Spray_N_Prey
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Posts posted by Spray_N_Prey
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Running to get a piece of skater tape for my Para (with the smoooooooth front strap) I don't know what I was thinking but was thinking that was an illegal mod (yes I know better).
hmmm.......................................
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Hello: If you want a 45 look at the STI Spartan. I must be sounding like a broken record by now for saying that. I guess I just gave away my age buy talking about broken records I would like the Trojan more if they had a checkered front strap. My Spartan I am using skate tape for now untill I get the time to checker the front strap myself. If you can get a great deal on the Trojan I would get it. If not buy the Spartan. Thansk, Eric
I thought the Trojans did have a checkered front strap?
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ok great info so far but let me change the question some.
I am leaning to 45acp - why should I go with 40 S&W?
Reloading is NOT an issue. cost is though......
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Ok I thought that I wanted the STI Trojan 45acp, but have had a friend of mine trying to pursaude me to get a 40S&W. Here's what I know so far, and reloading isn't an issue, I have 2 650s one set up for small primers the other is large primers.
1. 40 S&W from what i've heard has mag / feeding problems
2. 40 magazines seat better when full (8 round)
3. 40 bullets / brass are cheaper.
Ok let the debating begin!!!!
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Well I just finished the last of it. I did use MSword and powerpoint. Thanks to all for the help, special thanks to NIK - great guy.
Shawn Ginardi
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Well i'm having a hard time trying to find the right software to use to make the overhead stage design. I'm needing something that has the top view of a stage with
someway to use lines to measure out the stage. I'm having a heck of a time and i'm down to my final.
Thanks in advance,
Shawn G.
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Ron, I'll only be able to attend if YOU PROMISE no more of that sh$t from last year. My shoes are still soaked from that match, LOL.
Will try and make it this year again.
Shawn Ginardi
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damn i'm must be "old school" give me some Iron Maiden "aces high" or "flight of Icarus" and i'm ready to go.
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Ok well my open gun has been running perfect until last Sunday. I had like 5 light primer strikes. I retrieved all the unfired brass and found out that all the primers were from a pack of CCI Benchrest small rifle primers that I had laying around.
Could it be the gun was dirty or something else or could it just be that those primers might be too hard?
Thanks,
Shawn G.
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well I talked to Gary @ Dillon and we found out that it was the primer punch assembly that has been causing me all of these problems, it's actually raised up above being flush. Parts in the mail. THanks again Dillon (they have had to send enough parts to replace). That's why I swear by Dillon Precision, not only a GREAT product but a SUPER GREAT customer service, the best I have EVER dealt with.
Thank you sooooo much Dillon Precision (and of course all you guys on this forum),
Shawn Ginardi
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how do you check the spring plunger assembly?
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Ok i've snapped a few index assemblies (black plastic housing) and finally think that it's a primer that is getting caught on the shellplate while it is turning. I don't know what else it could be. Is there any adjustment that would allow the primer to set deeper from the shellplate? i've contacted dillon and each time we thought we had it fixed.
when it locks up, all you have to do is apply a hair bit of pressure to the opposite side (where you put the bullet on at) and it indexes fine. but it's a PITA.
I've taken the press apart many times and cleaned and lubed everything and even installed the complete new primer assembly that I had as a backup with no change.
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Man I really love these guys.
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well I know I just remove the bell on 9 and 40 but with an open gun do most of you guys crimp with 38 super
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ok i'm dealing with the ambi safety on my new gun and thought I would make a few rounds tonight. Do you guys crimp with 38 super or just remove the bell like 9mm and 40????
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no I didn't get the brazos custom. I tried 3 times and said I would take it and kept getting bump'd down the line.
It's an SV frame / STI slide.
Ok if you apply some pressure to the trigger while the safety is engaged and then take your finger off of the trigger THEN take the safety off, the hammer follows. I had a guy look at it today that knows 1911's and said the sear didn't look bad. He was wondering if the pin the holds the sear might be the problem, he said it had a little play to it and was wondering if that could cause it. He didn't know if they made an oversized pin???
I'm leaning towards the safety (at least I hope so). This really has me down in the dumps
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No u can click the safety up and down 1000 times and the hammer won't fall only when u squeeze the trigger when the safety is on and then when u drop the safety hammer follows
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ok somebody help here, I had the hammer fall a few times after dropping the safety. It's only if you touch the trigger while the safety is on and then click the safety off. Can someone chime in here please.
No only if u pull the trigger while safety is on then take safety off while not touching trigger
Thanks,
Shawn G.
While just touching the trigger or pulling the trigger while disengaging safety?
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ok somebody help here, I had the hammer fall a few times after dropping the safety. It's only if you touch the trigger while the safety is on and then click the safety off. Can someone chime in here please.
Thanks,
Shawn G.
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This may sound very remedial and you may have already tried it, but at this point I would take the press down and get the dillon manual out and completely setup the press from scratch.
If you have done that already, maybe ask an experience shooter/reloader at the club to come by and see if they see a problem either in the press or your process.
I have loaded 40,000+ rounds of 9major without a hitch (mixed range brass) and have used a Lee FCD die for 35k of those. I also use the redding seater. Without being there with you or observing the press I don't know how else to advise you.
I only load to 1.17 not too long. Don't be afraid to shorten up a bit and see what happens.
It is also not out of the realm that your chamber may be just a tad tight, how do factory rounds chamber for you?
Good luck, Craig
Now that you mention it I did have a lone wolf barrel that no matter what would not chamber a round that would go into an EGW case gauge. Maybe the chamber is your issue.
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I bought the Lee FCD because I was getting 1 to 2 rounds per 100 that didn't chamber. I was told by a good friend, not to cover up the problem (with using those dies) and fix the problem (re-adjust the dies) and never have had a problem since. I did however have to pull the dies off of the toolhead and start from scratch. Sometimes you just can't figure it out right and it's easier to start over.
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Well I added a FCD to my 9mm and 40 (but I do shoot lead) and went to a semi-major match. My ammo was perfect before this. I couldn't get through one stage without my bullets tumbling at 5 yards. Couldn't figure it out, someone told me they would never use those dies because it squashes everything and they didn't think it was a good idea, went home, changed dies and never had that problem again.
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ok i'm going down the dark path. I told myself I would never consider shooting open until I made A class in production, well I made A class in Limited first, then L10 and revolver and finally in Production, so I bought me a barely (3000 rounds) used open gun. Now I always here about people using magnum pistol or small rifle primers and am totally new to open so feed my knowledge.
Thanks guys,
Shawn G.
P.S. I will probably be posting a lot of newb questions on here but you guys (BE.COM) are the best and I truly look foward to being educated.
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what sucks is the gun store I work at has about 2500 pieces of 38 super +P brand new that has been sitting there for years and I could probably get a killer deal on it.
Too bad I need SC
Looking for a STI Trojan
in 1911-style Pistols
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WOW i might have to give this Para gun rights a chance, now that I stippled the front strap with some fine skater tape. What a difference.
keep the debate going............