Qbert
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Posts posted by Qbert
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I have the actual first edition manual from 1998. The test gun was a Smith 686 6" and used WSP with their 125gr TC. It has loads for HP38, N100, W231, Titegroup, AA2, Bullseye, Unique, Red Dot, and 700x. Minimum OAL of 1.450". Which load(s) would you like to see?
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On 12/12/2022 at 4:09 PM, Johnny_Chimpo said:
Nitriding most certainly creates dimensional changes. Whether the change makes a difference is up to you to figure out.
Nitriding is also not a coating.
I deal with the effects of nitriding on machined parts for a living. About 99% of what's being posted as factual here is either partially or completely wrong.
So if I have the slide of my hand-fitted 1911 nitrided after being direct milled for a red dot, will the slide to frame fit (which is currently a perfect, no-movement smooth and tight fit) be affected in a negative way? Like will the fit be too tight so it binds or loosen up? I'm in AZ, so I'm sure my gunsmith will be using H&M.
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On 11/19/2022 at 7:46 PM, Twilk73 said:
I upgraded my own trigger. No trigger job needed just replaced one springs. One spring took me from 4.8 pounds stock to 2.6 pounds. If I were to polish somethings and replace a second spring at the sear I believe I could make this a 1 pound trigger. No lie! Currently with just the one spring replaced the take up is almost none existent with a really clean crisp break. Nothing in the trigger affects reliability because of the way the striker works so long as the parts return to their intended position. The only thing preventing that is broken parts.
I’ve ordered more springs to see how good I can make it ultimately I’m only after a 2.5 pound trigger for the comp pistol but curiosity got me going. None of the safeties are disengaged. And that’s the best part. I’ve learned a tone on the function of this pistol. If the sear were to break and the firing pin came forward there is a safety in place to prevent the striker from meeting the bullet. This gun is very underrated, the designs are genius.
Which spring did you replace and which spring did you replace it with? That's great news!
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On 5/25/2022 at 5:10 PM, Farmer said:
Put 100 primers in the flipper tray and set it on the bench. Grab a primer tube that drags another along by the clip and drops it on the bench and you watch it bounce and land right on the tray flipping it onto the floor. Get down on your hands & knees and pick them all up and put back in the flipping tray. Set the tray on your loading stool because it’s close, stand up, lose your balance, grab the stool and give the seat a Spin flinging the primers all over again. Swear loud enough to scare the neighbors, grab a beer and go mow the lawn.
Hahaha, I could totally envision that perfectly in my mind. Wait, was your story a repressed memory of my own experience?!
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Thanks, HC
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It is as reliable as any other quality semi auto pistol on the market. I'm not very fond of the grip texture, but the gun sure shoots nice and flat. If mine was optic ready and had larger-capacity mags, I'd compete with it in a heartbeat. It's close to Glock 17 size, so not the most conceal-friendly pistola, but it will serve you well. Replacement parts may be an issue.
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On 6/4/2022 at 11:15 AM, HammerCock said:
Hey, found this thread, wanted to chime in...
I just put a 19 rd mec gar cz 75 (oem) mag into my archon type b, unmodified, worked flawlessly for 50 rds. slide lock and all.
How did it fit/stick out at the bottom of the grip?
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Why would the 40 spring be 2lbs less force than the 9mm and 10mm?
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I really like my Q4SF also. Extremely nice shooting pistola, especially with a red dot and the Competition trigger spring by Sprinco (sold by Stoeger Pro Shop.
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What's wrong with the stock striker?
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I have a 4" SF and it is one of the most mechanically precise-shooting pistols I've ever owned, even though it isn't built very tight (especially the slide to frame fit). It balances well and the trigger is good, although shamefully not as good as a box-stock Canik's trigger. C'mon Walther....the stupid Canik is a flippin' Turk COPY, and they outdo your venerable company in trigger qualities?
I haven't competed with it, but with a Holosun 507C on top, it really shoots nice and I can see it being a competitive platform.
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My experience is not the same as Lee Blackman's. I think it has a nice recoil impulse and shoots flat.
That said, the trigger isn't as nice as I had hoped for (but doesn't seem to hurt me too much when hosing), I don't care for the grip texture, and it DOES seem a bit over-sprung. Mine was made in 2019 with a Hungarian slide. -
What Farmer said.
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In 1998 when I got my first Witness, I read it wrong and so I've always called it the "Mighty TANG-FOE!!!!" Always emphatically and while holding it up like Excaliber freshly pulled out of the stone.
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44 minutes ago, Bonusfrag said:
The service is listed in their website. $125 + additional shipping insurance if you want it. Pretty reasonable.
Thanks. Did you have them re-coat the milled area or leave it raw?
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Looks great! How much did it cost, if you don't mind me asking?
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I just talked to Zach at Walther and he told me that now only the match and target pistols will come with test targets.
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A guy told me that his Q5 SF Match and Q4 SF didn't come with test targets. I thought all Walther pistols came with test targets?
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Following this thread because I also have a Kimber Custom Classic from 1998 that has a rear sight that won't move. Trust me, Thor's hammer couldn't budge this thing. It must have been forged from the MIM hinge pins from hell's gate.
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Jagerwerks has a vested interest in re-coating the slide. They left out a lot of information about that slide. But thanks for sharing that info.
Fortunately I live in the driest place in the country and I don't sweat a ton.
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So I acquired a Glock slide that was milled for an RMR and it was never re-coated. I want to start carrying the G19 with this slide, but am a little concerned about rust under the optic.
I don't care about aesthetics for the most part. Can I just spray the raw area with Aluma-Hyde II (or something else you guys recommend)? I'd rather not pay $80 to have my whole slide refinished and wait several weeks as well. I do like doing things right, but if a little spray-and-bake on the affected area will do the trick, I'm all about that. -
Thanks, jubi! You're the man!!!
Have you found this setup to be comparable to the Redding Comp Seater (if you have used both)?
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4 hours ago, jubi351 said:
I have this setup on my press. Should be using 044144 seating die and the micrometer is 044090. Make sure to remove the lock collar and rubber spacer from the seating die, micrometer screws down solid to seating die.
Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
Thanks, jubi...You don't need the lock collar and spacer? What are those for if they are unnecessary?
Laser-Cast Reloading Manual
in General Reloading
Posted