OUshooter
-
Posts
353 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by OUshooter
-
-
I think the OP's question has been sufficiently answered. As to WTG, if you don't feed the trolls they will wither and die.
-
It's hard to resist. As handloaders we know how much coin each round represents. But I've picked up lots of range brass with pierced primers and other anomalies. That makes me 1) never pick up range ammo and 2) be fairly careful about what range brass I choose to bring home.
-
My most local match is 7 including the classifier, and the rest run 5-6. Today we had ~165rds, which is pretty typical. We avg probably close to 65 a match and had 79 today, so 7 stages spreads it out nicely.
-
I'm having a similar issue. It's a DPMS LR-308 AP4. Adj gas block, jp comp, rest is stock as DPMS ships it. If I just pull on the handle it's pretty stout, but every shot it thumps me on the nose. It's done this even before I changed out the factory parts as indicated above. It's my 1st AR of any caliber, and thought maybe that's just how the .308 is.
I have the gas set to 1/8th of a turn open from where the bolt will just lock back. There is some wear one the underside, but no signs in the gas key channel. If I drop in a new handle and have the same issue, then what would be next?
Thanks,
-
So I'm chasing the same issue with my LR-308. The weird part is that I've run 2k rounds through this thing with a mixed bag of handloads and factory, with no issues. Then one day it just took a dirt nap. I've tried different ammo, the o-ring trick, and adjusting the gas block. I finally got the cases to come out of the chamber but they just sit on top of the empty mag with the bolt locked back. I haven't yet found a set of go/no-go gauges. But it's been running great for over a year till this week.
Could I just have a wore out extractor?
Thanks,
-
I shoot mostly NATO headstamps through my DPMS, and using a Small Base Sizing Die I've yet to have any issues. I set the die to bump the shoulder back just enough to split the high and low steps on the case gage.
-
I have nearly your same setup. I started running 170gr LSWC to shave cost. My OAL sweet spot was 1.135". If it was off too much from that it wouldn't run well, very much like are describing. It seemed almost random but the longer OAL cured it for me.
-
I will echo whistlerpig: get thee a chrono.
Second: get thee a case gage.
Folks on forums like to offer the "if it chambers its fine mantra", but I've done the research and a solid chamber gage is absolutely as invaluable as a set of check weights for the powder scale.
My guess is, though I've not loaded for this caliber, that it's related to the shoulder being pushed to far back.
I offer this as only opinion and your mileage my vary.
-
For general plinking and target rounds I've had good results with these:
http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=7239&dir=278|281|1081|1161
I'm putting 45gr of Varget behind them in NATO headstamp cases, and it's not uncommmon to get some cloverleaf action at 100yrds.
Rifle: DPMS LR308, stock trigger, 16"barrel
H335 is one of those BL-C2 types that some manuals recommend magnum powders and some don't. It's funny of the half dozen rifle powders I tried I never tangled with H335.
-
1. The XL650 has less leverage than the LNL, but a bit shorter throw.
Hornady told me the 650 has better priming leverage then the LnL. I don't think they would lie about that.
Having owned the LnL for 5 months. I can't find much about it I like better then both my Dillons. Powder Measure included. It's a rust bucket. PITA.
I didn't say priming leverage, I said leverage and that refers to up force against the die when you pull the handle down.
How much priming leverage does the xl650 have, enought to rip the rim off the brass and push it out of the shell plate when you hit a GECO piece of 9 mm brass. On a WCC it will shove it right into that crimped primer pocket and you got yourself a flat primer before shooting it. If brute force isn't working you are just not using enough.
650 primes easily compared to the LnL.
Even you have admitted that you use a snapping motion to seat primers. 650 doesn't require any of those tricks. It just works.
The rest isn't terribly important Sizing cases on both machines is not that big of a deal. At least in my experiance.
Um yeah....ok
I just use a nice smooth stroke and my LnL seats just fine. I will admit that I haven't used a 650 but if your having to "jerk" the handle or use some "trick" to seat primers, then I can only surmise there is either an equipment or adjustment issue.
-
I went through this ~year ago. I ended up with a shiny new Big Red Machine. You will get some folks willing to step forward here, but the bottom line is a lot of folks with no knowledge of one will reject the press because it's not blue.
I bought a LnL + case feeder and as long as I did my part it did it's part. I've had issues that Hornady was all over like a pack of dogs on a 3 legged cat. If Dillion is better than that then God bless em, but I will never know.
I don't have a dillon, and probably never will. They are good machines, but the Hornady has been awesome so there really is no need to change.
It really comes down to what you can afford. These 2 machines are really close, but seeing other 650's in action I have to give the nod to the LnL.
-
I've used some 3000 grit sandpaper, local automotive refinishing shop, and lollipop sticks (which came from Hobby Lobby).
Cut a strip of sandpaper ~5/16" wide and 1" long put a piece of tape on it and wrap it around the stick and load that into your cordless drill. It works great.
-
My G35 stock barrel and Precision Delta's were doing fine. Then without a good cleaning between the moly's and some jacketed I put a donut about halfway down the pipe. I think stock and moly combo moly is fine.
I replaced with a KKM barrel and it is a marked improvement in accuracy over the stock, plus the brass doesn't come out with a bulge.
-
I'm not in Open yet, but I'd probably be all about the gadgets. Isn't that what Open is all about? Doodads and huge ammo capacity? Oh yeah and going fast....really fast.
-
A couple things I will have never understand when this subject comes up.
1) You just barely make major PF with WST in 40cal, within professionally published data.
2) You have to keep track of seasonal loads.
3) You are better off reading tea leaves than reading primers.
4) There are other good powders that don't have WST's drawbacks.
By the very fact we reload we are probably all about tinkering, but somethings I'm not willing to tinker with. Lots of folks I shoot with run WST and make "major", so you will probably be fine.
-
Instead of lead, I would suggest coated bullets such as Black bullets International which are marginally more costly than lead but substantially cleaner. I'm done with lead.
+1 to this. I have a G35 and a KKM barrel. I'm sick and tired of cleaning dies, and scrubbing barrels. For the time I save dealing with lead I can afford to buy plated or dry lube.
-
On my 16" LR-308 I'm running the JP low profile adj gas block with their 15" handguard. I was thinking the VTAC=JP but maybe not. Anyway it works great. Keep in mind that the handguard maybe acentric, at least for my application it was.
-
OK, OUshooter
How due you know? I have a Dillon 650 not put together yet with case feeder. If not dry media, then what?
Seems like no matter how much I sift there are always a few kernels of media that make their way into the feeder tube, or rain down onto the shell plate and cause issues.
Since I got a liquid system figured out, I threw out all my corncob and walnut. I can process a lot more brass in less time.
-
The opinions presented are only mine and its free so you get what you pay for.
1) Dummy rounds are for die setup only.
2) The extra weight in the mags for practice is negligible next to technique.
3) Finger placement on the mag/bullet depends on division. I shoot limited and unless my fingers grow another 1" I will never be able to touch the bullet.
4) never and I mean never.....ever mix live ammo with "dummy" ammo. By mix I mean live and dummy should never be in the same range bag together. It only takes a split second to make a mistake.
5) dry firing an empty chamber on a modern centerfire weapon will have one outcome....better trigger control. my G35 and LR308 have 1000's of dry fire snaps.
-
I have to concur with the others. Clean brass is happy brass. As long as the flash hole is clear and the primer fully seats, then primer pocket cleanliness is nothing to worry about.
I forgot to add one thing. When it comes to tumbling if you are going to use a case feeder stay away from dry media. Ask me how I know.......
-
I would tend to agree with the "ranking" of the primers. The only addition would be the Tula primers. In my experience their spp are "harder" than CCI.
Out of a 100 I will get 2 cci primers that won't light, and ~6 tula that won't light. That is out of a G35, with a decreased power striker spring.
Using Federal spp in the last 2k rounds I have never had a failure to light.
If I run the factory striker spring I have zero issues with any primer.
-
I had a local guy build me a couple for my LR-308, to use in rifle/HM 3gun. His main business is holsters, but might be worth a quick email.
-
I've got a lyman turbo twin that I picked up at the local bass pro. I really like the liquid bowl it came with, because my case feeder and ninja media don't like each other.
The tumbler is relatively quiet and after 1.5yrs of moderate use, seems to be holding up well.
-
If you are going to use jackete bullets I would recommend a Lee Facorty Crimp Die. I don't measure the crimp persay I go by what runs. Turn the crimp down enough to pass gage, then tweak as needed to run reliably. I've seen gage passing rounds that didn't run because they needed a tick more crimp.
Nose dives in the first 2 rounds
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted · Edited by OUshooter
I chased a similar issue with my new spartan, and by similar I mean exactly the same. Tried everything I could, then after a few emails to STI I ended up sending it in for work. After feed ramp work ejector tuning and a few other tweaks the thing eats empty cases.
In the end it was the gun, not the mags or ammo.