of sheer shooting performance, the Tanfoglio is better.
That being said, Tanfoglios are also some of the most beautiful guns on the market. I've never dabbled with the regular Witness models and don't know how they fair.
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Lets think about some of the ultimate dynamics of an open gun, as evidenced by that of Mr. Grauffel's:
Extremely light weight slide
Compensation as near to the point of ignition as possible
My order would be:
Glock 19
Glock 17
and lastly, Glock 34
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So, I found out that it doesn't matter if you heat cure it, clear coat it, mix it, or pay a lot for it, spray paint is still weak. It wasn't working out so I used brake cleaner (which, fyi, does a great job of cleaning the C-more without stripping the coating off the lens) to clean it all off. Then I dyed the grips black in boiling water and polished everything that was painted, except for the top of the C-more. Here are the new pics. New screws are coming for the mount, which explains why some are missing.
I really like the effect the polishing had on the bottom of the aluminum C-more.
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Really, to answer the question . . . there is no alternate powder that is somewhat available. Good luck finding any alternate period. You may get lucky finding some N105 in some little gun store somewhere. In general, we're all sol here.
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Joe, I'd appreciate it if you let us know when the SDP Production starts shipping to dealers for sale . . . Maybe even which dealers if possible.
Also, any projected msrp yet?
Thanks,
Zack
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XDM's have a lot of muzzle flip...
As far as ease to shoot and score well with, once properly setup . . .
CZ/Tanfoglio>2011>M&P>Glock>XDM
This list would be entirely different for a carry/duty pistol, I'm strictly talking competition.
That all being said, Tanfoglios use crappy, break prone parts. 2011's are expensive and need tuning. I really like the CZ Tactical Sport, great gun for limited, with it and proper setup (even with a completely stock trigger, which is comparatively wonderful), you can not currently blame any loss on your gun. I would not say the same about the XDM.
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Thanks. Bmiller, that's kind of the same thought I had when I first met my wife. Nah, I kid, I'm not married.
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Hi, you all may have seen my other thread . . . spoiler alert . . . they aren't real gold grips. That being said, don't hate me, I've finally completed my most recent open gun to my satisfaction.
It started as the blue Limcat upper you see below. It had previously been Accu-railed and some people made fun of me for buying a previously Accu-railed slide . . . little did they know I was getting modern Limcat engineering on the cheap, I believe this was in 2012 when his guns took all top 3 at Nationals. Wait, did Grauffel shoot the 2012 one? Maybe it was 2011? I can't remember, anyway, it was advertised to have 1500 rounds on it and the breech face looked great. I dropped 1400 for that ugly little thing, it was the most expensive part of the gun, but I wasn't paying for cosmetics.
Then, the blue, 1400 dollar upper sat in my range bag for about a year and a half until I moved to LA. There, I decided I finally had the funds to finish it. 2011 frames aren't cheap in California and they're hard to find because of socialist . . . I mean state laws. I ended up with a long dust cover frame for 900 bucks... yeah, that was for the frame alone . . . love California. I then picked up some parts . . .
Extreme Engineering trigger group: $150
Limcat Magwell: $70
Dawson Extended Mag Release: $40
Brazo's Slipstream Mount: $70
Aluminum C-more I already had: $I already had it
Wilson Combat ambi safeties and pin kit: $75
Ed Brown Grip Safety: $40
Price thus far for a Cali built open gun with Limcat engineering and almost no rounds on it: $2745
Bead blasted upper: $70
Then, it went to Doug Brown for it to be put together . . . I'm hesitant to give his price away because I think he made a mistake and didn't charge me enough. Lets just say, I feel it was very fair to fit all the lower components and accu-rail the slide to the frame. Let me just make up a total thus far of $3400 and call it square. At this point, the gun was fully operational. It looked like the black gripped gun below.
Initially upon taking it to the range, it failed to eject and feed. Polishing the underside of the slide and putting a radius on the edge fixed the failures to feed. Tuning the ejector fixed the failures to eject.
It worked... well enough to shoot the Florida Open and not malfunction once. The cosmetics just didn't quite sit with me though. So eventually...
I stippled the grip with a desoldering iron. I didn't have a soldering iron and I knew the desoldering iron would work, I just didn't quite know how the pattern would look. It turned out ok in my eyes.
I took the gun entirely apart. Gave the frame and the barrel to an EDM shop and told them what I wanted, less weight on the frame and a bigger hole in the end of the comp in order to join together the last two ports and release the vacuum from the shot quicker: $135
I painted the grip, the mount, the slide racker, and the C-more with various types of paints and coats. Some of it was trial and error. I wanted to try a clear Plasti Dip on top of the paint for resistance to scratching on table starts... that didn't work out. The only clear coat I liked was Killer Cans Clear . . . at 40 bucks a bottle. I ended up only clear coating the C-more and the grip. For the mount and racker, I finally settled on just a thick coat of paint+primer as the best solution. : $70 bucks
I polished the sides of the slide and comp and repolished the magwell and further polished all of the controls and barrel as well as thinned down the slide racker: $6 bucks and a loooot of time.
I can not tell you how many hours of labor have gone into this gun. Limcat, Doug Jones, myself, and others have put hundreds, if not thousands of hours into it.
It runs extremely smooth and, in my opinion anyway, looks very good. It is utterly reliable with 38 supercomp, 38 super, and 9mm. I love Aftec and the other tricks I have picked up along the way. The gold and polished pics are the final product. I hope you enjoy. It's a stunner in real life with the metallic gold and all of the mirror polished parts.
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I like this idea and will try it in two months.
Anyone know how much weight before the tube and stock on the Versamax break?
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When discussing competitive performance, yes. Reference KC Eusebio.
When discussing load flexibility, adaptability, reusability . . . no.
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I too don't want a bunch of odd ball classes. This is why single-stack and revolver need to be eliminated (both are extremely outdated, plus single stacks can be shot in limited 10 and revolvers shot in production), and tactical optics needs to be added.
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I'm going to go against everyone here and say it depends on the size of your thumb. Short has been an excellent way to go on mine, my thumbs do not get caught and the extra leverage I get from the shells loading higher in the port help me shove them in the tube easier.
That being said, the competition tactical does not seem worth it, it's still long enough to Chinese Finger Trap your thumb and it won't make shell loading any easier (if anything, the opposite)
However, from a physics standpoint the Competition Tactical lifter should be more reliable than the C-Rums. Notice the substantial depression at the end of the Remington lifter? That guides the shells into the chamber. Without it, the gun can not be as reliable. Notice how I wrote this now . . . your gun may be perceived reliable, but it can not be as reliable. I still think cutting down the prongs on the stock lifter is the best way to go. You preserve chamber guidance and it's short enough to not catch an average person's thumb.
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Agreed with production or tactical optics, there has been quite a bit of voice in support of it. Basically, no comp, red dot would probably be the way to go with the division. I'd support it, because it really would be useful in today's age of always-on red dots.
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If both the ejector and the extractor are proper, check the breech face on the new slide and make sure the timing is correct. There really aren't many variables left to check and it's guaranteed to be one of those that was already mentioned with these two added.
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I clear coated it to protect the gold a little, pretty pimp right?
I wish I had gotten a picture before the clear coat, it was so shiny....
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No one mentions the sxp, which is slick as hell.
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For anyone interested, Midwest Gun Works has the Benelli parts in stock
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Cool, good to know
Anyone know a good source for these factory Benelli parts? Midway seems to be out of stock on some essential things.
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The hammer sucks, mine is already peening itself to death after roughly 500 hits.
It depends on how the cam pin was peened, but it is still unlikely in my opinion. Did the loads get stuck on one side of the chamber or the other? Have you tried cleaning everything? A lot of people have issues with shells getting stuck on the right side of the chamber on the way in. Most people throat the chamber on that side to fix it. One thing that alerts me is the high brass buck rounds were likely 3" and the rem gun club were likely 2 3/4". Are you having issues with different lengths? There are a lot of possibilities in shotguns that don't tend to pop up with handguns or rifles, makes it more difficult.
For now, clean everything and try again. Then we can do some basic things to enhance reliability which will make it go longer between cleanings (or even without cleaning) while still running reliably.
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Don't feel like waiting for a gunsmith to modify your Versamax and don't want to worry about it going through a shipping service across state lines? I don't either.
For the life of me I can't figure out why someone hasn't already done this. Instead of welding and lengthening the lifter to get rid of thumb bite, shorten and polish it. I made it short enough so that when the lifter is horizontal in the loading port, I can still slide my thumb in and out of the loading port in front of it. In order to minimize the right side jams people may get on Versamax platforms, I left the right side of the lifter just slightly longer than the left (from this underside view, it's the left side that is ever so slightly longer). The U-shape is still preserved to guide the shells into the chamber. After doing this mod, I ran 100 mixed shells through with no issue. In fact, the bolt now runs much smoother thanks to the lightening and polishing of the lifter. This was the fastest polish job I've ever done. I went from grinding the lifter with a stone on a Dremel to 1000 grit sandpaper and finished with MAAS crème. It looks great, there are some very minute pits from the grinding that would've been eliminated if I went through the sandpaper grits instead of jumping to 1000, but I did this really quickly this morning before heading to the range. Even if I really try hard and jam my thumb against the lifter when coming out of the loading port, there is a lot more material to jam it on since the prongs on the lifter are thicker and cover more surface area the farther you shorten it. This means no bleeding, at least for me.
There are additional benefits to shortening the lifter instead of lengthening it. The lifter has less weight to deal with and moves faster. Quads are now easy even with a stock shell catch. Why is this you ask? The shells now have plenty of room to touch the bolt in front of the lifter when loading with the shotgun upside down or to the side. The closer the shells are to the bolt (the higher they are in the loading port), the less likely they are to jam on the shell catch when loading. I don't even feel like I need to open up the loading port area now.
It runs slick.
If I want to run in open it will be easier to speed load because you can jam the tube farther up there and push the shells out. For right now, I really think it's a better route than lengthening.
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Update: Federal slugs shoot point of aim, don't use cheap Winchester slugs
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Thanks a ton for that, I just learned that Aimpoint does indeed use Pulse Width Modulation which causes it to flash at a rate not detectable to the human eye.
I agree that a C-more can be super duper fast. But, what makes us human if not for want of more? I don't believe C-more uses any Flashing in its system, and I'm thinking it may just be time for a refurb . . . or a new sight. Although, from reading this and doing some research, I just got a very interesting idea for my C-more
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When an LED is on, then off, then on again in a short amount of time, I consider that flickering. Let me check the definition for this...
Yeah, essentially flicker can mean a change in brightness or existence. So, either way would work.
I don't like your suggestion because I, as a person, am perfect. I am the model human in terms of both health and appearance. But, especially appearance.
I added a smiley to the other post in case you took it too seriously.
Similarities between CZ's and Sphinxes
in CZ
Posted
Thanks Joe