Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Mbauer67

Classifieds
  • Posts

    556
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mbauer67

  1. This is the same problem I have experienced with both of my versamaxes, I went down the polishing all the mating internal parts and that helped but did not totally get ride of the problem when the gun got a little dirty. What solved the problem was to change the action spring with either a stock Benelli spring or a wolf +25% rate one. Personally if I had to do it again I would start with the Benelli then only go to the higher rate wolf if necessary.

    Also you should chamfer the area near the extractor contacts the barrel to make sure it feeds properly.

  2. Depends on how wet the soil is and what kind of dirt your in, could be an issue until you have things where they need to be. The activator could be locked to the popper. You don't want tension to be enough to pull something from the ground, rather make it just enough to activate the target.

    This is the most clever design I have come up with, it allows activation from any angle, by a pull, and the spring allows it to self re lock once you release the tension on the cable, 360 degrees it is the same release.

    It amounts to two washers, a spring and a section of tubing sectioned in half. Saw cuts for the top washer so it turned into a "U" and when tension from the activator is eliminated it latches back.popup.jpg

    For the record you are a excellent designer, a level of creativity i haven't seen in many.

  3. Even on a 1050 you need to do a 2 head process. One processes/preps the brass, and the 2nd loads it

    But the pain of removing primer crimp in a separate process is removed.

    jj

    With the exception of trimming it, why is a 2 head process needed?

    Trimming and final neck sizing are what makes it 2 head process, and I would highly advise against trying to skip the trimming process.

  4. Youngeyes, I watched the video. I am not currently doing that.

    What is the easiest /best way to size 1000's of cases from many different rifeles?

    Motorized or hand-cranked 1050, or maybe a 650 with case feeder.

    This is the only way in my world, that and use Dillon luve

  5. Damn it, I just finished the last primer tube of 308 ammo and start breaking the press down. Then I realize the powder hopper is empty and look at the 1050 bin full of ammo.

    S$%t

    Got about 100 rounds with no powder

  6. I would pretty much put it like this, you need to fix the problem right after it occurs, so if you miss a shot and have to make it up, then load one shell in right away and you are right back on your original plan immediately. if it happens again on the same stage, just repeat the procedure. The fact of it is you made a small mistake and the goal is to keep the mistake as small as possible. After it happens keeping the error As small as possible is all you can.

    I never thought about trying that. But that might be the best way to keep me on track. I unless have my tacom quad load on my chest and I have some load 2's on my belt. I suppose if I fubared a shot I could just grab two from the belt, load one and toss the other.

    I have a 12 round tube, with 8+1 at the start I am wondering if on big stages I should just load 4 right from the start rather than plan a 8 round string then reload. That way I can count shots and a miss wont be as critical.

    I always have a 4 she'll caddie on my belt, so I have easy access for a shell or two if needed, otherwise I normally quad load. It is very easy to get flustered and try to rush, but your just screwing yourself more. Make a plan and if you have to adjust, keep it small, and do not try to make up the time, because you can't it's gone when you missed, so stop that. Just focus on shooting smooth, like your trying to balance a cup of water on your head, smoootth

  7. I would pretty much put it like this, you need to fix the problem right after it occurs, so if you miss a shot and have to make it up, then load one shell in right away and you are right back on your original plan immediately. if it happens again on the same stage, just repeat the procedure. The fact of it is you made a small mistake and the goal is to keep the mistake as small as possible. After it happens keeping the error As small as possible is all you can.

  8. A little follow up on my issues also, I sanded smooth and polished all the parts on the trigger lifter and she'll stop where they interact and gun runs now, but will still hang open when racking in the first shell. I also ordered the +25% power Benelli springs and plan on installing them in both my guns for a little extra insurance. I think the stock Remington ones are just plain too week to overcome all the friction in the action.

    Honestly I am little disappointed on a few details on the versamax from Remington, especially with regards to the shell latch, a stock gun that is so hard to load is just pitiful.

    But as I see it any new platform has its issues when it first starts out, but I hope Remington gets there QC issues figured out.

  9. On this same topic of being smooth and seeing what you need to see, I came to a very abrupt realization the other day. There is a podcast called the three gun show, and they interviewed jerry miculek, and he said a few things during that interview that we're ah ha moments for me.

    Such as mental expectations and pressure

    Different types of focus

    And watching things happen versus trying to make them happen.

  10. I was asked to writes sentences of advice for new shooters, here is what I wrote, maybe someone else can benefit from it.

    When you are a new shooter there are a lot of things to think about, but one piece of advice I would give is to only shoot as fast as you can see. What this means is really focus on only putting accurate shots on target, if you are shooting very quickly at a pace that is above your skill level, you will have no idea where you are hitting on the target. The second is to be efficient at all times, the goal for any stage is to put rounds on target as fast as possible, so if one has to move between two targets arrays, do it fast, look for other targets to shoot while moving, do a reload, then have the rifle up on your shoulder and aimed at the target, ready to squeezed off a well aimed shot. Finally always remember it is 90% indian and 10% arrow.

  11. Widows, I started from one end by putting one holder against the fabric edge. Then I figured how much to space off to make the next one touch. Space between pairs is stock spacing, and I can still do load-2 with the belt this way because of this space. I only ended up using 2 or 3 factory hole sets, all others were added to fit the pattern. The last holder at the other end is also touching the fabric edge. I ended up drawing it up on masking tape on the belt, measuring things with a right-angle and caliper, then using a punch and hammer to put in the new holes. With this spacing I was able to fit 12 holders, 24 shells on the 20 shell belt. The extra two holders sourced from: 1 - the spare it comes with, 1 - I bought two belts initially and took the spare from the second one.

    I also used a belt sander to remove material from the shell cups. Two reasons, one it allows the adjacent holders to be closer together (very important for load-4 I'm finding), two it slightly decreases retention (also important when trying to grab 4 shells off the belt at once).

    One thing I learned is that getting adjacent holders spaced properly is tricky. If you measure it out so they are touching with the belt flat, once you wear the belt the curvature separates them by quite a bit. So to measure it out you should work on it while curved - though it will never store flat again if you build it that tight.

    Would you mind sharing the approximate dimensions you used for hole spacing, I am going to do this same modification to my belt for Hard as Hell and Ironman. Since you have already done 90% of the leg work, and done very well i might add.

×
×
  • Create New...