Will_M
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Posts posted by Will_M
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This was very helpful. I got it fixed last night, thanks.
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Where the heck are the springs for the feed latch supposed to go? I took a friend's gun apart and the springs popped out before I could get a good look at it.
I thought they went around the post that the bolt release went in to but it doesn't feel right and the springs fit through the hole in the receiver.
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What shells are recommended for match use? Specifics, please. Shot size, velocity, brand, etc.
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What's the estimated max range for this match? Is it recommended to have some 69-75gr stuff for some of the targets that don't react as well to 55gr?
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Make sure the shoulder is properly re-sized. You have to "cam-over" the press arm to make sure the brass gets all the way up into the die.
Are you full length sizing or neck sizing? For semi auto rifles, it is recommended to full length size every time.
Full length sizing. Die is adjusted according to Dillon instructions.
I'm concerned about the consistent scratches on the bullet. Is that normal?
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I'm loading for an AR15. Brass has been trimmed to 1.750". 55gr FMJBT bullet. 2.235" OAL. Stag 3G barrel, Bravo Company Mfg BCG, Palmetto upper receiver.
Loaded rounds keep getting stuck in the chamber and require mortaring the rifle to get the loaded round out. All rounds extracted have a similar helical drag mark on the bullet. It's most visible on the round on the left. All rounds pass the case gauge easily.
Any ideas why my reloads keep getting stuck in the chamber?
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I agree. I have no problem turning the safety OFF but I want to be damn sure I put it back ON.
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He did mind. A welded lifter is not necessary for everyone but it can be tuned to make loading even smoother.
What exactly does C-Rums do and how does it help?
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Is anyone else getting their thumb caught on the lifter? It might be a technique issue but the corner of my thumb where it meets my thumbnail is getting shredded by the fork on the lifter.
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When my local matches start back up I plan to shoot a match with the rifle can and my suppressed 9mm limited gun.In some matches, you can actually shoot with the can in Divisions other than just open.
Quietest 3 gun match ever.
And the fastest since the shot timer mighty not pick up your run.
You say that like it's a bad thing.
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In some matches, you can actually shoot with the can in Divisions other than just open.
When my local matches start back up I plan to shoot a match with the rifle can and my suppressed 9mm limited gun.
Quietest 3 gun match ever.
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We are all gun guys. I ask about the comp on my gun, and get a "no problem" before the match. Never had an issue after that.
Did they measure the brake? Am I pushing my luck by having this brake on there or is it likely a non-issue?I have used an AAC silencer mount at multiple matches without issue.
That's my plan. Email the MD's before I sign up for a particular match and let them know. If it's an issue, I'll swap it out. If not I'll continue to run it until it is.
I like the ability to mount my can when I'm not shooting a match or don't want to be obnoxiously loud.
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I have used an AAC silencer mount at multiple matches without issue.
Did they measure the brake? Am I pushing my luck by having this brake on there or is it likely a non-issue?
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Here's a picture of the brake. The actual ported section is well under an inch. The ratcheting portion is 1.1"
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Is the requirement for the diameter and length of a brake/compensator measuring just the ported section?
I have a SilencerCo Specwar brake on my rifle currently, but the ratcheted section that my suppressor mounts to Might be over 1" in diameter. I'll know for sure when I get home, but I'd like to know how the measurements are taken.
Is it the diameter and length of the brake if it was removed from the gun?
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This'll buff out, right?
Never felt it break, the last two primers were just very "mushy" going in. Last one wouldn't seat at all and then I see these massive ductile failures. There right side didn't fare much better.
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Wow. 52 pages. That's a lot to read, and I admit I haven't made it through them all.
I just ordered an M3000 with a 24" barrel. Was that the right move? Would 26" have been better?
Can someone give me a list of the parts I need to buy to get going?
- Nordic ext. tube, or kit? and which one fits?
- I just want to have a 9 shot capacity magazine, so do I need a +5?
- Nordic low drag follower? Which one?
- Special nut from MOA?
I can probably wait on the os bolt release and the charging handle.
Does Tom or anyone do the mods, and if so, how much?
Thanks,
Greg B.
Dallas
Tom will give you "the works" for $325 or so. It's a steal.
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There is a bit missing on the top/side corner opposite the shell catch and in the taint area.
Where specifically is a shotgun's taint?
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take a look at my modified post, You will def want to round off the inner edges then sand and polish to achieve the smooth finish.Overall you are doing great!!!
Thanks for the compliment. Is there any concern with functionality or reliability when taking the loading port forward? I see you took it basically to the first "E" in STOEGER. That's going to be my indicator.
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take a look at my modified post
Ok thanks.
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I was determined to use files only and not butcher it with a dremel.
I will gladly put my die grinder and dremel work against your file work. You just need to know how to use them..... Your loading port did turn out nice by the way good job. I will post a pic of what Tom is talking about.
I watched your video and was definitely impressed with the way yours turned out. Unfortunately I don't have the hand for this delicate of work using a power tool. Files were a way to slow me down. I wish I had your ability with a die grinder.
And I've continued bringing the left hand side down further. I'm going to drop the serial number down just a hair more and then polish it up and see how it loads.
How does it look so far besides the roughness from the files? I haven't brought the loading port forward at all. How far can I take it? Or should I bother moving it towards the mag tube at all?
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You can take significantly more off the side opposite the serial number without risking any mechanical problems. Almost all the way to where the bottom radius meets the vertical wall on the outside of the receiver. Radius all the edges you just made into the port, and give yourself a small curved ramp into the tube opening. Don't make the ramp too big, or too far into the tube mouth. About 1/8 inch of ramp MAX, and blend into the edges. Looks like a good job so far!
Tom
Are you saying put a small chamfer on the magazine tube and blend it to the receiver? I'm trying to figure out where you're saying I should put the cut?
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Very nice first cut, I see files in the background, is that how you did it? If so, how long did it take? I'm planning on doing this to my Stoeger this weekend, so any last minute words of advice? Also, a buddy of mine did his, and he scalloped the front portion of the plastic trigger guard which I think was a very nice mod.
I was determined to use files only and not butcher it with a dremel. Best advice is to put the shotgun in line with your file strokes. I braced the butt of the gun on my stomach and pushed the files straight out away from me. It made it much easier to keep the cuts level. It took me at least an hour or so of steady filing. The aluminum receiver is actually pretty easy to file. I was just being extra cautious.
Versa Max 3 Gun Edition
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
A friend bought one of the VersaMax competition models with the green receiver. The feed latch is so stiff that the shells will stop dead once the brass on the shell hits the latch. We've relieved the latch some and it helped a tiny bit (maybe not at all) but it's still so much harder to load than any other gun I've tried. I legitimately thought it was broken when we took it out of the box.
Does anyone have any idea how to make loading the VersaMax easier? It's not a technique issue, the gun just stops shells dead.