RaymondMillbrae

Ignatz, "Yes"...you must clean off the sizing die wax. The brass must be clean of any lube in order to get a good tight seal when it expands in the chamber after being fired. You want to limit the movement of the shell when fired for the best consistancy/accuracy. Also be careful how long you tumble the finished rounds to remove the lube. If you tumble too long, you run the chance of breaking down the powder, hence changing it's properties. And lastly, here's how I apply the Imperial Sizing Die Wax: (Which by the way, I absolutely love)! 1) Tumble and clean all your brass, then place the brass in one pile. (On a towell, in a bucket, in a large tupperware container, etc...). 2) Have a second location to place them after you lube them. 3) Get a thumb nail-sized dab of the Imperial Sizing Die wax, and place it in the palm of your hand. Then rub your hands together to cover both palms. 4) Now grab a nice handful of brass with each hand, squish them a second, and drop them into the 2nd container. Continue to do this until all your brass is lubed. (When you feel the wax getting thin, add another dab to your palms, rub your palms together, and continue). 5) When done, place both your hands in the 2nd container (which should be full of your newly-coated brass) and squish all your brass around between your fingers. (Like a baker kneeding dough). This is the super fastest way I have learned to coat massive amounts of brass at one time. I did it differently in the past, but I can now coat around 1000 rounds of brass in about 10 minutes or less. And yes, they are nicely coated. But one word of warning...do not place too large of a dab on your palms. Only place enough to coat your palms, otherwise when you grab your first first handful of brass, some of the lube will be scraped-off by the opening of the brass shells and glob inside the shell. (Use the sizing wax sparingly. A little goes a long way). I started-off using Dillon's Case Lube at first. Then I moved on to Hornady's "One Shot" (Aerosol can). I liked the "One Shot" a lot...but decided to try the Imperial Sizing Die Wax upon a few folks recommendation. Wow...Imperial Sizing Die wax was dee bomb! I am still on my first can, and have loaded THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS of rounds. In Christ: Raymond

COMATOSE here you go. RECOIL SPRING COMPRESSION RATES I went by this website, and I also got some info from 2 other places. (Which I cannot remember, or find, at the moment). Sorry. In Christ: Raymond

Trubl, did you ever finish your mods, and post them? If you did, post a link. In Christ: Raymond

Hey folks, I am getting my POF upper any day now, and was curious about something. Does anyone have any feedback on the stock muzzle break that comes with their rifles? If folks own POF rifles, have yall kept the muzzle break on the rifle, or swapped it out for something else? (Something more effective). Just curious about the design of their breaks, as well as their effectiveness. Thanks. In Christ: Raymond

Bear1142, if I may be so nosey, can you expound a little more on what those "minor tweeks" were. Can you give me some insight into how some folks "tune" their rifles to themselves. Personally, I have installed the Phase-5 EBRv2 Device, and also installed a Geissele trigger. I am also installing an LMT SOPMOD stock, and I am now considering a lighter JP buffer. (But I may wait on the buffer for the moment, and familiarize myself with the weapon first). I will also check out the break that will come with the POF upper, and see if it gives me the "flip control" that I need. (No...that doesn't mean to keep the Filipino's away). Ha ha ha! Thanks, folks. In Christ: Raymond

Great! If this thread helps someone, I have achieved my goal - giving back to the shooting community. In Christ: Raymond

Cool idea, LovesToShoot! I love to see ingenuity at work. Mine was just ONE WAY to skin the cat. If I may...the end of your rod (opposite the brown handle) will need some washers or something to ensure the spring is totally perpendicular to the rod, as this will provide a constant "zero/starting" point. Then the compression points for different recoil springs (Gov't, Commander, Officer) will need to be marked on the rod itself. Once again, great tip. In Christ: Raymond

Why is it supposed to have less recoil? Can you be a bit more specific? (Otherwise it is just repeating what you heard someone else say). Don't mean to be rude or anything...I just want this to be an educational thread with specifics. In Christ: Raymond

Hey folks, another question for yall. I remember reading a few opinions on the differences between the POF gas piston uppers vs the Addax gas piston uppers. Some of the points mentioned were that the POF Predator rails were "too high". And I also remember something about the way the free-float handguard was installed on the POF, verses the way it was installed onto the Addax. (Or something like that). Bottom line, some folks love their POF's, and some folks love their Addax GPU's. I would like to hear the differences again, and would like to have some specifics. I am a POF owner, but am considering an Addax GPU as a second weapon...and I would like to know "why". No bashing, please. Just keep it down to FACTS and intelligent obsservations. Thanks!! In Christ: Raymond

Something I have been thinking about for a while now is "battering of the frame". If I have too light of a recoil spring, wouldn't the slide be battering my weapon? They say in Glocks it is a non-issue...but what about a 1911? I have also adjusted my spring by the distance it ejects the brass. The last time I shot, I had a 13-pound spring on my NightHawk Predator. I was shooting 200 grain .45 ACP at approximately 910 FPS. (The brass can be collected, floating next to the disables Russian satelite, over China about now). So I went to a 16-pounder (I couldn't find a 14-pounder). And it seems to put the brass a nice 3" to 4" feet away from me. (Yes...I measured it). But I could also "feel" the resistance as the slide went back. I wanted to try a 14-pounder next, but was afraid of battering my frame and slide. Your thoughts would be welcome. In Christ: Raymond

Your link didn't work. I would like to read the thread. In Christ: Raymond

Shooterbenedetto, I'm not sure what a CZ spring looks like...but I would have the spring on hand when you go looking for the correct-sized bolt. Just find the bolt that the spring fits into nicely, with MINIMAL amount of play...and that's the size you need. You can also mark off different compression distances (Commander, Government, Officers, etc), and drill various holes for them on your pipe nipple. Or if you have the means, use a milling machine to cut a nice loooooooong oval window in the correct area. Then place lines for the corresponding recoil spring sizes on the sides of the window. (Wa-La...you can now check recoil springs from various weapons)! In Christ: Raymond

Thanks, guys. Since I started this thread,I have done some digging and meditating on this "inertia driven system". Here is my corclusion...my buddy is full of doo-doo, and may nottotally understand his system. (Maybe the function of how this system works was a bit hazy to him). Do you wanna see the Benelli inertia system in action? CLICK HERE. The vidoe clips shows EXACTLY how this inertia driven system works. (Weapon is jarred rearward [no shock absorption], the action goes rearward and the spring compresses, the spring then decompresses, sending the action forward, picking-up the next round, and going into battery). Nothing here speaks about recoil management! The system is flawless. The chamber stays clean. It is reliable. (Kinda like an AR-15 gas piston system, but inertia driven). OK, that's done. But now I need to follow-up a bit more on this FN SLP shotty. Thanks again!!!!! In Christ: Raymond

Anything else that is so great about this "inertia driven system," besides it being easier to clean up? I found this article on the Benelli website. (CLICK HERE FOR THE ARTICLE). In Christ: Raymond

OK, Folks, I have another question for you. I am looking at setting-up a shotgun for 3-gunning. (Not now...but in the near future). And while speaking to my shooting pardner, I found out that he is a die-hard Benelli Spaghetti M2 lover. (I dare not speak anything negative about his beloved Benelli, for the fear of immediate death). I tolld him that I have read countless articles about the Benelli kicking much harder than a Remmy 1100...and he went off on me/yall. He said folks are stupid as heck, and have no idea what they are talking about. The Benelli has this "space-age, high-tech" inertia system that is supposed to be the best thing out on the market at the moment. No one makes a better inetia-driven system, and it functions incredibly to reduce recoil. He even mentioned something about the bolt possibly slanting/tilting downward in it's backwards teravel, that helps to keep the weapon aligned after shooting, so that follow-up shots are quicker. (Or something like that). I'm kinda like the doode who wrote a comment on another thread. He said that he was soooooo turned-off by someone's bashing of other weapons, that he got totally turned-off on Benelli's bcz of that, and went with a Remy instead. So now I am currently looking at a Remmy 1100 to get started, and possibly a FN Herstal 22" SLP. (I've heard great things about the FN SLP's). I'm kinda turned-off at the moment by all his "Benelli's are god's" attitude, and am looking for something else to show up at a match with - just to be different. Anyhoo...back to the point. 1) Do Benellis kick harder than Remmy 1100's...and why? 2) What's up ith all this Benelli inertia system that is so great? 3) Are ther any "cons" to an FN 22" SLP? Thanks guys. You input is appreciated, and gives me things to consider before purchasing a product. In Christ: Raymond PS: Check out my thread on how to make a HOME MADE RECOIL SPRING TESTER.

Thanks. I had read the first link you posted a while back. And I had also read the last link you posted. But you know the ole saying, "A picture is worth a thousand words". So I figured I would do a step-by-step instructional that was simple to follow, with a monitary breakdown of the parts as well. Hope this helps someone out. In Christ: Raymond

We are done. Now just hook-up the ring to the fish weighing scale…and “Let’s get ready to ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuumble”. This picture shows you how I prefer to hold the recoil spring tester. I find it more comfortable to pin the scale on the ground with my left hand, and then grasp the pipe nipple and pull it with my right hand. Now you can see why it is so important to make sure the washers are flush with the bottom of the pipe nipple - as this is the “0" mark where we begin to measure from. The window is at the 1.625” mark, where we need to compress the spring to. When the top of the spring/bolt head hits the mark on the “window,” the recoil spring is compressed to the specified 1.625” point, and the poundage on the scale is read. Here is a close-up of the window. Look closely, and you will see the bolt head and spring, lined-up with the line on the "window". And here is a closer look at the scale, itself. Notice that this paticular spring is an 18-pounder. It’s that easy, folks. And for your information, if you have a 1911 commander model, the compression point where you take the reading from is 1.125”. And if you have a 1911 officer’s model, the compression point where you take the reading from is .700”. Since I only have a Government model, I only marked the 1.625" point. And one more point before I conclude: There are various types of fish weighing scales. Some will weigh items from 1 pound all the way to 50 pounds - which is too much. (The larger the scale variance, the less accurate the scale will be). So just purchase a scale that will cover the the recoil spring poundage that you use. In my case, it was 1 to 25 pounds. Hope this helps someone out. Thanks again for being a help to me. I was glad to oblige. In Christ: Raymond

Now lets get down to the nitty-gritty and show you how this “corn-fangled contrapshun” works. The next 3 pictures show you how to set the recoil spring into the recoil spring tester. First you need to place the spring onto the hex bolt. Be VERY SURE to place the tightly-coiled portion of the recoil spring towards the top of the hex bolt. If you don’t, the other end (the piggy tail) will slip around the bolt head when you are compressing it, and wedge itself between the bolt head and the inner walls of the pipe nipple. Once the spring is placed onto the hex bolt, insert both of them into the pipe nipple in the same way I am showing in the pictures. Once the parts are in the pipe nipple, you need to place a heavy duty ring into the small hole we drilled onto the threaded portion of the hex bolt. Also take note of the line I engraved into the sides of the “window”. This is the center line of the window, which is EXACTLY 1.625" inches. When the bolt head and spring hit this line, we need to stop and take our reading. (Follow along and all will be made clear, Grasshopper). cont'

Cont' Once the 1.625” spot is marked, the drilling begins. Below is a picture of me drilling a tiny pilot hole (to ensure I am in the EXACT SPOT I am supposed to be in), before going to a larger drill bit. There is no specific size hole that you need to drill. Just drill it large enough for you to see the bolt head and spring when it appears there. While I was drilling "the window," I took advantage and also drilled a very small hole on the threaded end of the hex bolt. (My madness for this will be revealed shortly). By the way, all the drilling was done with a plain ole' Milwaukee cordless drill. Once these holes are drilled, place the cap, with the washers inside, onto the pipe nipple. Tighten the heck out of the cap! Like I mentioned before, I “initially” only had 2 washers in the cap. But when it was super tightened, the washers rattled around inside the cap – revealing to me that they were NOT FLUSH with the bottom of the pipe nipple. So 2 more washers were added to ensure they were tight (and flush) with the end of the pipe nipple. Now that the cap is on tight, with the washers flush with the bottom of the pipe nipple, drill a hole in the center of the cap. This hole needs to be large enough to ensure the hex bolt will pass smoothly through the washers and cap. OK…now we are done. This picture below shows the finished parts. Cont'

Cont' After the bolt head (and threads) are ground down, the next step is to get a few washers and stack them onto the end of the pipe nipple. (In this picture I only show 2 washers, but in the end I had to use 4 of them. More later). After the washers are stacked on the end of the pipe nipple, get the cap and screw it on very tightly to seat the washers onto the end of the pipe nipple. This is a very important step, as the washers must be flush with the bottom of the pipe nipple. After you have done this step, remove the cap, and you should have the washers imbedded into the cap. Now we are going to take a very important measurement. This measurement will be taken from the end of the pipe nipple where the cap was removed from. (See…now you will know why it is so important to ensure that the washers in the cap were flush with the end of the pipe nipple). For a 1911 pistol (Government model), the spring must be compressed to a size of 1.625” inches when taking the measurement for the spring poundage. (As per a note I found on the Brownell’s website, and also another pretty good source). And from my understanding, “Wolf Springs” also supports this. Below is a picture of me measuring the 1.625” compression distance. This is measured from the bottom of the pipe nipple. Then I used a counter sink to mark the spot at EXACTLY 1.625”. (You can see the countersunk spot in the picture). This point will have a small hole drilled into it, so that I can see when the spring is compressed down to this size. More later.

OK, folks, Yall have helped me out in the past, so now I guess it’s time for me to give back. (Maybe this will stay a "Sticky"). I was sitting around and looking in my tool box, and I noticed that I had a few recoil springs floating around. Upon checking the notes I had marked them with, I realized that I had not specified the weapons that they came from. (My 10mm, or my .45 ACP). Shoot!! So that got me thinking. Hmmm…how do you test for recoil spring poundage? I started looking online, and realized that those recoil spring testers are either super expensive ($80.00 smacker-roo’s), or almost impossible to find. So I put ON my thinking cap, looked at a few pictures of professionally-made ones, and said to myself, "Shoot...I can make one myself"! So here in front of yall, for the whole world to see, is my creation. Here is a rundown of the parts, and what they cost me: 3/8” x 10” galvanized pipe nipple - $4.53 3/8” cap - $1.47 5/16” x 8” hex cap screw - .37 cents 25 pound fish scale - $9.99 * a few washers that I had laying around This recoil spring tester only cost me $18.00…and the value of having it is immeasurable! I got the metal parts at Lowes, and the fish scale at a sporting goods store. (You can go even more "ghetto" and use PVC pipe nipples and caps, and a less expensive fish scale). But I was not comfortable with PVC parts, and I thought a cheaper scale would not be too accurate. Anyhoo...here is a step-by-step guide – with pictures - to making your own recoil spring tester. Consider making this a “sticky post”. Below are the parts I used to make the recoil spring tester. (See inventory list above for details). Make sure to purchase a bolt that is NOT completely threaded. Below are a few pictures of the new bolt and the pipe nipple. The bolt head will need to be ground-down to fit inside the pipe nipple. Here are a few pictures to show you a before and after of the bolt head and threads. (I didn’t like feeling the threads at the end of the hex screw…so they had to go). cont'

POF just contacted me, and said my upper will finally be delivered at the end of Septeber, or the beginning of October. I am not a photographer, so don't blame me for the shoddy/blurry pictures. I just wanted to post a few pix to share this new product with yall. Can't wait till my upper arrives!! In Christ: Raymond

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I also received my new EBRv2 earlier today. It looks like it will do the job RELIABLY now. Click HERE to check out my new thread on the lighter EBRv2. In Christ: Raymond

OK, Folks, for those of yall that like to shoot fast, reload fast, and clear stoppages even faster...here's the gizmo of the week. Phase 5 Tactical has come out with their new, and improved, EBRV2 DEVICE. If you have followed my earlier link (I cannot find it at the moment), you will know that I purchased their device a while back. When I first received it, the first thing I noticed was the WEIGHT. It was solid and heavy. So naturally, the first thing that came to mind was it's reliability. I "assumed" that the extra weight would not work well, and so I was on the prowl for a heavy-duty spring to use with it. Nope...no heavy duty springs to be found. So my next step was to drill a couple of holes in the device to try and remove some metal/weight. Nope...that didn't work either. (You can see my results/pictures in my other thread, if you should ever find it). So I contacted Phase 5 Tactical, and I see that they have now come out with a new EBRv2 Device that they claim is 30% lighter. Shoot...the answer to my quest. To make a long story short, the new device is now in my hand, and it is lighter. As soon as I removed it from the package, I noticed the difference. Another thing I noticed was that the welds were a lot cleaner. (Cool). Anyhoo...below are attached a few pictures for you to see. The first picture will be my original, DRILLED, EBRv2 Device. Then the new one will follow. Just wanted to throw a plug in for Phase 5 Tactical for listening to their customers, and staying on the cutting edge. I know that MagPul had the B.A.D. Device, but a 1-piece device is much more stable...and attractive. Enjoy the pix, and notice the clean welds. In Christ: Raymond Cont'