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High Lord Gomer

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Posts posted by High Lord Gomer

  1. This came to me today as I was working and I got to thinking how does it work if a portion of a fault line extends past the edge of a wall or if two fault lines that are perpendicular to one another have one end extending past the outer edge of the other? Is the limit the edge of the one line or the length of the other?...

    ...While the intent might be to restrict the ability to engage the target, leaving any portion of the wall or fault line outside the intended shooting area leaves it available to be used by the shooters without penalty.

    We sometimes have fault line intersections where one extends past the other. Our fault lines are 2x4s ripped in half lengthwise and most are 8' long. Since not all shooting areas end up being some multiple of 8 feet we sometimes end up with part of the fault line extending past the other. I have always interpreted it to be that anything beyond the intersection of fault lines (including the fault lines themselves) are out of bounds.

  2. Interesting question. I searched the rules for "hard cover" and "activat" and could find nothing that would prohibit this. Normally any target that is intended to be shot is also a scoring target, though.

    That does also bring up the possibility of having to shoot a string to activate a target..that could make things tough.

  3. Without an activator to start it, no real way to make it an optional target since it won't disappear. If you do want to give options, I would suggest giving someone the choice of an long or tight shot near a no-shoot versus a closer/easier shot that they have to travel farther to make.

  4. I have home made flashing targets that have a 6" or 8" plate at the bottom of a piece of 5/8" threaded rod. A hit to the plate will swing it enough to show the full card that is behind. A hit to the threaded rod will cause it to wiggle and swing slightly. I warn people ahead of time and do not call those as hits.

    It is amazing how many people show up with 50 (or even 25) yard zeroes and don't know why they are hitting way above the plate I have hung at 100 yards. My threaded rod gets hit almost as much as the plate.

  5. If the match is a USPSA match:

    MG Shotgun 4.4.1.1

    Frangible targets must break with a visible piece missing or separated from the original target to be counted for score. A fixed frangible target that falls from a hit on its holder will be considered a hit.

    ...and...

    9.1.6

    Engaging a frangible, knock-down or swinging style target but not breaking it (one BB hole is a break), knocking it down or causing the target to react will result in a 10 second penalty per target. R.O. may call hits.

  6. It would take more than a chime to set you guys straight...I'm thinking more like a gong!

    Dewey and Mark are designing the 2 full 3-gun stages so I'll let them disclose their round counts.

    I cna say there will be less than 80 rounds of rifle, less than 80 rounds of pistol, and close to 50 rounds of birdshot. No slugs this time and no steel targets for rifle so if you have steel core rifle ammo you need to burn, this would be a good day to do it.

    Sign up at 8:30, shooters meeting at 8:45, and start shooting at 9:00. We plan to be done around 2:00 this time so we aren't making any arrangements for lunch. If you are slender like me and need to eat before 2:00, bring some snacks. $20 entry, $10 for Pinetucky members and active duty military.

  7. It is more likely that the sear is not engaging (or failing to hold the striker rearward) than it would be for the striker to fail to release the sear.

    The click should not happen as the sear engages (grabs) the striker but rather as you are pulling the slide back the lower portion of the striker will move across the top of the sear and you should hear it click once it gets past the sear and the sear pops back up. Once that has happened can you try very slowly letting the slide back forward and see if you can hear/feel the striker slip past the sear?

    If you do that slowly enough the sear might be able to hold the striker enough to successfully dry-fire.

    Another thing to check would be with the slide off does the sear drop down completely to release the striker when you pull the trigger?

  8. What sort of symptoms?

    Does it work when dry-fired but just not go far enough forward to ignite the primer?

    Does the sear not catch the striker when the slide is racked?

    Does the sear not release the striker when the trigger is pulled?

    Before you put the plastic back on the slide can you push the striker far enough forward to have the firing pin exposed in the breach face?

    (I know..all questions and no answers :) )

  9. I have around 6k rounds in my m&p 9 (2 years with the gun)

    Springs are cheap, worth doing every year or two.

    there was a brass stuck in the chamber with a another round under it..

    Failure to extract...I have been having them lately and will be sending mine to Apex for their Failure Resistant Extractors. I have tried to get mine out and failed miserably.

    last saturday I got a failure to feed, I had to remove the mag, reinsert it, tap the mag , the slide and finally clear the chamber(a live round)...the mag had 3 rounds total.

    If it was just a failure to feed the chamber would have been empty. If it did chamber a round but the trigger did nothing, that could be a failure of the sear to reset. Does yours have the large or small sear return spring? I had many instances of failures to reset before I switched all of mine out to the newer, larger sear return springs (actually have to swap out the sear housing blocks).

  10. With Apex sears, I don't notice the extra power striker springs. Since the stock sear does push the striker back more I can see where the trigger pull would be heavier with an extra power striker spring. I consider the extra power striker spring, Apex sear, and Apex USB to be standard for all of my M&Ps.

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