zen_grasshopper
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Posts posted by zen_grasshopper
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How they come from the factory.
Sku: 91256 Shadow 2 - Nitrided frame and slide with the blue grips, no poly coat. MSRP is $100 more than the other models as the nitride doesn't hide the casting flaws like poly coat, so more QC to find those frames. Everything else is the same components.
Sku: 91254 Black Shadow 2 - Black grips, slide and frame are nitrided and then frame is black poly coated.
Sku: 91255 Urban Grey Shadow 2 - Black grips, slide and frame are nitrided and then frame is urban grey poly coated.If you want the blue grips, trying to find a nitrided only gun is a rarity as they only bring in a couple due to a small number of frames that meet the standard. So if the seller will put the blue grips on one of the poly coat models, $69 seems about right. I would make sure you like the factory grips first though, as I immediately pulled mine off and replaced them with aftermarket grips as the factory ones were too small for me.
As for the Urban Grey model finish holding up, my urban grey is wearing like I would expect, but is more noticeable than on the black model as the nitride finish under the coating is dark. My black polycoat model, the finish is holding up nicely compared to the UG model, but if it does wear it is much less noticeable as the nitride underneath is also dark in color. From what I can tell the black polycoat is more durable than the urban grey finish.
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Anderson also works
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Been running the U-die with mixed 9mm brass that I don't clean very well, and I use Hornady One-shot. Never have a problem and generally run it at a 1 for clutch setting.
Not sure what the issue is with yours but if the Dillon lube is working for you, it sounds like it is fixed.
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I just poured it on top and lightly pressed it in.
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21 hours ago, d_striker said:
Is the grit comparable to sand paper in size and feel?
Not really sure, I think that the 46/70 grit feels like skateboard tape, but the 36 grit would be more aggressive.
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On 3/30/2017 at 1:50 PM, NWfront said:
Looks great. Is that the JB Weld 2 part epoxy? Do you recall what grit that is?
Just original JB Weld and that is 46/70 grit, if I did it again I would go with 36 grit.
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11 hours ago, NWfront said:
How did this ever turn out? Is it still holding up?
Worked well, a little chipping on the bottom of the grips on my dryfire/practice gun with the red grips from mags hitting it on missed reloads. I didn't rough up the aluminum so if I want to I can scrape it off with a razor knife with some effort to reapply. I just spread the JB Weld on in a thin layer with my finger and added the grit. Works great and since then I have done my 1911 grips and a Sig P320 frame.
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21 hours ago, biglou13 said:
What grit and what,did you use for "glue" ?
JB Weld for glue and that is 46-70 grit, but if I did it again I would go 36 grit. I just lightly coated the grips with my finger so that the holes wouldn't get filled with JB Weld. A bit has chipped off through use in the last year, but not bad and as I did it over the smooth aluminum you can remove it by scraping it off with a utility knife and do it again, but it doesn't come off easy.
On 3/28/2017 at 1:19 PM, rowdyb said:Not a fan of scales at all.
Different strokes for different folks. I have tried the Bogie palm swells, and other thick grips and they just didn't work for me as they were all too thin. Large hands, actually prefer the Tanfo frame, but they weren't available when I bought the Shadows.
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Silicon carbide plus Scales = super aggressive
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Anderson for 5%
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Make sure you degrease the screws and the female insert before applying LocTite. I have been using Racers for both production and single stack for several years and have never had them loosen with blue LocTite. I soak the screws in Acetone for 10 minutes before I assembled them, and then used a Q-tip to put some acetone in the female threads. Try not to get the acetone on the plastic. If they are not degreased properly before hand the LocTite will not hold.
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I haven't seen it with mine, but it makes me wonder if maybe your recoil spring is just a touch too long. If it is a bit long and the spring is binding when the slide is to the rear it would act as a solid stop and the bottom of the bushing is taking the force of the recoil.
Please update after CZC gets back to you.
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Blue is my Accu-Shadow match gun, red is my Shadow practice/dry fire gun.
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I used the book, and the second time I just did it. The crank isn't that bad once you get the carrier cap bolt out. Mine was loctited in with about 600 ozs of the stuff! Thought I was going to break an allen wrench or strip the head so I used my butane torch to heat it up. You don't have to strip the crank to relube it, just put bearing grease in a grease syringe and inject it into the holes or pull the crank out slightly to lube the bearings. I only fully disassembled mine it to see what condition they were in and I like taking things apart.
This video will show you how to disassemble and reassemble everything but the crank.
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First time I stripped the press to clean and lube took about 3 - 4 hours, but I went slow and careful. I just did it again a couple of days ago, and took it even further and removed the entire crank to inspect the needle bearings and relube. This time it only took about 2 hours total to disassemble, inspect, lube and reassemble and reset the swager.
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Decided to shoot Singlestack Nationals this year. Only 1911 I had was my old and beat Kimber in .45 so going to shoot it. Borrowed a buddies STI Trojan for a backup gun.
As I primarily shoot Production and I have my Mark 7 setup for 9mm, I decided I better buy a 9mm to train with. Picked up a new STI Lawman 5.0 in 9mm for a song and I have had it just under 3 weeks. Really, really like it.
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Shot this the other day at a training session at the indoor range. 1 year and 4 months since the video that I posted above. Knocked about .6 of a second off the drill consistently. I did shoot this one from hands at side instead of surrender, but my draw times between the two are the same so it doesn't really matter.
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I have the low primer sensor, and have been looking at the Swage Sense, but I have loaded approximately 30k so far with no issues. If the press is setup well before adding the Mark 7 and you do proper preventative maintenance you can get away without any sensors. That said I don't have the issues with decapping some people seem to, I use a EGW U-die and I am still on the the original decapping pin and before the die was on my 1050 it was on my 550 and I haven't had a primer not drop or any ringers. That is with range pickup brass.
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Kind of what I thought.
Thanks.
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Anybody installed a Dawson ICE magwell on a 1911 that was previously blended to a Smith and Alexander magwell? How much contouring will I have to do to the ICE insert?
Thanks.
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I like the Springer .375.
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Yes just use blue Loctite. I used it on my Ghosts, both on the main screw and on the little white plastic screws.
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Too thin, they going to make them thicker? Preferably thicker than the CZ thick lemon graters, with a taper at the top to thin it out and to be able to reach the mag release.
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One of the guys I shoot with has 2 open guns from Atlas and loves them. I shot them, and really liked them, but I don't have a lot of experience with Open guns. Accurate, flat shooting, and they seem to be running great.
Holster for Shadow 2
in Gear & Accessories
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Do the wait for the RHT, worth it.