freakshow10mm
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Posts posted by freakshow10mm
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Set the OAL based on what fits in the magazines, and what feeds in the gun, then adjust the powder charge to get the velocity you want. I don't know why people always want to mess with OAL to adjust the velocity, but it's absolutely the wrong way to go about it. R,
I agree. Set your OAL first, then work your powder charge to fit.
135 PF is minimum for a cushion and what I load 9mm Minor to perform. Most factory 9mm ammunition is loaded between 135 and 140 PF. 2 PF with a 147gr bullet is a mere 12-14fps. 135 PF 9mm is still very pleasant to shoot.
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For 9mm, buy fired brass, reuse your factory ammo brass, or pick it up off the ground. For minor loads, 8-10 shots per piece is common. If you buy 1,000 from a guy for $20 per K, you're actually buying about 10,000 shots for $20 or 2/10ths of a penny per round. Why even factor the cost of brass at that point? You're better off worrying about primers, powder, and bullets.
For jacketed, Montana Gold in a case price is generally around $74-80 shipped depending on weight and type. $6 difference so big whoopie.
For primers, worst case is $30 per K shipped when you buy 5K with freight and HazMat.
For powder, an 8lb keg will run $150 shipped.
Buy primers and powder at the same time to save on shipping and HazMat. They both will ship for a reasonable cost and split the HM fee.
So the breakdown is this:
Brass: free
Powder: $10/K
Bullets: $74/K
Primers: $30/K
Cost for 115gr MG FMJ reloads is only $114.
Now if you join a local group buy on powder or primers, you will save on HazMat and shipping if your group buys a pallet at a time and has it shipped LTL (less than truckload).
The question you have to ask is are you willing to do the work yourself and buy the equipment needed to load your own ammo or are you going to just buy it from a commercial reloader. If you buy ammo in any quantity it will pay off to load your own.
Buying a Dillon 550 from Mr. Enos means it will take about 4-5 thousand rounds to pay off the equipment in savings versus commercial reloads. Once it's paid off, you're "free".
Think about it. Load 500rds per hour. 5,000 round break even point. That's only 10 hours of loading. If you take one hour every Saturday to reload 500rds, 2.5 months later you will be even.
Then you will begin to enjoy the benefits of reloading and start to stock up on components even more. Then you'll realize you need to start stocking ammo in buckets because you just can't stop reloading.
You can look at it two ways. Reloading exactly what volume you shoot now will save you money if you're willing to buy bulk components and put in the effort of reloading. Another way is that while you may save the cost per rounds to reload, you will find that for the same money spent you can shoot twice as much. That means twice as much range time. That means twice as much experience. That means your shooting skills will improve. This will make you an overall better shooter.
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147gr @ your 934fps is 137.3 PF. If you were aiming for 135 PF you're 2PF off your mark.
If you are targeting a softer load, increasing your OAL (all else equal) will reduce your pressure and thus velocity.
Load up 2-3 dummy rounds at the OAL you want, then test them with hand cycling the gun. If they pass, load up some rounds and try them.
When using a new bullet, I always advise to use the longest OAL that will feed 100% in your weapon. Then develop your data from there.
You haven't stated your intended goal with the load in question, I can only assume you want it softer and closer to a 130PF. If that's the case, then increasing your OAL will reduce pressure and will in turn reduce velocity.
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For me, I only have 6 SP tubes so I load them plus dump 100 primers in the magazine so I have 700 on tap. I load that much, then take a break to get another 700 made up and keep going like that. If I had the money to spend getting a PW drive and bullet feeder, that would be nice to have running while I'm filling tubes. I reload commercially so my time is money, but at this point my sales aren't enough to justify fancy stuff yet. I'll take the time to manually place a bullet, work the press, and fill my tubes.
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The one thing keeping me from buying one is price. Most I'd ever pay for something like that is $50. No way $300.
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I know, right?
Sooo, don't use #5 for .40. Gotcha. That's what I gathered he was implying. I switched to WSF for all my .40 loads.
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AA #5 has been known to Accurate Powder Co. to let go in a .40 with an otherwise safe load. They can't figure it out, but it happens. The tech told me #5 is responsible for more KBs in the .40 than any other powder for no apparent reason.
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Posted in another thread, but the buy in for custom stamp brass is 100,000 pieces plus $750 for the custom tooling charge. Minimum buy in comes a tad over $10,000. I started looking into it, but can't afford at this point as my business isn't that big yet. I can see why AAA hasn't loaded any for some time. I don't blame them one bit.
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Yup and the FBI still has several in their arsenal.
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I've got a H&K P7 and it leaves black marks on the brass but never actual mutilation like that.
"Normal" is there is black stripes on it.
No load should ever cause the brass to bite into the chamber flutes like that. Yikes. I would take a pliers and crimp the mouth shut so no one can reload it. Put that brass in the scrap bucket for the recycler.
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For me, Winchester gives me fits. Usually hangs up in Station 1 being placed into the shellplate slot. S&B is OK, but the rims look funny to me. I load 9mm on a 1050 so I can hit the pockets no problem.
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Got off the phone with Starline. Minimum order for custom headstamp brass would be 100,000 pieces with a $750 tooling charge for the head stamp (but then it's yours and no one else can use it). So if someone wants a 9mm Major headstamp, minimum will run you over $10,000 paid in full in advance. Good luck!
Top Brass (Scharch) doesn't do custom stamps.
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Yes, looks like the die will be a good purchase. I'll save up and buy one to replace my standard Redding Pro seater. Thanks everyone!
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I have often thought of getting one of these dies. I think they would be great if you tinker alot with oal's. But I can't see the sense in them if you are going to load thousands upon thousands of the exact same load. My Dillon seater die stays constant all year as well. But when I move it I will admit it is a PITA to get right again.
Well, I load a 147gr in the 9mm and only that weight. But I load a Xtreme plated RN, a Gold Dot JHP, a Zero JHP, a Zero FMJ, and possibly will add a Montana Gold CMJ to that lineup.
The Comp die seems like making those adjustment would be quicker and easier versus the standard die. I like reference points when I make settings. I'm aiming to get one of those UniqueTek micrometer powder bar deals too.
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Excellent information gentlemen. Thank you. Looks like it will be a good investment.
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I have a S1050 set up for 9mm and currently load using Redding Pro Series dies (exclusively for all my loading). Thinking a lot about replacing the standard seater die in that set with the Competition seater die. I'm a commercial reloader, so cost isn't an issue here.
I would like to hear experiences with this die regarding OAL control, runout control, and repeatability of setting for new seating depth (for different bullet weights/profiles) if you would, please.
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Getting the press tuned into how you load and what you load can be a daunting task. There is quite a long learning curve with it, IME. I have learned the 1050 excels when dedicated to one caliber or those that pair well. Like changing from 9mm Luger to .38 Super is no biggie, swap out the toolhead.
It took me several months and many frustrations to get my 1050 dialed in. I've had it set up all summer for 9mm since the last time it came back from Dillon repair. Just about flawless.
There is the rubber plunger thing in the primer slide that has been removed. With it, the press choked. Without it, I have maybe one stoppage every 2-3 thousand rounds. When the press won't index, I stop, take off the white tab in the primer station, take the case out, clear the jam, then reassemble and keep going. Down time of maybe 5 minutes. That I can live with.
I removed the ratchet return tab thing. Useless feature. Just get rid of it. Just complicates things.
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I was thinking of adding their bullet to my commercial match ammo but I think I'll try Montana Gold since they seem to have better availability even though the price is higher.
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On "standby" deep breath and exhale slowly. When I hear the buzzer, quickly inhale and go to work.
Oxygen needed to work muscles is taken in during inhale when the action starts. During COF, breathing is normal pace but deeper.
At least that's what works for me.
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My bench height is 36 inches. I stand when loading. 1050 is flush to the bench (obviously) and the 550 is on a strong mount. When I load, I have a boxer's stance, so left foot forward and right foot behind. Left hand sets bullets and right hand works the handle. Tried doing it seated plenty of times and just not for me.
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S1050 for 9mm
550 for .45 ACP
RC for odd jobs (bullet pulling, bullet swaging)
MEC 600JR for 20ga
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For some reason Winchester (9mm is what I load on the 1050) brass likes to hang up like that. I have to watch station 2 as it's being fed to make sure the case is right and proper. No biggie as it only happens once in a while. If I crush one, I just toss in the scrap bucket and go on with life.
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I started my commercial reloading career on a 550. Between commercial ammo and my own ammo, it's got over 500K loaded in just that time (had it about 5 years now). I got it used as an upgraded 450 to 550 press and the guy I bought it from used it to load for local cops commercially. He had over a million rounds loaded on it. This press has been rebuilt a few times, but has been going strong since the 80's when he originally got it. Right now I use it as a dedicated .45 ACP press until I can afford to buy another 1050 for just .45.
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Well, my slide is a Fusion, but thanks for the info.
I'll try buying a 9mm commander barrel and see if that will work first.
VV. N340 or N 320
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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Burn rate-wise, AA #2 and WST are right next to N320.