Rob Tompkins
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Posts posted by Rob Tompkins
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... wraparound glasses and hi-dB-rated plugs & muffs will reduce that effect ...
I've been shooting Open for a very short time but when I started using custom formed ear plugs & muffs I felt more relaxed and less likely to flinch due to noisel. I still get excited and slalt the trigger sometimes, but that is another issue!
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... I just ordered the LNL bullet feeder ....
Where and what cost? I'm considering getting one.
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Lets not forget a storage facility for props and such.
+1
And equipment to move the props (carts, dollies, etc.). -
... Anything luxury you wish you had at your range? Besides a shoothouse, I mean.
Lots of safe areas for easy gear up - gear down,
Shade + benches,
Restrooms,
Berms rated for rifles for multi-gun (a 100 yrd bay would be nice for this)
Lots and lots of props (an old car or two, lots of barricades, moving targets of all kinds, etc)
lots of gravel on ground (its not fun to shoot in mud)
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Nature abhors a vacuum… in my gun safe!
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I bought a USED mid grade gun to see if I liked it BEFORE I drooped a bucket-o-cash on a new build. My rationale was that if i didn't like it or really did and wanted to move to a custom build I could sell for close to what I invested. I wasn't ready to drop ~$3k +.
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Yes. I just stated shooting Open and have really enjoyed it. However, I also shoot IDPA a lot so I switch back and forth. I'm still learning the Open gun. BTW I'm a C class in Limited and haven't classified in Open yet. In IDPA I'm only a three gun Sharpshooter. So, I'm not sure I'm an example of a good shooter going back and forth.
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On page 30 of the rule book:
"ALL VERSIONS OF THE IWB STYLE
HOLSTER ARE APPROVED FOR IDPA COMPETITION."
Go have fun!
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The traditional dig against Rugers (that I've heard of) is the design of cylinder release. S&W push forward and Ruger are in. Some think the S&W is more intuitive. Also, the issues of parts and skilled smiths plus the factory service issue of "undoing" customizations.
And you pull back on Colts, and Dan Wesson's have the release on the crane. Not all guns are made with the same cookie cutters. Practice is the key.
Agree, you can train for and succeed with any hardware. Also, natural talent and dexterity help.
BUT, if one design is more natural or easier to learn, it will succeed. Logistical advantages like availability of parts and better access to experienced 'smiths help as well.
For many shooters the S&W is a well supported and durable design that many find easy to learn and use. Ruger's (as well as Colt's, and Wesson's) are good quality but there are reasons why they are not nearly as popular for competition.
If I were to buy a new revo for competition, I'd go with S&W. A bit more expensive than a Ruger, but for me a little better trigger out of the box and easier design to learn, many more options for tunning IMHO, plus very good support for competition from the factory and accessory industry.
Can you do well with a Ruger, sure you can. If that's what you want to use, go for it. Just note you are going counter culture.
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Thanks
So instead of calipers and a case gage, could I just use my Commander barrel for spot checks?
If not, are calipers used for OL checks?
Yes, but... a case gage is precession machined to the min chamber spec. If your ammo pases a gage it will work in any gun. If you use your barrel you only know it will work in that gun... maybe. Small variances that could cause problems may not be noticeable in the barrel but stand out with a gage.
For OAL, a gage is a pass/fail. Calibers give you exact measures allowing you to fine tune your ammo. Don't forget loading data often specifics a OAL for a given bullet. You need calipers.
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The traditional dig against Rugers (that I've heard of) is the design of cylinder release. S&W push forward and Ruger are in. Some think the S&W is more intuitive. Also, the issues of parts and skilled smiths plus the factory service issue of "undoing" customizations.
When I shoot SSR (not very often), I use a older Taurus 669, it's a near clone of the K--frame. But I have two of them and ALWAYS take both.
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Lube is not necessary but it all goes smoother!
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Extra primer filler tubes. Not necessary but VERY handy.
Also, I strongly recommend a case gage. Its much easier to use then disassembling your pistol to chamber check. It helps in getting everything initially set up as well as doing random QC checks on the finished product. Again not necessary but VERY handy. I went many years without using one then I got one. Now I won't reload without one, it adds so much peace of mind that the rounds are good to go.
Good luck!
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Note that non-military based target rifles almost never have a flash hider. Yes, some very high power rifles like the 338 Lapula have breaks and some Savage rifles have them but it seems to be a gimmick. However, if it helped, they would all have them!
For best accuracy a really good 11 deg crown seems to be the standard.
If done properly I can see they would have no to very minimal impact on accuracy, but not a help.
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I am more curious about the latent prints that could be found on a gun submerged in water for a few days. I thought water or humidity was the enemy to fingerprints (unless of course it is in something like a greasey or oiley or bloody fingerprint).
Don't you watch CSI? It's all true, its on TV!
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I get the same kind of variance with my LNL using Lee dies including the FCD with Zero 125gr JHP. Using a light coat of lube on the once fired mixed brass reduced it some. If I run one at a time all the way through I get +/- 0.001 variance, or less.
IMHO, I think when all the stations are loaded and you use mixed brass you get enough variation in the forces applied to the seating station too cause the variation. I've not tried using new brass from the same lot, it would be an interesting experiment.
If you're not using it, try some spray lube (I use Hornady One Shot case lube) and see if it settles down any.
Good luck.
Rob
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I'd just allow them to place a magazine on the table next to the gun.
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Mag on the table is allowed.
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What if it was an IDPA stage and you were shooting SSP division?
Would reload with retention be more efficient than going to slidelock?
As written it is not a legal IDPA stage. BUT, if you shot it using IDPA cover and reload rules, I think the best option is place two mag's on the table and one at your second postion (left side if you are right handed). At the beep, load the first mag and shoot the first 4 tgt's. RWR BEFORE you leave for the second postion or RWR while moving backwards (less likely to break the 180). Shoot the next 4 tgts, pick up your 3rd mag and RWR on the way to the last postion. But this only works if you can do a good RWR on the move AND the designer specifies that movent from P1 to P2 then P3 is "behind cover". I say put the 3rd mag on the left side so that as you move left to right doing a reload you are able to bring the gun in front of you while on the move without breaking the 180.
A less risky (but possibly slower) way it is to "make up" a shot on the first array, then do a slide lock reload between the 5th and 6th tgts then again between the 10th and 11th tgts. If movement between in P1, P2, and P3 is ruled as NOT behind cover this is could be your best option. Though you could still RWR flat footed at P2 and P3 but it all depends on how you feel about you RWR's. Even flat footed I think the RWR before engaging the array would be faster, but a botched RWR will KILL your time.
Personally, nothing ventured is nothing gained. I'd do tthe RWR, even if I had to do it flat footed at P2 and P3. I think a smooth continious engagement of each array will save you more time then the littile bit extra you might take for the RWR, even if you had to do it flat footed.
That's how I see it.
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5 gr Unique under a 230gr FMJ. PF ~145. I had a hi-cap 45 I was going to use for IDPA ESP but sold the gun and now have a bunch of loaded ammo.
I might have to take the 1911 and shoot ESP.
What could go wrong?
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ck1- my 9mm Trojan has been absolutely flawless. I use Tripp mags. I can't say enough good things about either the gun or the magazines.
... and you use it well.
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At any time of the day, if I squeeze my eye shut after a few seconds I see a wild kaleidoscope of colors and random shapes. Same thing happens if I rub my eyes firmly for a few seconds.
Close?
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stagesthat have always given me fits are the multiple aspect stages where you see targets you already engaged from another port, yeah, and as you follow the RO you realize they have 4 andsomtimes 6 holes in em....hate those stages...
... and some with 0 hits!
Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.
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i was refering to the overall look of the pistol when a magwell of anykind is properly installed and blended.
Agree!
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I have and like the S&A. It does the job, and looks like it belongs there, not added on. For some reason the slapped on look of many of the others bothers me on a nice 1911, call me old fasioned if you will, but i think JMB would have approved of the S&A, the others I'm not so sure of....
I put a Smith & Alexander mag well on, and it looked pretty ugly. My 1911 came with a bevel to the opening for the mag, there was a very big gap. So I grabbed my rotary tool w/ a conical grinding stone and did a blending job. Once blended, I used a sanding disc to smooth it followed by a polishing wheel. It looks AWSOME if I say so myself. It looks like it was cast with the frame unless you look really hard and really close, then you can see a very fine joint line. Then I replaced the beveled grip panels with flat based panels for a true integrated look.
BTW, it functions GREAT! The blending job smoothes the entry and it works with every base pad I've ever tried. The opening is plenty big enough for me but it is not as big as others mentioned here.
And equipment to move the props (carts, dollies, etc.).
Reasons for extensive gun "collections"
in Humor
Posted
+1, I was just thinking that!
Peeking in my safe could case a reporter spasms of epic quality!