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freakshow10mm

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Posts posted by freakshow10mm

  1. I have come across a huge amount of WCC 9mm brass. In the past I have just reamed them with a drill but with nearly 10k to work on I was looking for something a little more efficient.

    Will the Dillon tool work well for 9mm. Seems I have read some feedback concerning it not working as well for pistol as it does for 223?

    If anybody has used it or knows it will work well please let me know your thoughts.

    Let me know if you still need these processed. I can run them on my 1050 for you.

  2. Had two primer detonations and broke a swage rod on stupid FC .223 brass.

    I don't run the ratchet crap on the back of the press. F that. Unnecessary.

    I don't run that rubber sleeve on the back of the primer slide either. It tore off once and I never replaced it. Never had a problem (note: primer detonations happened BEFORE the removal of this sleeve).

    The toolhead return spring thingie broke and was replaced.

    That was all in the first 6 months. Past 1.5 years have been worry free with the press.

  3. Grafs is a distributor to OEM manufacturers so they get the drums of 3031, 4895, Clays, Solo, etc. They won't show up on the consumer site, only the dealer site.

    A friend and his father bought a drum of Ramshot TAC together and they shipped directly to their house. They bought directly from Western Powder (Ramshot Powder).

    I know a guy that got his 06 FFL so he could buy the drums of powder cheap. He just has customers bring in their OEM canisters and resells it to them. Buy a keg of IMR 4895, when it's empty bring the canister to him and he'll put 8lbs of IMR 4895 from his drum into it and charge you by the pound. Basically a powder refilling service. He buys the drums for ~$10/lb and sells powder for $20/lb.

    I'm not sure on the policy of the powder makers. I know that Hodgdon are jerks about it.

  4. Yup, I recommend the 2 toolhead approach. Leave the processing head setup for processing and the loading head for loading.

    Processing:

    Size/deprime

    Swage to remove crimp

    Trim to length

    Tumble to remove lubricant.

    Loading:

    Universal deprime to clear flashhole

    Prime

    Powder

    Seat

    Crimp

  5. If you aren't getting leading then what's the problem?

    The way to cure leading is most importantly bullet fit. If you have a properly fit bullet, hardness means nothing. Soft or hard, if the bullet seals the bore, it seals the bore. No leading. Too many companies are purporting hardness and gas checks are the cure all for leading. That couldn't be farther from the truth.

    Elmer Keith routinely shot 1/16 to 1/20 alloy bullets in the .44 Magnum to 1400fps. No gas check, no leading. Why? Properly sized bullets. BHN is around 8 or 9 and he called that hardcast. Wheel weights are about a 9-10 BHN. Did hardness matter? Not one bit. His bullets were sized to fit the bore properly. They were not undersized, soft, then smashed with powder to seal the bore. That's nonsense and will cause leading more often then not. Why? Because the bullets don't fit.

    I can take the same alloy and treat it 3 different ways and get 3 different BHN. I can take 3 different alloys and get the same BHN. What does BHN tell you? Not much. But man, those customers eat that stuff up when you toss around "HARDCAST bullets won't lead", don't they? OMG they even have a GAS CHECK!!! WOW!!

    Running a jacketed or gas checked bullet after is not a good idea at all. Let's say you have leading in your barrel. Now you're going to take a larger bullet with much harder metal, ie copper, down the barrel. When the bullet fights to get down the barrel and it encounters lead in the grooves, it can't get into those grooves (that's how rifling gets on bullets, by the way). This increased resistance builds pressure and causes the barrel to swell more than it was designed. Think of a snake eating a mouse, only on a smaller scale. Yes barrel steel does swell a measurable amount when the bullet passes down the barrel.

    So no, it's not a good idea to run a few gas checked or jacketed bullets as chasers to get rid of any perceived lead fouling. The correct and proper manner is to prevent leading by using properly fit bullets for your specific weapon and using a lube that will hold up in the length of barrel you have.

  6. Many bullet casters get too hung up on bullet hardness as a cure all for leading, but bullet fit is the most important variable. Most commercial cast bullets are too hard for the application. Elmer Keith ran unchecked LSWCs in the .44 Magnum to 1400fps at 9 BHN with no leading. .22LR ammunition doesn't lead and it's nearly pure lead and some cheap wax lube!

  7. Most of my shooting is done with a Brinell Hardness of 12-14. This includes 10mm Auto 175gr at 1300fps with no leading. The bullets you have are too hard for your pressure. You're going to get some leading and you're correct about them not obturating. If you can tolerate it enough to use up the bullets, great. Use them to fine tune your load, then purchase good bullets that are matched to your application for hardness. 15 BHN is the hardest I'd go in the .40 S&W.

  8. The 9mm was designed with an 8 gram bullet which translates to ~124gr. 115gr is about 7.5 grams and 147gr is about 9.5 grams. Half a gram less than original, one and a half grams more than original. The 9mm bullets were developed in grams, not grains and that's why the numbers are funky and not "cool" like some others.

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