Spray_N_Prey
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Posts posted by Spray_N_Prey
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so where's the best place to get some SC brass? I can't find any place that has it in stock.
Thanks guys soooo much for the wealth of info. It's much apprieciated.
Shawn G.
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Well at first glance the only difference I see between 38 super and 38 super comp is one is rimless, the other has a small rim, but except for that I don't see much difference between all the different calibers. Could someone educate me.
38 super
38 super comp
38 TJ
38 super auto
9x21
and also if a gun is setup for 38 super comp, what do you have to do to shoot 38 super through it?
thanks,
Shawn G.
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that's kinda the theme i've heard from my gunsmith. Old Kimbers or new Trojans.
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Ok I get a huge discount from Kimber for taking their training and nothing from STI. I have a chance to sell my para 1911 (never even shot it in a match after hearing about power extractor problems)
So if you guys had to choice, either a STI Trojan 5" or ANY Kimber. If Kimber, which model.
Educate me guys.
Shawn G.
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yeah i'm going to say Limited 6 (revolver). it really does test your skills. I do agree with John Z Sr though, it does suck because it's usually only me shooting revolver. But I have came in 3rd and 4th overall (local matches only) and it does put a BIG smile on my face to beat some of the local "limited" shooters with a wheelie
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Well after falling in love with the smell of true blue out of an open gun, I thought "why not with a 9mm minor" It does say that it's great for lead 9mm bullets but haven't seen anybody loading with this yet.
what do some of you guys think?
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1.130 for glocks and 147 works good.
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i'm just wanting something in the 130 PF range. By judging those 115 grain bullets, this should be a real softy. was even thinking about trying it for 40 S&W???
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well I came across somebody's reloads that were being ran with HS-6 and they were extremely soft shooters. I wonder if anybody here has used this load, I know HS-6 is good for comp'd guns but haven't seen much about non-comp'd guns.
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Definitely take the S80 out and use the spacer,I even polished the side of the spacer that rubs the sear and hammer. I lost about 12oz of my trigger pull weight.
what spacer? my gunsmith took out 2 pieces that were attached to the hammer (somewhere in there) and the plunger and spring.
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now no fighting boys, hehehe
I was just worried that my new gun wasn't going to be "legel" and it was bothering me. I am glad it's ok and the trigger does feel much lighter.
Happy new years all....
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If a single stack 1911 has a plunger safety(series80) and it's taken out, is this gun still competition legal?
Thanks,
Shawn G.
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no there's like a BIG gap from the magwell extended past the front strap.
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Ok just finished up and love the magwell except for the major gap in the front of the magwell. Does anybody know why it's there or what's up with it?
Thanks,
Shawn G.
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Well I took it out today and was very surprised on how well it shot and cycled very nice. I had zero issues so far, but only ran 8 mags through it (it's snowing and cold, for gods sake).
If anybody can back up the claim that the 45 power extractor runs fine, it sure would make me sleep better at night.
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Well I hope so. I should have just saved and bought a trojan, but I was able to trade this straight across for my Taurus PT1911 and the gun has had 1 box of shells through it. I work at a gun shop so that helped also...
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Ok I didn't know this then but now i'm reading about the power extractor being a POS and not working. Well is there any updates or news about this or do I now own a turd?
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Ok bought this SG used (barely) it looks brand new. It was going to be my home protection gun and the 22" mark I was the competition gun.
Well it started out jamming a round half way out of the tube, I had to get a screwdriver to get it free. After that it was running fine for about the first box or so. I did run about 6 3" magnum rounds through the red (light) piston before I remembered to chance it out. It then ran fine with the other piston and I wanted to use up some 1oz crap I had laying around so I put the red piston back in and it wouldn't cycle crap. It even wouldn't cycle the 1 1/8 ounce loads after that. So I put the heavy piston back in and it still wouldn't cycle 1 1/8 loads but would cycle 00 buckshot.
Do these shotguns get that dirtied up that fast or did I damage the piston or do I need to look at sending it back to FN?
Also could someone give me some pointers on how much to lube and where.
Thanks,
Shawn G.
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just curious, this mod won't affect the reliability any will it? What does something like this run?
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man I really love these guns. Now I need to know all the "cool kid" mods for them. I think I like the 18" better than the 22" so far. It makes for a better HD gun than a Mossberg 500!!!!
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well you guys weren't much help so I had to buy both !!!!!
I bought a brand new 22" for comp and a gently used 18" for home protection and so far I love em (and I work for an authorized benelli dealer).
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well I was text'd about me being the 1,000,000 poster and just couldn't believe it and then I got text'd by another friend who told me that i won a Dillon 550 and all day long I was telling people at work how I won a Dillon 550 and then I came home and found out that it was between the top 3, talk about feeling like an idiot! LOL
i'm sure i'm going to get razzed on that one for a while, maybe nobody reads this forum......
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couple questions here.
1. if you reload 38 specials with the same load data that you use for 38 short colt, will the velocity go up, down or stay the same? since there is going to be more case room.
2. could anybody chime in on using Solo 1000 for 38 caliber loads? I am currently using lead and have heard that Solo 1000 would be the best powder.
3. is 38 short colt loads really that much faster to load in an 8 shot then 38 special?
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vote vote vote
9 Major rounds won't chamber or guage
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
i saw your video, it looks to me like your battling the bulge. The lee factory crimp die is NOT that close to the shellplate, if your resizer is that far off, your not resizing the bottom part of the brass, try lowering your resizing die. I was told to lower it until a piece of paper barely doesn't rip when you have the press handle all the way down.
Note: unscrew the deprimer and take it out, take a small sheet of paper and put it between the die and shellplate and adjust until the paper barely slides without tearing.
BTW get rid of the Lee factory crimp die. you'll thank me later.