Rob D

I use the Double Alpha belt and love it. It does take a little work to get stuff onto the belt since it's made for holster/pouches that fit a 1.5" belt but it's actually closer to 1.65" if you measure it. Like I said, it takes a little work, but once you cram it on there nice and tight it doesn't move. I've loved the Double Alpha. I'm not sure if this is totally correct, but I've heard the Double Alpha inner-belt is easier to put on. One of the guys I shoot with has one of each and he uses his double alpha inner for both. Also, Midway has a couple of random sizes of double alphas on sale for 20-30 bucks off if I remember right. You might check it out, I hope that's not considered advertising and is appropriate for the forum.

Awesome! I can only guess that mag-holders are even easier to make. Thanks for your info on the sight channel too, Flex. Time to get out the heat gun and see what happens. I'm sure my first one will be a frankenholster, but it's not going to make my glock look any uglier.

Very interesting. I have heard people say that they won't use anything other than OEM because as soon as you change to something else, you have to tweak several other things as well. It would seem to me, then, that changing something as critical as the connector would inevitably lead to having to change at least a few other things. Your thoughts on this would be appreciated. From what I've read and experienced, the interdependency of Glock parts mostly come from the balancing spring tensions. I've swapped through several connectors (2 Glock, Ghost, LWD) with no change whatsoever in the functioning of the gun, other than the change of the actual trigger pull. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

That's some awesome info! I've been thinking about doing this lately, but couldn't find a good video. I could afford to screw up a lot of $10 sheets of kydex before I pay for a single decent holster. Phudd, can you give me any details as to how did the front-sight channel on your 2011 holster?

I've had a hard time with keeping both eyes open for as long as I've been shooting pistols. I've always had to close or at least squint my left eye to keep from seeing double back sights. I tried the tape trick last weekend and shot the match of my life! I came in 5th in the production division out of 18 I think, which is a HUGE improvement from my first match back in april where I placed dead last. I'm still psyched about how well it went. Thanks to everyone on this thread and the linked one fo the advice. I'm shooting with both eyes open and one eye taped from now on.

You can just install it in the reverse order. Put down the front, then put the rear on top. Tack down the tabs with super glue or the black CA that I sell. It won't budge until you peel it off. I was planning on modifying the G17/22/34 backstraps soon anyway, so what I'll do on the next run is make the tabs as long as the G21 so that the "reverse option" is more solid. Good feedback! Thank you! Thanks for the tip. I'll try it that way with my second set.

That's good to know. I noticed he had the glue for sale but the guy that originally recommended it to me didn't say anything about it. I've heard nothing but awesome things about Trugrip so I think I'll order some glue and use it to put on my second set. I think if I glued the tape to the ride side of the grip, the ripple effect I'm getting from my right hand pushing into the botton right corner of the backstrap might not occur. I think I'll save my soldering iron for soldering stuff, at least for now.

I was just wondering if I could get a few opinions as to the advantages and relative disadvantages of using a sandpaper type grip tape as opposed to actually stippling the grip. I have Trugrip installed on my gun, but I've noticed it gets coated in dead skin at some of the main contact points and becomes less grippy (Botton right of the backstrap where my strong hand contacts). I've also noticed the tape starting to peal up, not on the edges, but in ripples as the force of my hand pushes it around the grip. Before anyone asks, yes I did follow the instructions when installing it, very carefully. I cleaned the surfaces twice and made sure to roll over all the edges to seal them. Anyway, I've been reading up on the home stippling jobs lots of guys are doing to their 2011's and am getting curious. Any thoughts?

Polished up my stock connector and trigger bar with the dremel and I have to say it's smoother than it ever was with the ghost. The over-travel is slightly more, but it's nothing significant. I went ahead and ordered a LWD connector to see how I like it. Vanek kit looks nice, but it's too pricey for me at this point. I ended up swapping out my 6lb trigger return spring for a 5lb because the 6lb wouldn't let the trigger come forward far enough to engage the trigger safety after cycling. I definitely have some practice ahead of me, but I'm so hungry for improvement right now that even dry fire practice is exciting.

That is the very thinking that starts folks on the journey. Which might be fine if that is where they ended up. Often, instead of them arriving in high-performance glock'ville, we see them over on this boat: I don't want the front falling off and I DEFINITELY don't want to sacrifice reliability as that is the very reason I switched to a glock from an STI Spartan that I couldn't get to run. So what would you guys suggest for making my glock trigger as nice as it can be without sacrificing reliability? Polish up the stock parts?

The CR Speed Versa Mag Pouches are within the 2" limit for production. I like those because they'll work with just about any magazine so you don't have to worry about buying new mag holders if you switch guns.

I'm using blade-tech double mage holders because I didn't know better than to order doubles when I started shooting. Some guy has been selling them on ebay for $20 a pop if you want to get something for cheap. That being said, 4 CR Speed Versa pouches are on my christmas list. I like the idea that I wont have to buy new ones if I ever switch guns.

Good point. Maybe I shouldn't judge it off of the sound. I'll put some rounds through it tomorrow and see how it does. I think the overtravel stop on the ghost causes the trigger bar to push the connector outward, pushing the angle of the L on the connector past 90 degrees away from the trigger housing. Maybe the angle change was making it harder for the bar to slip past the little flange on the end? Again, I'm no expert.

I appreciate the thread drift as I pretty well started it, but back to my original post. My new guide rod and springs came in the mail today. I put in a reduced weight striker spring and a wolff trigger return spring that tightened up the trigger pretty well, but I'm having a little trouble with the new rod and recoil spring. I got the LWD stainless guide rod and a 14lb wolff recoil spring. I didn't know whether to order a round wound wolff spring or a flat wound ISMI, but the guide rod said it would work with both so I got the wolff since I had heard good things about their springs. When I work the slide, I can hear the spring creeking and clicking inside the gun, almost as if it's catching on something. Anybody have any experience with these springs binding up? The spring came with a washer to install on the guide rod to keep it captive, and I noticed the spring sticks out from the side of the washer about 1/16" on one side because it's sort of wrapped around the guide rod like a helix. Since that's the end that actually fits into the muzzle end of the slide, I didn't think it would matter, but I'm no expert. I'm back to my factory rod and recoil spring and feeling bummed about spending $ on parts that don't seem to help anything. Was the "round wound" spring my mistake? any suggestions?

The trigger connector question no longer applies to me either. I cleaned my gun last night, and after putting it back together noticed that my trigger pull was getting heavier almost with every shot. Took the gun apart and looked it over, then reassambled it. The first few trigger pulls were normal then it started getting really heavy again. Swapped out the ghost rocket for my original glock connector and it fixed the problem. I'm no gunsmith, and I'm not SURE the ghost rocket caused the problem, but swapping it out definitely fixed it.

So that thread states that trigger connector swaps are illegal? And Mr. Vanek is manufacturing trigger kits that have been approved as "Production" legal. Sounds like we're getting mixed responses. If trigger connector swaps are illegal, then I think about 2/3 of people shooting glocks are breaking the rules. I've always heard connector swaps are ok as they fall under the "exchange of minor components" rule, but that trigger jobs that involve moving the trigger on the bar or putting in overtravel/pretravel stops with set screws are illegal. Now I'm starting to wonder.

Sounds like a plan. So far I've liked my ghost trigger connector, but I've only compared it to the factory 3.5# that came in the gun. I've heard good things about the ghost because it has the built in over-travel stop, but I may need to try some others.

Has nothing to do with the post but love the Hogan's Alley avatar.....that brought back memories of the old nintendo with the gun attachment playing hogans alley and duck hunter, LOL, ah the good ol days..... Ha ha, thanks. I really want to take an old NES zapper and put a C-more with a stainless mount on it, and maybe a mag well and some grip tape, then take a picture of THAT for my avatar. I think it would be hilarious if I could put it all together.

sounds like I'll be fine as long as I avoid the stuff that's made specifically to be heavy. Is there any advantage to going with steal over an aftermarket polymer rod aside from the slight weight?

Hi all. I've been reading a lot, but this is my first time posting on the forum. That being said, if the information I'm looking for is already posted somewhere, please point me that way. I've searched but haven't found it. I'm shooting a glock 34 in production division, and am thinking about replacing the guide rod and recoil spring. Does anybody know of a good combination that wont push my weight up over the "2oz over listed weight" limit. So far my gun has only been modified by the addition of: Warren Tactical Sights Trugrip Ghost "Rocket" 3.5# Trigger Connector I would also love to get rid of the slack-up stage in my trigger, but from what I understand you can't do that and still be legal for production. Thanks in advance for your help!